I received a 95 GTX and a 94 XP form a friend that didn’t want them and only wanted the trailer from them. The guy he got them from said they haven’t run in a couple years. The XP I have running so far. The 95 GTX I’m having some trouble with. Supposedly the previous owner had the MPEM replaced on it a few years ago and it does look new and clean inside the electrical box. I replaced spark plugs and still no spark. I then checked ohms on the black wires from the stator at the connector and it checked fine. I checked spark plug wires ohms were 12K ohms. The ignition coil looked like it had never been replaced so I ordered a new one since it was an easy part to replace hoping that may fix it and I installed it today and still no spark. According to the repair manual it says no spark would be MPEM, ignition coil, or stator. I’m assuming since the MPEM was replaced already it isn’t the problem. I checked kill switch circuit and start/stop switch circuit and they tested good. What should I check or do next? Battery is brand new also.
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1995 GTX 657 is not getting spark
- Thread starter Tucker03
- Start date
No clue if it is OEM or aftermarket.
In the shop manual is that referred to as the trigger coil or does it call it something else?
artr
Well-Known Member
Read up on the Electrical section of the shop manual. There are probably resistance measurements to check the Trigger coil (Generating coil) and the mpem. I would not put 100% faith in the mpem resistance test. There are probably proprietary tools for measuring the output of the generating coil, maybe others here know some other ways to check them dynamically without the tool. The mpem should be marked with the seadoo part number you can look up in the manuals. The manual may also have pictures of it or you could look up on ebay oe google for the oem part number you find to see how it is marked. Generally the aftermarket mpems do not get favorable reviews on the forum.
Okay. I checked the resistance on the generating coil a few days ago and they checked fine. The MPEM has no identification labels that I saw on it only label was the label to show the 5amp and 15 amp fuse. I’ll look into where to get a new OEM MPEM this afternoon probably. The generating coil is behind the flywheel and the manual shows getting it off with a puller but not sure if that is needed or not?
artr
Well-Known Member
It probably is a lot of work to get to the generating coil. You said you replaced the ignition coil. There are probably resistance tests for the ignition coil also. Check the ignition coil's ground connection shorts to the battery neg terminal. Without a good ground on that coil there will be no spark.
So this one doesn’t have a ground to the battery it grounds to the ground post that the other ground wires are grounded to. The ground post for them is inside the electrical box with the ignition coil and MPEM. So it doesn’t go to the ground post on the battery from what I’ve seen. I saw a video that did have a ground wire going from the ignition coil to the negative terminal on the battery but it was a different year and model than mine. The 94 XP I have runs fine and it also doesn’t have a ground to the negative battery terminal.
artr
Well-Known Member
Use an ohmmeter and check for a short between that ground connection and battery negative post. All those grounds need to be connected at the battery negative where the battery black cable connects to the starter and engine block. If that ground connection at the ignition coil is not really at ground (because the wire is faulty or there is corrosion at connections, then the coil won't produce a spark.
Okay I will check again this afternoon but I know the battery negative cable doesn’t have any other wires connecting with it on either end. I’ll double check to make sure but I don’t think there is.
artr
Well-Known Member
All those smaller black wires are not physically connected to battery neegative. They are eventually connected to the engine block. The engine block is physically connected to battery negative by the large black cable at one of the bolts that secures the starter to the engine block. There for all those small black wires will read as a short circuit (0 ohms) to battery negative.
Oh okay. You wouldn’t happen to know where at on the engine block the smaller black wires would be connected ? Also, so if it reads 0 ohms then it’s good ? Also could I run a ground wire from the battery negative terminal straight to the ground terminal on the ignition coil to bypass the other ground circuits to see if it sparks then?
Is it possible for the trigger coil to pass resistance test but still not work if the mounting bracket is broke? And gap is to big?
I think I’m going to take that jetski to a repair shop. If I can’t figure anything else out. I only have about 2 hrs max a day to work on it and that’s not every day. I think on the other one it may need a carb rebuild from sitting for a few years so I may take that task on myself.
artr
Well-Known Member
0 ohms is good. While you could run a secondary ground I would trace back why the original wire is not providing ground.
artr
Well-Known Member
True but a lot of work to get in to see it. I would think that if you put a multimeter on the output of the trigger coil you would see either a small voltage or current fluctuation while cranking.
