02 GTXDI

[jimmyluke]

I think the first one was 12 or 15 psi with the key in. I never checked when turning over and as I said it never started. I didn't check the pressure right away and thought I had a problem other than the fuel pump especially after installing 3 Quantums. Weren't you one of the guys that had success with the Quantum?

No I was not one of the guys that had success with the quantum. I did purchase one several years ago and I got about two hours of run time before it lost enough pressure that it would not start in the water. I think there’s a lifetime warranty on it but I never returned it because if I got another one I wouldn’t trust it.

 

[Wess]

So, I did my pressure test today. Key on: around 15 +-2
Idle Running: around needle fluctuates between 90 and 102
Throttle up it drops to 70-80. I maintain this throttle and it stays around 70-80.
Your thoughts?

When i changed the filter inside the tank, a few years ago before storing it, I never replaced the hidden filter inside the filter housing. Should I just get a new pump and filter and be done with it. I know people have mentioned cleaning.

 

[jimmyluke]

I am a little confused, in post #3 you said you changed both filters? If you didnt change both internal filters, pull the pump and clean the pump like I mentioned above and put new filters in and then try it again it’s worth a try.

 

[nickmo12]

You might want to check yours or try a different gauge. I didn't think it would start with that pressure. I'm pretty sure it needs 27 psi to start.

 

[Wess]

nickmo 12, It starts up no problem and idles no problem. When I throttle it up that's when it jumps down to 70-80. I'm just going with the pressures that were given to me on the previous page. jimmyluke, before I stored it I put the bottom filter on the pump inside the tank, there is another filter, a square one, I believe called a strainer. I didn't replace that one. You have to remove the pump from the aluminum housing to get to it. Also, I observed another problem that may be or may not be contributing. I found a water leak off the exhaust that is spraying directly onto the rectifier and MPEM. I believe I can JBWELD it. The pics depict the hole and it spraying. The hole is right below the elbow.

 

[Wess]

I now see what the pressures should be on the previous page, my bad, but it does start and run but under throttle drops. I am wondering if that water is messing with the electronics now. I know they should be water proof.

 

[nickmo12]

Fuel issues are usually the cause of most DI problems, but not all. Anytime I had a fuel pump/filter issue, the ski just stalled and wouldn't start and no maintenance light.

 

[etemplet]

Did you replace the rectifier??? I didn't read the whole thread sorry. My RX DI would start and idle. While warming up letting it idle a few minutes when I opened the throttle the ski would do nothing... just idle. Someone suggested replacing the rectifier and VIOLA... it all worked. If the fuel pump isn't getting the proper voltage it is not gonna put out the proper pressure. Give that some thought and good luck !!!

 

[Wess]

I replaced the rectifier a little while ago, didn’t notice the exhaust problem then. The exhaust hole is from storage I think. The ski was winterized them years with RV antifreeze, it must have sat in that part of the exhaust. Pretty thin in that area like a freeze plug in a car but welded in.

 

[Wess]

Fuel issues are usually the cause of most DI problems, but not all. Anytime I had a fuel pump/filter issue, the ski just stalled and wouldn't start and no maintenance light.

No maintenance light, would restart after sitting a few minutes. A run a few seconds.

 

[WaarrEagle]

When I throttle it up that's when it jumps down to 70-80.

This may not be your only problem, but this is one you will need to address to get it running. 80 psi under throttle will not cut it.

 

[Wess]

I put a bandaid on the exhaust, JB WELD, I’ll see if that was my problem, then go from there. Just wondering if the water was messing with power to the pump.

 

[DooWacka]

I would say your exhaust water leak is a separate problem.

As others have said the DI problems are mostly associated with not enough voltage (usually REC/REG), or not enough fuel pressure. The fuel pressure problem is usually the fuel pump (or installation) and very rarely the air pump.

I would agree that your measurement gauge seems suspect, since the DI will not run at all below about 90 psi fuel pressure. It may run poorly between 90 and about 104, but it really needs to be 107 psi.

Regarding a low pressure fuel pump test: Sometimes the fuel pump Module installation into the fuel tank will allow the pump to "lean over" or "bend over" such that the "sliding seal" leaks, lowering the pressure. Make sure the fuel module is "square" before compressing the spring.

