01 GTX di stalling out after 20 min

[HawkX66]

I have an 01 GTX 951 di that runs awesome for 20 min or so. I can run it up to 57 and it's as smooth running as you can ask for, for about 20 min. It dies out and I can start it again, but it will only run for 30 seconds or so until it's stone cold again. For that 30 seconds it runs as good as new.
Any ideas? It's a new to me machine that hasn't had a perfect ride for me yet. I rebuilt the jet pump and last week I put it in the water only to find out the carbon ring was real bad. That's the first time I noticed the stalling out problem. It took on water while I paddled back to shore, but I made it back before too much got in. I replaced the carbon ring and boot etc. That worked out good.
Any ideas for the stalling out? I was planning on pulling the fuel tank and replacing the fuel lines. I can't find new replacements though...

 

[Uncle_Tone]

Check your fuel pressure. I have 2 DI's and they both needed a new fuel pump. 27psi key on the dess post and 107psi engine running. The other 80psi come from the air compressor. If these 2 pumps don't work perfectly, neither will you ski.

 

[HawkX66]

Check your fuel pressure. I have 2 DI's and they both needed a new fuel pump. 27psi key on the dess post and 107psi engine running. The other 80psi come from the air compressor. If these 2 pumps don't work perfectly, neither will you ski.

Thanks a lot. I think I'm going to install a permanent fuel pressure gauge. Seems to be a pretty common issue for these DIs.

 

[Uncle_Tone]

Permanent fuel gauge is good but if your problem is that serious you are def going to have to buy a fuel pump or rebuild the compressor. New OEM pumps break the bank at just under 1k. I buy used and have a 2 on the shelf waiting just in case. Used pumps range from $200 and up. I also went the rebuild route and from my experience, I got about 2 hours out of it and it started to act up. These DI's require quite a bit of production from the fuel pump. Compressor rebuild costs around $40 give or take. Good Luck.

 

[HawkX66]

Permanent fuel gauge is good but if your problem is that serious you are def going to have to buy a fuel pump or rebuild the compressor. New OEM pumps break the bank at just under 1k. I buy used and have a 2 on the shelf waiting just in case. Used pumps range from $200 and up. I also went the rebuild route and from my experience, I got about 2 hours out of it and it started to act up. These DI's require quite a bit of production from the fuel pump. Compressor rebuild costs around $40 give or take. Good Luck.

I'm thinking I might go the a/m route that I read about if I need a pump. I usually don't mind used, but with a 20 year old machine I think I'd feel better with a nice new pump. Seadoo can bite me if they think I'm spending a g note on one though. I know it's a bit of a process to put an a/m pump in, but that's not a big deal for me.
I won't be able to diagnose the boat for another week or so, but I'll post up what happens when I do. Thanks for the help.

 

[jhjesse]

Fuel pumps are not usually “sometimers” they either are working or not.
From the description you have given it sounds to me like fuel flow restriction meaning the filters are clogged.
If it were me, I would pull the fuel pump give it a good cleaning and replace the internal filters. Airtex 242 and 220. You can purchase at most any auto parts store.
Then reinstall pump and replace the canister filter on the fuel supply line. I also replace that expensive canister fuel filter with a WIX 33095 filter for about 5 bucks along with two heavy stainless hose clamps.

 

[HawkX66]

Fuel pumps are not usually “sometimers” they either are working or not.
From the description you have given it sounds to me like fuel flow restriction meaning the filters are clogged.
If it were me, I would pull the fuel pump give it a good cleaning and replace the internal filters. Airtex 242 and 220. You can purchase at most any auto parts store.
Then reinstall pump and replace the canister filter on the fuel supply line. I also replace that expensive canister fuel filter with a WIX 33095 filter for about 5 bucks along with two heavy stainless hose clamps.

Awesome. Thanks. I've found the same thing with car fuel pumps. Usually when they're dead they're dead. I have read a few posts on Seadoo pumps "going" though and when guys swap them out all is good. Could be because they've also cleaned things out when they put it back together.
I'll go the clean and filter replace route before I hit the more expensive pump replacement.

