1995 GTX Cuts Out Stalls Full Throttle

[kauffjd3]

Hello Everyone! I am a new seadoo owner from Baltimore, MD. I am absolutely a newbie to personal watercrafts but am mechanically inclined.

Anyway I have a 1995 Bombardier GTX it idles (in and out of water), revs (in and out of water), but when you hold it at 3/4 to full throttle it cuts out and stalls. It also seems to get worse as the bike warms up.


From reading on this site here are a couple things I have noticed people talking about:

1. It does still have the grey fuel lines
2. I have no idea if the high adjustment screws were messed with, Does mine have the plastic cap everyone is talking about? (see pic, best i could do with a mirror)
3. My fuel switch is acting really weird. I have to have it on reserve even though the tank is full?
4. I cleaned the fuel filter there really wasn't anything in there
5. I pulled the plugs after it stalled in the water and they were dry with a tint of white/grey
6. I never had the carb off
7. Has new plugs and battery


Before I bought the service manual when the bike was out on the water:
- I did play around with the idle screw and the low adjustment screw (the easy one to get to). Just trying to see if any of this would fix or make it worse. Obviously it didn't do anything so I set it back to where it was.


So where do I go from here?

 

[timmyboy76]

that yuor high adjuster...

1995 GTX 657X BN-38I (SB) MAIN-132.5 PILOT-75 1.5n/s (D) 19psi - 35psi (pop-off) LOW- 1-1/4 HIGH- 1/4

 

[kauffjd3]

How do I know where my high adjuster is set now to determine if they are at 1/4 turn?

 

[kauffjd3]

Since it is cutting out and stalling should I turn the high adjustment screws counter clockwise to give it more gas?

 

[timmyboy76]

turn the settings clockwise, til it bottoms out, then using the "slot" on adjuster turn it a qrter..

Set them to factory setting, then give a try. Have you gone thru the carbs?

 

[riverrat88]

Make sure you are getting oil. If you have an pump it may be defective. I would pre-mix to be safe. Stalling at WOT is not a good thing (fuel or oil starvation) and could lead to piston failure.

 

[kauffjd3]

turn the settings clockwise, til it bottoms out, then using the "slot" on adjuster turn it a qrter..

Set them to factory setting, then give a try. Have you gone thru the carbs?

Thanks.

No I haven't had the carbs off. You think its time to pull them off and clean them?

 

[kauffjd3]

Make sure you are getting oil. If you have an pump it may be defective. I would pre-mix to be safe. Stalling at WOT is not a good thing (fuel or oil starvation) and could lead to piston failure.

Thats exactly what I am worried about. I checked the plugs and they are dry with a tint of grey/white. So it looks like it could maybe need more gas.

What is the best way to make sure it is getting oil?

Thanks!

 

[riverrat88]

Premix and put it in the tank. 40:1, for starters.

 

[kauffjd3]

Premix and put it in the tank. 40:1, for starters.

Do I need to unhook something to turn off the current oil tank? What if it is working it will get double oil?

Thanks!

 

[timmyboy76]

dont think, he's saying to switch to premix, just run some oil in tank for good measure.

Yup, pull the carbs and go thru them, then when together, make sure, thte notches line up on the injection pump, and when at idle, hold the pump arm, all the way open, to "re-bleed" the oil system..

 

[kauffjd3]

I'll pull them off tonight. Do I need to buy a carb rebuilt kit? Or tearing it apart and cleaning the filters and jets be good enough? Hopefully no gaskets tear on me.

Thanks

 

[timmyboy76]

ypu, break them down, and clean them, jets, filter..etc.

 

[kauffjd3]

Soo..

The first thing I did was take off the fuel selector switch and ran the reserve line straight into the fuel filter. I blew out the fuel selector switch with the air compressor and very little air was coming through.

Second I tightened both lower adjustment screws and turned them out 1 1/4 turns (they both seemed to be ok but just wanted to make sure).

Third I tightened the easy high speed adjustment screw (the one on the rear carb) and it must have turned in atleast 2 1/2 turns. Once it was tightened i backed it out a 1/4 turn. The high speed adjustment screw for the first carb (the one inbetween the carbs) when i went to tighten it it wouldn't move. Here it was clear in. So I backed it out 1/4 turn.


