Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
I wonder if one of the oil pump tubing nipples is loose and seeping oil? Those guys at Westside are really a pleasure to work with, great guys.
1995 Seadoo SP: Oil Leak
- Thread starter KyleW2
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KyleW2
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That is what I am wondering. It is just odd that both lines have oil in them, so clearly some oil is flowing even while the jet ski is shut off. I’m just wondering if that is also the cause of my external oil leak into the hull. I added a valve to the rotary line this morning to shut off oil flow temporarily just to rule the rotary valve completely out, once I rule it out I will just leave the valve on. I have no issue replacing the oil pump (Don’t really want to premix it), but don’t want to spend money on something unnecessary.
Yesiam
Active Member
OMG. Is this really a conversation going on in June 2019? NO WAY! REALLY?? Cuz i have just noticed my 96 SPI had a leak too (but mines green) It is either oil leak or the notorious green monster has leaked from my GREY OEM fuel lines? To be honest, my ski hasnt been ran in 5 yrs, so i dont remember what color my oil was. I know it was marine grade n expensive -- like $40/gal when i bought it in early 2000s n i think had pic of jetski on front. Is oil always reddish or can it be green? Dont laugh-- I'm a 48 yo chik -- and always taken my ski to shop to be repaired. Now Im thinking of selling it, but dont want to spend hundreds of $$ n alot of work to make less of profit. So trying to DIY w help from neighbor shade tree mechanic guys-- so might be Oct 2010 b4 it is ready!!! Oh n what is this 4TECH everyone is talking about? My ski btw is a 4-Stroke-- just in case there are both kinds of SPIs.
So ANY HELP, PICS, SOUND ADVICE, or EXPERIENCE FROM YOUR OWN PAST DISGRUNTELED FIX IT ORDEALS (w pics n arrows to exactly what ur talking about), will be greatly appreciated and considered ur good deed for the day). Some people go to church to show others they are a good person, others spend time HELPING those in need-- giving FREE advice to a stranger they will never meet in person, merely out of the goodness of their heart-- wo any compensation, other than a big THANK YOU for YOUR ADVICE n SUGGESTION was the 1 SOLUTION that a fellow water warrior needed to get back on the water. And YOU ALMIGHTY KNOWLEDGEABLE ONE, can crack open a cold beer n say, "NAILED IT (AGAIN)!"
And thus the cycle continues...
You can either spend your Sundays in church listening about God, or you can go to the lake, and enjoy His gifts!! Your Choice...
Yesiam
Active Member
I say it is gravity. Everything gets pulled down eventually. No? Lol
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
The current version of Seadoo full synthetic API-TC LOW ASH oil is red, most of the boat engine TCW-3 ASHLESS oils are blue or green, this blue/green color in a seadoo could be bad news due to TCW-3 contains no metal salts lubricant, it is a hydrazine based detergent package for low temperature engine and Seadoo's tend to run hotter like air cooled 2-strokes.
Before red, Seadoo oil was natural color, like yellowish. I don't think I've ever seen Seadoo API-TC LOW ASH oil the color of blue or green, I have seen LOW ASH in other brands this color.
Warning Danger Will Robinson, never mix TCW and API-TC, it will congeal and foul your oil injection system.
Before red, Seadoo oil was natural color, like yellowish. I don't think I've ever seen Seadoo API-TC LOW ASH oil the color of blue or green, I have seen LOW ASH in other brands this color.
Warning Danger Will Robinson, never mix TCW and API-TC, it will congeal and foul your oil injection system.
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
Agree, pre-mixing is undesirable in about every way, we no longer live in the 50's!
KyleW2
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KyleW2
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Think just the washers need to be replaced, or all new banjo fittings?
KyleW2
Well-Known Member
Okay, did a lot of reading last night and found where you are talking about with the check valves in the banjo fittings. So I will need complete new banjo fittings to stop that issue, or to replace the pump and hope they don’t have slow leaks also.
I have also ruled out that it is the rotary valve leaking. With the flow of oil turned off, the level has not dropped in the line and the leak continues.
If I rule out the rotary valve and have ruled out all the oil lines leaking, that only points to the pump as my source of the leak. So I guess it is time to replace the pump. On this model, is it as simple as pulling the two bolts off and it sliding out and sliding a new one in, or do I have to take the cover off, unbolt the plastic gear, then remove the oil pump screws and pump?
I have also ruled out that it is the rotary valve leaking. With the flow of oil turned off, the level has not dropped in the line and the leak continues.
If I rule out the rotary valve and have ruled out all the oil lines leaking, that only points to the pump as my source of the leak. So I guess it is time to replace the pump. On this model, is it as simple as pulling the two bolts off and it sliding out and sliding a new one in, or do I have to take the cover off, unbolt the plastic gear, then remove the oil pump screws and pump?
KyleW2
Well-Known Member
So glad you are so quick to reply to these threads, I knew I was forgetting something!! I appreciate all your help and advice. New o ring for both the intake cover and oil pump on the way as well as a new carb base gasket. Hope to have it all installed Friday and hopefully take it out for a test ride Saturday if all goes well.
Is there a particular torque for the plastic gear on the oil pump when I reassemble, or just tight?
KyleW2
Well-Known Member
Think it is necessary? I assume not because I don't see anything in the manual about it but really don't want to have to do this job again this summer. I have some Permatex Motoseal sitting around somewhere from a dirt bike if you think that will help any.
KyleW2
Well-Known Member
Good thing I have a PWC repair and parts shop local. Went ahead and replaced the inline oil filter while I was working, clipped the ends a little too much now the hose won't stretch to the oil pump. Luckily the shop near me sells OEM oil lines.
Got the new pump installed on the ski. I compared the new gasket with the old one, and the old one was definitely far more compressed. You actually could not see the seal at all when taking it off, it was practically embedded into the housing with none showing. Will report back in the morning regarding if it fixed the leak or not. I have high hopes that it did.
Got the new pump installed on the ski. I compared the new gasket with the old one, and the old one was definitely far more compressed. You actually could not see the seal at all when taking it off, it was practically embedded into the housing with none showing. Will report back in the morning regarding if it fixed the leak or not. I have high hopes that it did.
KyleW2
Well-Known Member
Still leaking. Have replaced the grommets, all oil lines, oil filter, oil pump, etc. It is still collecting underneath the engine. Engine does not smoke upon startup. What else can it be? Is it possible seal 293300023 (rotary cover o ring) could be causing the leak?
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