 

[HawkX66]

What do you guys think about this kit? I was looking at filters and found it. For $60 it comes with the filters too. Seems like it might be a good idea to replace the pump while I'm in there if it's this cheap going a/m. Says it's drop in too so I guess the old method of converting them isn't necessary anymore.

https://www.highflowfuel.com/i-35459932-quantum-fuel-pump-replacement-kit-for-seadoo-gtx-1998-2007-replaces-204560418.html

or

https://www.highflowfuel.com/i-35461058-quantum-direct-replacement-fuel-pump-kit-w-tank-seal-filter-for-seadoo-gtx-1998-2007-replaces-204560418.html

 

[jhjesse]

Never had much luck replacing the pump with aftermarket. I have a couple of those HFP 342 pumps laying around that didn’t work.
I would try the cleaning and filter replacement route first. That is just my opinion. Others on here have had some success with aftermarket pumps, but I have never had any.

 

[HawkX66]

Never had much luck replacing the pump with aftermarket. I have a couple of those HFP 342 pumps laying around that didn’t work.
I would try the cleaning and filter replacement route first. That is just my opinion. Others on here have had some success with aftermarket pumps, but I have never had any.

I'll do that first and see what happens. Easy enough for filter replacements and a good cleaning. Thanks again for the replies.

 

[Uncle_Tone]

Thanks jesse, I did forget to mention the filter replacement as well and I am in the same boat with the a/m pumps. I have 2 in the basement with no luck. OEM serves me well....

 

[etemplet]

What do you guys think about this kit? I was looking at filters and found it. For $60 it comes with the filters too. Seems like it might be a good idea to replace the pump while I'm in there if it's this cheap going a/m. Says it's drop in too so I guess the old method of converting them isn't necessary anymore.

https://www.highflowfuel.com/i-35459932-quantum-fuel-pump-replacement-kit-for-seadoo-gtx-1998-2007-replaces-204560418.html

or

https://www.highflowfuel.com/i-35461058-quantum-direct-replacement-fuel-pump-kit-w-tank-seal-filter-for-seadoo-gtx-1998-2007-replaces-204560418.html

I bought a kit for the RFI from these people and they sell you a proper filter for the pressure line. I have not used the pump but these are my goto people. If they offer a higher end model I'd go with that one. I'll definitely go NEW AFTERMARKET if I need one on a DI. This is also the only place I could find the correct pressure fuel filter regulator for the RFI.

 

[jhjesse]

I am not as familiar with RFI skis, but if memory serves me well they take less fuel pressure, therefore I believe the aftermarket pumps do well. I have not heard anything negative from the RFI guys in the past.

 

[jhjesse]

For all you guys, myself included that just don’t want to pay for a very expensive OEM fuel pump, I recommend purchasing a spare used OEM pump. Go through it and keep it on the shelf.
These OEM pumps are pretty tough. The reason they fail is because the filters get clogged causing the pump to work much harder than normal. Hence a premature failure due to lack of maintenance. I personally change the filters in my skis every other year. Since I have been doing this I have never had a problem. (Knock on wood)
Hopefully soon the aftermarket vendors will catch up to OEM.
Call Nick or Jess. Great guys and all parts are tested.
https://www.westsidepowersports.com/

 

[HawkX66]

For all you guys, myself included that just don’t want to pay for a very expensive OEM fuel pump, I recommend purchasing a spare used OEM pump. Go through it and keep it on the shelf.
These OEM pumps are pretty tough. The reason they fail is because the filters get clogged causing the pump to work much harder than normal. Hence a premature failure due to lack of maintenance. I personally change the filters in my skis every other year. Since I have been doing this I have never had a problem. (Knock on wood)
Hopefully soon the aftermarket vendors will catch up to OEM.
Call Nick or Jess. Great guys and all parts are tested.
https://www.westsidepowersports.com/

Thanks a lot. I've been a gear head all my life. I hear your argument and can't dispute it because I'm pretty new to Seadoos. Maybe I'm a glutton for punishment, but I'm going to give the HFP500DI pump assembly with gaskets for $109 a shot. If they weren't $200+ for a 20 year old used pump, I might give it a go. I still might end up doing it, but I'm going to try the Highflow kit first.

https://www.highflowfuel.com/i-3546...-seadoo-gtx-1998-2007-replaces-204560418.html

 

[HawkX66]

I replaced the filters and cleaned everything real well this weekend. I had a question about bleeding the oil pump, but it's gotten one view and no answer...
The HFP500DI kit I received had a different plug so it wasn't plug and play like highflow.com said in their listing. When I emailed them, they said I needed the 342 pump and the new plug they send with it.
The HFP500DI pump looks like the oem pump. Does it flow the same 107psi? I'm not putting it in yet, but I want to know if I should keep it. I'm going to test out my clean and repair later today once I figure out the oil line bleed.