I have been running the High Flow Fuel 342DI pump in all four of my 2001 GTX DI for a few years now with good success. I agree the OEM pump is/was amazing (low current draw with great pressure), however, it does have some metal internals which do corrode with minor amounts of water in the fuel. Upon corrosion, the OEM pump either gets to low of pressure periodically (causing stalling or poor performance), or starts drawing so much power that the MPEM starves for power and therefore causes a variety of problems.

When I get one of the HFF 342 DI pumps that fails, it is often the pressure relief valve on the top of the pump. As a result I now always seal that with a bit of epoxy (JB Weld) before installation.

I am currently trying one of the HFF 500DI fuel pumps that is a bit noisier when priming but is almost the exact look and dimensions of the OEM pump. Therefore no "extension" is needed to make it the same height as OEM. This larger pump might be better and the noise of course can not be heard when running.

The OEM fuel modules and pumps were/are very expensive, and now you can only find used ones.

 

[Wess]

Thanks for all inputs, I pulled the pump yesterday and observed that the external filter had fallen off. There was debri at the pump intake. I cleaned the pump up and reinstalled it. It started right up, however, a few minutes later the maintenance light/message came on with beeping. I attempted to reset the maintenance light/message with the "SET" button but that didn't work. I turned the ski off and now it will not start. I guess I will pull the pump today and see what's going on. I can hear the pump turning on when I put the lanyard on.

 

[nickmo12]

As some others have said, it seems like you may have 2 different issues. Fuel pump problems don't set the maintenance light off. If you check fuel pressure with a reliable gauge, you can eliminate the fuel pump or not.
If you can get a hold of a Candoo, it will give you a lot of info concerning codes that will give you a maintenance light.

 

[Wess]

The maintenance light warning is new and I think as a result of what I did yesterday. Didn't have the issue before pulling the pump out. I hear you on the Candoo, I wish that price tag was a little easier on the wallet.

 

[Wess]

Ok, put pressure guage back on fuel line, shoots right to 30 a few times to 70?? with lanyard, then drops immediately to 0, could be my connection. I don't hear or see any leaks. I then crank it and it starts, no messages or light. Stays at or above 107 and runs. I think I'm going to pull this pump and see if it got a little wampus after putting it in.

 

[Wess]

I now have put the external filter back in line. I know the filter is directional and I have assured that it's facing the right direction. The ski just turns over and no start. I have put the key in the lanyard many times to run the pump to insure that the system is pressurized with fuel. If I eliminate the filter, I think it will run like it was when I had the inline gauge on. I'm just wondering if the pump is strong enough. I still need to pull it and check the alignment with the pump with the internals. Pulling my few hairs left out.

 

[Wess]

Ok, put aftermarket "CNT" pump on. Pump is drop in, no modifications but electrical connections. Pump starts ski and is maintaining proper pressures, however, getting Maintenance Light with beep, Low 12 V. Battery is new and maintenance charge was put on last night. Is the new pump requiring more voltage than the old one and setting this off?

 

[Wess]

I believe I have a bad rectifier, battery not charging, battery is 12.87 upon start drops to 12.36. Stator Ohmed out properly. Looking for one to buy. I replaced this with a non oem probably around 20 hours on it and then it sat for 3 yrs. Don't know if the water from the exhaust spraying directly on it helped it out the door. Could this be the result of the new pump?

 

[Wess]

Any suggestions on a Rectifier? I have been looking and from what I have read, I should buy the 4 tec one that has been modified for the DI models, from OSD Marine. Sorry for all the posts, I was on a rant yesterday, posting my progress.

 

[Mraw]

I would go with the OSD one

 

[jimmyluke]

Oem only for me

 

[jimmyluke]

I bought One from OSD that was modified from a 4 tech to work for a DI. I don’t even think I got one hour out of it until the maintenance light went on and I hooked it up to the Candoo and it indicated that I had high voltage when the fault triggered I think it was like 18.1 V at 5500 RPM I checked everything out electrically the best I could the stator checked out OK and actually while running on the hose and my carbon seal relaxed I brought it up to 5000 to 5500 RPM and I could not get it to mimic the 18 V. It was a couple years ago and I don’t remember the exact voltage but It. Was in the acceptable range. Bottom line is @jhjesse very firmly suggested I get an OEM regulator and I did and it’s been fine ever since. Some people have had luck with the modified 4-tech from OSD but I didn’t.

 

[WaarrEagle]

I needed a new rectifier over the summer for my DI. Tried OSD but they were out of stock so I ended up buying a used OEM off e-bay for ~$20 shipped. Up to you on how much you want to gamble on it.