Hi everyone, I have a 1993 spx twin carb 580, I have rebuilt the topend wsm platinum kit, great compression, rebuilt carbs, new fuel lines, new cdi box, timed the rotary valve. 147 degrees first time, 130 degrees second time. the rotary valve spins when the engine is bumped. this ski will not start but every once in awhile and run and then shut off, but that was only twice. Im at my wits end here. Anyone have any idea what in the world is keeping this thing from running? Oddly enough the ski will run with out the rotary valve and manifold off from the fuel sitting in the crank. It will run for about a minute and sound great then just shut off. Im completely lost. I have the timing wheel and timed it correctly, both 130 and 147. but I cannot get this thing to fire up whatsoever. Please any help would be appreciated.
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1993 SEADOO SPX HELP!!!! Please!!!!
- Thread starter DCL84
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JeremyD615
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What kits did you use to rebuild the carbs?
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
Are you squirting some pre-mix down the carb throats and it still won't run?
I used the genuine mikuni carb kits, and yes squirted fuel down throats of carbs with still no start. Just pulled it in garage, put new seal on rotary valve cover, all timed correctly and it fired right up and revved up. shut it off, backed it outside to run on hose and went to start ski before turning on water and nothing... just crank crank, crank, crank, no start. Again, have fuel, spark and compression. what in the F**K is going on? I don't get it.
Interesting, just need confirmation, you are starting the motor with the rotary Valve cover off?..I believe your timing is 130/65?. Perhaps time to go to basics.
I assume you have a degree wheel, and that you have timed it by normal rotary valve timing procedure...( plus or minus 5 degrees). This would be a good time to check the rv clearance, .012 inch, plus/minus .002 inch..
I assume you have a degree wheel, and that you have timed it by normal rotary valve timing procedure...( plus or minus 5 degrees). This would be a good time to check the rv clearance, .012 inch, plus/minus .002 inch..
HI POPPS, Yes I literally just pulled the rotary valve cover off with the carbs, again. and the crank is full of fuel. I removed the wheel itself and started the engine and it fired up and ran perfectly. I will measure the the thickness of the valve here today. I thought the timing was 147. But I will try 130/65. It is the twin carb model 580.7 engine. Im not seeing any heavy grooves or damage to the cover to indicate any issue there. Its just very weird how this thing will not run. Once I set the 147 put it bak together it fired right up and revved up fine. Backed it out the garage to hook water to it and it would just crank with no fire whatsoever. When literally 5mins ago it fired right up, checked fuel, spark, compression and all is good. Just so damn puzzled.
I think I may have found the issue. We got this ski non-running and replaced all the above. We just measured the Rotary Valve that was in this ski with the clear degree wheel we have. The measurement came in at 156. So Im wondering if the previous owners ordered a degree wheel for the ski and got a 159. This is the only consensus I can come too. I went ahead and ordered a 147 degree wheel for this ski. So Im hoping in a couple days it will be here and this is my problem. Strange part is the Rotary valve has light marks on it like it was being run in the engine.... But who knows.
I have rebuilt alot of Mikuni carbs on skis. Not saying I don't make mistakes, and I have for sure.... but I've double checked them, plus I used all actual mikuni kits. Trust me when I say I've been through everything twice or 3 or 4 times. The rotary valve is my last resort? Does it make sense that it could be the wrong one? I do alot of side work on skis, but this one is driving me nuts. The rotary valve spins when engine is cranked. So I'm guessing the brass gear is ok that turns the valve right? At this point I'm lost. But I'm going to keep digging.
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