01 seadoo gtx DI issue no start

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ChrisRide

New Member
I recently purchased an 01 gtx with direct injection. Original complaint was it would fire but not start. I have removed the air compressor line and verified the compressor makes over 100 psi dead headed and tested the relief valve to 80psi. I have removed and cleaned the fuel pump but have not yet verified exact fuel pressure. What I have found is that if I remove the black air line that leads to rave valve solenoid from the compressor head that it will start and idle. Once I hook it back up it will die.Not sure why this is and looking for some guidance. Thank you for any help!
 
I would be checking compression first on any DI motor that was purchased not running. Then fuel pressure, then worry about the air system.
 
I see the fuel pump motor has been replaced with a quantum branded unit. I’m confused as why removing that one line from the compressor allows it to start right up
 
I see the fuel pump motor has been replaced with a quantum branded unit. I’m confused as why removing that one line from the compressor allows it to start right up
Check where the lines go to the rave valve solenoid. I had them mixed up and it would barely idle, switched them around and now it runs great
 
If the solenoid opens and closes would it actually make a difference which side they attach too?
I re-read your post and now I'm a little confused. You stated that if you removed the rave valve feed line it actually started and idled smooth? If that line is disconnected it would not be able build enough air pressure to idle smoothly. You could try and just pinch off the rave feed line to see if that makes it run better
 
I re-read your post and now I'm a little confused. You stated that if you removed the rave valve feed line it actually started and idled smooth? If that line is disconnected it would not be able build enough air pressure to idle smoothly. You could try and just pinch off the rave feed line to see if that makes it run better
If I disconnect the black line that runs from the nipple on the compressor to the rave solenoid it will fire up and idle, if I restrict the nipple on the compressor either by covering with my finger or reattaching the rave solenoid line it will die immediately
 
If I disconnect the black line that runs from the nipple on the compressor to the rave solenoid it will fire up and idle, if I restrict the nipple on the compressor either by covering with my finger or reattaching the rave solenoid line it will die immediately
Wow. That is back-ass backwards from what I have found. once I covered that line with my finger it actually ran better! lol. That is a tough one, I'm stumped
 
Wow. That is back-ass backwards from what I have found. once I covered that line with my finger it actually ran better! lol. That is a tough one, I'm stumped
Exactly, that’s where I’m stuck, wondering if I’m fighting a low fuel pressure issue and that’s why it’s starting when I remove the line from the compressor to the rave solenoid allowing the air pressure to drop to make up for weak fuel pressure
 
Exactly, that’s where I’m stuck, wondering if I’m fighting a low fuel pressure issue and that’s why it’s starting when I remove the line from the compressor to the rave solenoid allowing the air pressure to drop to make up for weak fuel pressure
low fuel pressure is a strong possibility on a di ski. I made a simple tester with a gauge off amazon, a t fitting, and high pressure 5/16 vinyl hose. You also have to get a male and female quick disconnect fitting so it clicks into the factory lines
 
Exactly, that’s where I’m stuck, wondering if I’m fighting a low fuel pressure issue and that’s why it’s starting when I remove the line from the compressor to the rave solenoid allowing the air pressure to drop to make up for weak fuel pressure
Proper air pressure is required to make proper fuel pressure on a DI. The fuel pressure regulator is set for 27 PSI on top of whatever the air pressure is. The air pressure regulator is set to 80 psi vs ambient. Leaving the air pressure line open should cause problems, not fix them, so that is odd. The orifice on that line is pretty small tho. That is why I suggested to check fuel pressure after compression. If you get proper fuel pressure, you essentially confirm fuel and air pressure at the same time.
 
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