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07 RXT Supercharged shaft boot at impeller

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door54

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Hello all,

While crawling around under my RXTs performing a visual inspection after a recent ride, I noticed a significant difference of appearence of the impeller boot from one unit vs. the other. I was able to position a flashlight and a camera, get a couple of pics and upload them to my computer for better viewing. It appears that the boot is comprised of two sections although it probably is one piece. The "section" up against the impeller is sandwiched by the snug fitting forward section of the boot and looks as I would imagine it should...clean tight and right with just a bit of visable shaft rust. The other boot is missing the "shaft snug" front half. This exposes the middle section of the boot to collect high speed H2O. I'm surprised the thing hasn't filled up like a water balloon and ruptured.
The units have 60 and 70 hours respectively. the 60 hr unit is the wifes and runs as smooth as a Rolls. The 70 hr unit has the boot issue and has had a solid vibration at certain speed ranges since day one. I have spent hours searching for the vibration source for the last 5 years without luck. It would make sense to me that I finally found it.
Both units have been problem free with the exception of replacing the DESS posts/battery on each one. They do eveything we ask of them, and they flat out FLY.
What are your thoughts on the boot? Oh, the impeller edges seem very clean...95% smooth, The 5% are very small dings on the visable areas

 
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You are talking about the rubber nose cone on the front of the impeller where the driveshaft goes into the impeller? Can you post pics of them here?

- Michael
 
It sounds like the rubber nosecone has come partway out of the impeller... you might want to go ahead and pull the pump and check it further.

- Michael
 
Or, the rubber nosecone has torn (sounds like you've ingested something at least once, causing some dings in the impeller blades). Undoubtedly the rubber nosecone needs replacing! Pics would be useful here...

- Michael
 
Thanks for taking the time to respond Michael...Ive been following your replies with others. I think were on the same wavelenghth, just different terminology. You call it a nosecone? That works for me. The pics I took I will attach asap . the leading edge of the nosecone (Furthest from the impeller ) is gone. Do you think that would facilitate vibration? Im hoping to kill two birds with one stone.
 
I just checked... your terminology is actually the more correct one. It's labeled in the microfich as an "IMPELLER BOOT ASS'Y". So, I'll adjust my terminology then. LOL!

Are the pics forthcoming? I think you need to pull that pump off and take a good look at it, see if anything is stuck in there that doesn't belong and make certain the impeller has no bends in it. Probably order a new Impeller Boot for it also!

- Michael
 
I have no problem with pump removal, Ive got the tools and the apptitude, but no experience. Any landmines in there or is it just simple chronolgical disassembly and reverse on re-assembly? I recently downloaded the shop manual, but if you have some pointers Im all ears. My computer is not cooperating with me on the pictures at this time. They are crystal clear, bear with me
 
Any landmines in there or is it just simple chronolgical disassembly and reverse on re-assembly?

Nope, takes about 30 minutes the 1st time (as you figure out what sockets and wrenches you need to fit everything... a 10mm socket and wrench is required for the linkages to the nozzle, a long LONG 1/2" extension helps to reach the retaining nuts for the pump but I don't recall what deep socket size those brass locknuts take). Note the order of things and how snug the locknuts are before you take them loose, some such as for the OPAS paddle linkages aren't meant to be tightened tight, merely snug. There is a small water line on top of the pump, disconnect it with a long screwdriver and don't forget it's there when you put the pump back into the hull later!

After 1st time, it really only takes like 15 minutes or less to pull it and about the same to re-install it. When reinstalling tilt the pump downwards at the front so as to "catch" the driveshaft so it will go back into the impeller, then if the splines aren't quite right rock the pump clockwise/counterclockwise just a bit till the splines finally mesh then shove it back on fully. It's really quite easy. You'll see, just take your time this 1st time all will go well.

- Michael
 
Hey Michael-
I have not been able to free up those pics, but perusing thru some of the other posts I came across the 215 wake "sucked and spit" post and he had several shots of his shaft,impeller,and wear ring. Although my boot assy's differ slightly in that mine appear to be a bit more stout, I can use his as visual aides.
His has what appears to be a nylon or plastic ring sleeve that rides over the shaft and inside of the rubber boot. Mine have a taller (3/16-1/4 inch ring sleeve that rides on the shaft but either butts into or possibly slides under the boot.
Now if you were to look at his pics and imagine cutting the nylon ring off and cutting away half of the boot so as to leave the remainder of the boot intact as if to collect all the fast water and whatever else passes thru that impeller....THAT is what mine looks like. I know it must be replaced, and I'm hoping that it fixes the chronic vibration its had since I bought it
 
I cannot say if that's the cause of your vibration, or a symptom of it. I just don't know.

If it looks like half of it is missing, then it probably is... the question is what happened to it? Something must have gone thru the pump and torn it is my guess, it also may have done some damage to your impeller and wear ring check them carefully look for any odd bends in the impeller blades especially and look for any sign of anything still stuck in the pump, once you get it off.