So I hooked up the hose, started the bike and turned the water on. I don't know if I am just imagining it or not but it seems to rev 100% better and after I let it get warmed up a little bit I held the throttle to 3/4 to full throttle and i could hear it bouncing off the rev limitor. I never heard that before. But I can't really tell because running it on teh trailer before it hesitated and stumbled but it would't shut off like it does in the water.

So i'm excited but the real test is to get it back in the water this weekend. I will let you know how it works out. Thanks again!

Justin

 

[kauffjd3]

Also I did pull the plugs before I started it and they were blackish. I'm going to pick up 2 more new plugs and put them in so i can get a good reading.

Do you think I still should mix some oil in the gas?

Justin

 

[kauffjd3]

Still wont go above 3/4 throttle... didn't stall just a constant studder/fall on its face

- adjusted the low screws to 1 1/4
- adjusted the high screws to 1/4
- bypassed the fuel switch
- Plugs are black but not wet


Where to go from here? Does it need more adjusting or do the carbs need cleaned?

Thanks!

 

[timmyboy76]

kauff...think ur get'n closer to hav'n fun. Need to pull the carbs, if that crap was in the selector, then i'd say, its in the inline filter and inside carb/s.

Another thing, pull the baffle unit out of fuel tank, and inspect those lines. Not sure what yr, they stop using the fuel line inside, but, maybe they fell off/corroded.

If carbs, baffle..etc, all get cleaned/check out good, AND still have problem, disconnect the red wire from rectifier, then give another try.

 

[kauffjd3]

Thanks, thats what I thought you were going to say.

Do I need to order a carb kit? Or if I pull it apart and clean it will everything seal when I put it back together?

 

[timmyboy76]

just be careful pulling carbs off manifold, and when pulling carbs themselves, apart, not to rip anything...you should be good, to reuse the o-rings/gaskets then. If anything, the o-rings around the lsa/hsa and n/s )needle and seat assy), replace them, from Ace..:cheers:

 

[dm91111]

Dude.....change those grey lines. They are gummed up. If they are trashed then they wont allow the fuel to flow through them properly. At 3/4 throttle your asking for more fuel. The system cant get enough if its partially blocked. Youll need about 7 feet of 1/4 inch fueline and about 8-10 small clamps. Thats enought to do all lines except return line and vent lines which aent as crucial. Take you about an hour and supports all the other stuff you did. Otherwise your jus putting on bandaids.

Good luck

 

[kauffjd3]

First off thanks for the replies and all the help so far!

I was finally able to continue to work on the gtx tonight. I pulled the carbs and everything was going smooth until 2 phillip heads rounded out on me. The locktite did its job but the bolts weren't tough enough brake them loose. So I need to borrow my friends ez out set and see if that will remove the two bolts holding the cover on to where the filter is. I was able to pull the other cover off and take its filter out. It was completely clogged. I tried to blow in it and nothing all black. So my guess is the other one is the same way. I am soaking it right now and have been trying to clean it out with a cue tip. Slowly coming clean it might be easy to just order new filters.

I did notice the that two phillip head screws that holds the inner cover on the jets on the bottom are so tight they want to round out also. Whats the trick to getting these phillip head bolts out from this carb? On the ones I can I am putting vice grips on the head and knocking them loose but I can only do that on a few of them.

Anyway I'll go to advance auto tomorrow after work and get new fuel line and run it. Hoping to get this thing back up and running for next weekend.

I will keep you posted!

Thanks again!

 

[riverrat88]

You need an impact screwdriver.

Like this: http://autorepair.about.com/library/images/bl255a-lib.htm

 

[peirek]

If you do not have an impact screwdriver try rapping on the screwdriver with a hammer while in the screw. Now don't hit it to hard but a few clean wraps and then try to break the screw loose with some quick turns while keeping good down pressure on the screw. The secret to removing any fastener is to "break" it loose. Never put constant pressure on it to break it loose.

 

[peirek]

Another sure fire way to get a fastener loose is to heat it up but seeing this is a carb DO NOT DO THIS!

 

[cbrownstone8]

got the same thing going on i think, does it almost throw you over the handle bars it loses power that quick? I replaced all the lines, but vent, cleaned selector, rebuild carbs, and still acts up, just at a higher rpm. What rpm are you cutting out at?