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1994 Seadoo XP Oil Pump

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Latitude55

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Been working on this ski for a month now and about to reattach the carbs and I am have a problem with the oil injection part :(

I didn't take any pics so going from memory and I guess it isn't as good as it use to be

First problem was the cable guide. After losing one I got it installed but not sure which way the curve goes. Is it important which way it is placed and if so which way does the slot on the guide face?

Looking with a mirror the cable that connect to the pump just doesn't seem right as there is hardly any movement when I use the throttle and it looks like it might have a spring that is now disconnected and not sure how that is connected now.

Not sure if anyone can help me out with pics or advice on how to move foreword.
Goal was to get this ski in the water by July 4 now a month past that grrrrrrrrr

thank you in advance for any help
George

1994 SeaDoo XP
Engine 657x
Carb BN-38I(SB)
 
Give me 6 hours. I have my rv cover with carbs on and the cable installed on the bench. I'll get a picture of it when I get back home.

BTW - I have the motor taken apart because of the EXACT part(s) you are asking about. I had that elbow fall out, it caused the cable to jump out of the bracket and backed my oil pump WAY back. It took 45 minutes but the reduced oil flow destroyed the motor, the crank, both pistons, both cylinders.
 
Give me 6 hours. I have my rv cover with carbs on and the cable installed on the bench. I'll get a picture of it when I get back home.

BTW - I have the motor taken apart because of the EXACT part(s) you are asking about. I had that elbow fall out, it caused the cable to jump out of the bracket and backed my oil pump WAY back. It took 45 minutes but the reduced oil flow destroyed the motor, the crank, both pistons, both cylinders.
The damage you describe is what I am fearing with the way this pump seems to be right now. THANK YOU for you help.
 
A little late thanks to a DOT weigh station inspection...

This is off of my 94 xp 657x. The elbow AND the circlip are built to work together. How you see it is the proper way to install them. The elbow hangs down under the bracket, the circlip clips into the elbow above the bracket.

Very important part here.

In the third picture it is a close up of how the circlip clips around the elbow AND has a "finger" that locks into the groove of the elbow to keep the cable in place. THIS WAS HOW I BURNED MY MOTOR. I accidently put the wrong circlip on, it did not have the "finger". The clip I used had a smooth inner surface that allowed the clip to spin and have it's open end line up with the groove in the elbow. When they lined up it allowed the cable to hop out of the bracket. When the cable falls out of the bracket it allows the oil pump to close, cuts off the oil flow at higher throttle settings and kills a perfectly good motor in less than a tank if gas.... A 25 cent mistake cost me $700 in repairs. If you do not have the oem clip with the finger order one up.


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A little late thanks to a DOT weigh station inspection...

This is off of my 94 xp 657x. The elbow AND the circlip are built to work together. How you see it is the proper way to install them. The elbow hangs down under the bracket, the circlip clips into the elbow above the bracket.

Very important part here.

In the third picture it is a close up of how the circlip clips around the elbow AND has a "finger" that locks into the groove of the elbow to keep the cable in place. THIS WAS HOW I BURNED MY MOTOR. I accidently put the wrong circlip on, it did not have the "finger". The clip I used had a smooth inner surface that allowed the clip to spin and have it's open end line up with the groove in the elbow. When they lined up it allowed the cable to hop out of the bracket. When the cable falls out of the bracket it allows the oil pump to close, cuts off the oil flow at higher throttle settings and kills a perfectly good motor in less than a tank if gas.... A 25 cent mistake cost me $700 in repairs. If you do not have the oem clip with the finger order one up.


View attachment 55953View attachment 55954View attachment 55955View attachment 55956
THANK YOU SO MUCH these pics help out a lot.

I have the damn thing in upside down no wonder it didn't seem right lol
Yes when I was playing with the part before installing I saw that the finger had to fit into the grove but had a hell of time getting in it upside down god what a dumbass I am lol THANKS AGAIN for helping me out.
 
Sorry one more question. Where the cable connects to the pump, does that part have some type of return spring on it? When I had my hands down in there I kind of felt something like a spring wire wrapped around it but haven't been able to see it clearly.
 
The spring is attached to the arm. The end of the spring has a hook on the end to grab the arm. The arm, with the cable off, can move freely for 1/2 of it's rotation and nly starts building spring tension fir the last 1/2. They are set up so if the cable breaks the spring spins the pump around so it runs full open and saves the motor. You can see the end of the spring right near the pump alignment marks on the pump arm.
 
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Got it thank you. Going back to work on it in an hr. My carb gaskets are due to come in today. So I hope to get them back on and try to get it started. I have the water connection and understand the proper sequence or running on land. Was thinking of starting off with a premix of 40:1 since I have to check to see if the pump is working by drawing oil up those small lines. Any downside of putting in premix and having the pump function properly?
 
Sorry but another question.
Got the guide on and thought I would see how hard it would be to set the alignment marks by doing a temp attachment of the carb to the intakes (Used 2 bolts a couple of threads deep and no gasket) It appears that when the throttle cable moves the arm it does not go back to the original position. Is this because the engine is not running or do I have other problems?
 
The spring is attached to the arm. The end of the spring has a hook on the end to grab the arm. The arm, with the cable off, can move freely for 1/2 of it's rotation and nly starts building spring tension fir the last 1/2. They are set up so if the cable breaks the spring spins the pump around so it runs full open and saves the motor. You can see the end of the spring right near the pump alignment marks on the pump arm.
Thinking about this, how did you blow your engine when the cable slipped off? Shouldn't it have hone to full open?
 
No. That is the catch in this situation.

If the cable breaks the pump goes wide open.

If the cable comes out of the elbow it is still connected to the throttle linkage and the pump arm but it allows the pump to back off/go out of adjustment. It goes out of adjustment in the lean direction and starves the motor for oil.
 
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