- Michael
 
It looks to me like both of your impeller boots need to be replaced... I see some signs that you've had foreign debris in the pumps, the impeller blade's are a bit dinged up and it looks like something's been wound around both drive shafts right in front of the impeller boots (or what remains of the impeller boots).

You might also want to send both impellers off to be be reconditioned (they'll take the dings out of the leading edges and check the blade pitch for any bends and adjust as needed). I think SBT does impeller reconditioning for like $30 or something. You might want to look into it for later this Fall after the season comes to an end? I'd go ahead and replace both impeller boots like NOW though if you haven't already... they both look to be damaged IMHO.

ps. The impeller boot on the 1st pic has been crushed backwards onto the front of the impeller itself, it's like "mashed". The one on the 2nd pic appears to have some tearing at the front of the boot going on. Both shafts look like they've had ropes or something wrapped around them right in front of the impeller boots.

- Michael
 
Ok replacing the boots it is. Another member was good enough to hook me up with a link for an impeller tool for like $23 and it should be here any day. I held off on the pump removal til all parts and tools were on hand (glad I did).
The RXTs were purchased new, and the wife and I are literally the only ones to have ridden them. I can only recall maybe 2 or 3 times between the two of them, where some water grass was ingested, and there was some cavitation, but the grass was easily removed. I will say that there has never been any rope, straps of any sort that I am aware of, unless there was ingestion and expulsion that I didn't see, hear, or feel.
However...when we purchased them, one had 10 hours on it, was in mint condition (really!) and the dealer told me that he personally put that time on it..yada yada. From the very first time in the water, the 10 hr unit has had a vibration to it say, from 30-34 mph and Ive never been able to put my finger on it. (That is the unit that has the mashed boot) Maybe a "rope wrap" happened then, I just dont know.
The "mashed boot" unit now has 70 hrs on it (they were purchased in Spring '08)
They have been run exclusively on Lake Mead and the Colorado river as far down as Havasu.(general info)
Do you think that mashed boot could have possibly been like that since the git-go?
 
Possibly, yes. There's no way to prove it other than to replace it with a new one and if the vibration issue then goes away you could conclude it'd been like that since you bought it.

I suspect what may be happening is the waterflow is expanding the boot even further and it's yo-yoing around on the driveshaft causing the imbalance you feel. There's little doubt that water pressure is going into the thing, and must be expanding it as well.

Solas impellers use an aluminum "boot" with o-rings inside that seal the boot agains the shaft, they're supposed to be more efficient (possibly for just this reason).

Your impellers do both show signs of rock dings however, grass doesn't ding up the blade leading edges like that... both impellers could stand a reconditioning IMHO.

- Michael
 
Your assessment on the boot makes sense. Thanks.
So far as rock dings go, guilty as charged. lol Can't seem to get away from some of the smaller rocks and gravel....heck thats all we got here in the southwest besides lizards. Curious though, when I finally get to dig into these units (and I'm getting impatient) when I pull the impellers, if the blade transitions appear smooth and its just a matter of some mild pressing and edge management to correct some dings is there any reson why I should not do that?
 
Do you have a way of checking the blade pitch and correcting it if necessary? If not, send it in and let a pro do them right.

A guy in another posting let his SeaDoo Dealership's mechanic try truing the pitch on his impeller after a blade got bent... he posted after pics, it was a mess! I think he decided to just toss it and buy a new Solas impeller. Which, if you have the money to spend the Solas Concord impellers are SWEET! I'm running a Concord 13/18 in my RXT now.

-Michael
 
If I can see deviation in blade pitch, or warping, I aint touchin' it.
If factory transitions from the base to the edge look undisturbed and its just truing some small edge warbles I'd give it a go with tools and equip. I have on hand.

You mention SBT as a go to on many post replies. Who are they and where are they? Do you have a link you could provide for them?

And last but not least I have another thread floating out there relating to this impeller boot issue that you responded to 'bout a week ago titled " First time pump assembly removal prep". Ive bee lookin' high and low for a pump rebuild kit without luck. Am I just chasing my tail?
 
Google "SBT SeaDoo" and you'll see their website.

I'm neither endorsing nor recommending them, they're just the only shop I know of that does things like reconditioning impellers and rebuilding engines and such. Some people have had good luck with their products, other's not so much I've read. They're located in Florida I believe. I haven't used them for anything so far so I don't have personal experience with them.

If anybody knows other shops that can recondition impellers and rebuild PWC engines and such, please do speak up and post! It's good to have options.

- Michael
 
SBT should have pump rebuild kits/parts also. Check their website and see.

Also I think SeaDoo Warehouse should have all the pump parts as well... maybe not in a kit format, but individual parts I'm sure.

- Michael
 
So far as rock dings go, guilty as charged. lol Can't seem to get away from some of the smaller rocks and gravel....heck thats all we got here in the southwest besides lizards.

I am lucky the only lake I prefer to go to has a fine sandy bottom.... no rocks, no muck, just clean almost beach quality sand everwhere I've ever set foot in it. :-)

- Michael
 
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