'04 GTX SC cranks but won't start

[chipreibel]

I acquired an '04 supercharged GTX from my sister. Her ex-husband pulled it out of the water back in '09 to replace the carpets, and it hasn't seen the water since. It does appear as though he drained the fuel at some time (the tank was empty and there were little/no fumes at the cap).

The ski is in beautiful condition with 85 hours on it.

I finished replacing the carpets , checked the oil level, replaced the battery and tossed in 5 gallons of premium. It will crank just fine, but won't fire. It doesn't show any codes (after pressing the "set" button 5 times) - it just says "end".

This is my first PWC and have no idea where to go from here. Any suggestions on where to go from here?

 

[KK40384]

Take the seat off and plug in the lanyard. Do you hear the fuel pump buzzing? If yes then pull the plugs and check them. Chances are they are toast and will need to be replaced. Once you have good plugs and fuel we can go from there if it doesn't start. Easy steps first.

 

[mattydipps]

have you thought about a supercharger rebuilt?

 

[chipreibel]

My apologies for the newbie question, but I'm assuming that it's an in-tank pump. (I think that this is a fairly safe assumption because the fuel line goes straight from the tank to the fuel rail.) I ask this because I do not hear any buzzing from up near the fuel tank, but I do hear a very faint buzzing from the (solenoid?) next to the oil fill cap. The buzzing from the (solenoid?) continues for a few seconds after removing the lanyard.

I just checked for spark on all 3 plugs and they spark just fine (and incidentally saw a small amount of fuel come out of the plug hole while cranking).

 

[chipreibel]

have you thought about a supercharger rebuilt?

The ski ran fine when he pulled it from the water, so I don't think that it's anything relating to the charger (but I've been wrong before).

 

[mattydipps]

The ski ran fine when he pulled it from the water, so I don't think that it's anything relating to the charger (but I've been wrong before).

i wasnt implying that was your problem lol i was trying to save you from a HUGE problem.. our superchargers need to be rebuilt every 100 hours or two years.. the ceramic inside the superchargers become weak and over time will break and when they do.. theres only one place for it to break and thats into your motor.. basically destroying the motor from the inside..

 

[chipreibel]

our superchargers need to be rebuilt every 100 hours or two years...

Ah, gotcha. Thank you for the heads-up. Once I get it up and running, I'll put that top of the to-do list!

I just checked all of the fuses (they were all fine). There are four wires in the weather-pack connector that goes to the fuel pump - I'm assuming that two are for the pump (+12v, Ground) and two are for the fuel level sending unit (+?v, Return). They are labeled (A, B, C & D). Any idea what two are for the fuel pump so that I can verify +12v and ground going to the pump?

 

[chipreibel]

I've got 12.6v on pin "A" (which I assume is the fuel pump power feed) and 5v on pin "B" (which I assume is the sending unit input).

I assume this means that I need a new fuel pump? If the answer is, "Yes", then I have two follow-up questions:

1) Where is the best (read: "cheapest") place to get a good replacement?
2) What is the easiest way to remove/replace the pump? Should I go in through the engine compartment or remove the trap-door in the front trunk? Neither option looks all that appealing...

Thanks!

 

[Dennis]

OK.
The noise coming from the solenoid by the oil fill cap is normal. It SHOULD continue a little bit even after the key is disconnected.

The "A" wire (purple and pink) is the 12 volt power supply coming from the MPEM to the fuel pump.

The "D" wire (brown and pink) is the ground wire coming from the ECU ( on top of the engine) that turns the pump on.

When the lanyard is installed you should hear and/or feel the fuel pump come on for about 2 seconds and then turn off.

If you have battery voltage on the "A" wire when you install the lanyard then the pump fuse is good.

Warning: do NOT check for ground coming from the ECU thru the "D" wire when you install the lanyard unless you are experienced. One wrong connection while testing for ground might blow the ECU !

Odds are the fuel pump is just stuck from being idle so long. Now that it is submerged in fuel it may free itself up if you let it sit for a few days, occasionally installing the lanyard and listening for it to operate. You might also try GENTLY tapping on top of the fuel tank with a rubber mallot while someone else cycles the lanyard on and off.

The way to remove the pump is to remove the glove box and front trap door to gain good access. :cheers:

 

[KK40384]

From the sounds of it you either have a bad pump or it could just be froze. Like Dennis said, connect the lanyard and tap lightly on the top of the tank and hope for the best.

 

[chipreibel]

Warning: do NOT check for ground coming from the ECU thru the "D" wire when you install the lanyard unless you are experienced. One wrong connection while testing for ground might blow the ECU!

Good to know. I did probe all (4) pins to ground (with a multimeter) to determine if there voltage across them (but never applied power to any of them looking for a ground). I'll stop probing since everything appears to be fine.

Odds are the fuel pump is just stuck from being idle so long. Now that it is submerged in fuel it may free itself up if you let it sit for a few days, occasionally installing the lanyard and listening for it to operate. You might also try GENTLY tapping on top of the fuel tank with a rubber mallot while someone else cycles the lanyard on and off.

I'll let it sit another day or two (I just filled it with fuel ~24 hours ago). Should/Could I pull the fuel pump and submerge it in lacquer thinner or give it a thorough soaking with carb cleaner to try and unstick it?