 

[etemplet]

I'm with you on the DI fuel pump. A Seadoo Dealer replaced the pump on a customer's ski with aftermarket for $100 only because he was a previous customer... they don't really work on the two strokes any longer. I have no experience with a replaced fuel pump but obviously they can be reliable and that is the route I have taken with the RFI skis. I keep a Kit for the RFIs on hand. As an aside, I like to use the recommended filter from Quantam over garden varitey filters from the Auto Parts. Not all filters are deisgned for 107psi if indeed that is what the fuel pump puts out.

I recently did some reading on the DI fuel system. I need a few pressure tester and air pressure as well. From what I read, the air pump delivers 80psi pair pressure and the fuel pump delivers 27psi over the air pressure hence 107 PSI. There is an air pressure regulator and a fuel pressure regulator on the system. I plan on learning how this works because compression and fuel pressure are the first things I like to check. I have a Rig for the RFI but I want to make an even quicker test setup rig. Good Luck !! Post up your results.

 

[HawkX66]

You're right about the pressures. It doesn't get much easier to set up a fuel pressure gauge on the DIs thankfully. You cut the fuel line going from the fuel filter and insert a tee fitting with a fuel gauge schrader valve. When you want to check your fuel pressure, you just click onto it like in a car/truck efi system.
What I want to know is what the difference is between the 342 and the 500 pump besides the plug. Highflow.com hasn't been able to give me a clear answer yet. Do they both put out the correct flow and pressure if I splice an old plug on the 500?

 

[etemplet]

Yea, lots of these vendors are just that... vendors/suppliers with little technical knowledge. Sometimes you can ask to talk to a technician which is very helpful..

On the fuel pump tester, I don't like splicing into the permenant system. I like to keep that stock that way less chance of a leak or failure. I don't have a problem with your method. It is very handy and tempting. Ha ha.

How much fuel pressure do you see from the pump when you insert the key. You'd have to reinsert the key a few times to get full pressure. I'm interested in the fuel pump pressure without the engine running. I don't understand how that system works just yet. I know if the air pump isn't working.... you're SOL cut it might start and idle but the ski won't go.

 

[HawkX66]

Yea, lots of these vendors are just that... vendors/suppliers with little technical knowledge. Sometimes you can ask to talk to a technician which is very helpful..

On the fuel pump tester, I don't like splicing into the permenant system. I like to keep that stock that way less chance of a leak or failure. I don't have a problem with your method. It is very handy and tempting. Ha ha.

How much fuel pressure do you see from the pump when you insert the key. You'd have to reinsert the key a few times to get full pressure. I'm interested in the fuel pump pressure without the engine running. I don't understand how that system works just yet. I know if the air pump isn't working.... you're SOL cut it might start and idle but the ski won't go.

I'm heading out to fill up with fuel in a little while. I'll try to get my fuel pressures then. I'm with you on modifying my OE fuel system, but in this case I see little reason to be concerned. I'm also using the oetiker clamps to hold it together. You're supposed to see 27 lbs with the key on, engine off. Add the 80 psi from the compressor when it's turning over or running. Hopefully that's what I end up with. Right now I have my stock pump cleaned and put back in because of the unanswered questions about the 500 pump I have. I also have a compressor rebuild coming this week just in case.
This is the set up I'm using. It's part of the "betool" kit from Amazon. $27.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VV29NHM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This will get spliced into the fuel line:

 

[Uncle_Tone]

I have the same kit. Works just fine

 

[etemplet]

Nice set up for a personal ski but I work on a number of skis. Cool !!

 

[HawkX66]

Well, the new HFP500DI pump was junk. DOA. Physically it's a win. Identical to OEM. You just need to change the plug. I incorrectly assumed all my problems were the pump, but I forgot to go back to basics diagnosing my problems. After I installed the new pump and it wasn't responding, I started to trace wiring. I pulled the pump, put 12v to it directly and nothing. I did the same thing with my OE pump and it worked. In the end, my problem was corroded connections that I thought I had cleaned enough. I just spent the last few hours towing my boys around the river on a tube.
So... Like the guys in the know have been advising, it looks like I'd stay away from Highflow.com/Quantum pumps.

Now there's a new issue... Everything was working perfect, but towards the end of the day it would stall when I tried to idle. It's like the TPS was off. I could hold the throttle slightly open and no problem. Then when I tried to go top speed again, it would only top out at ~46mph. For the first couple of hours I was running at 57mph or so no problem. 46mph and 6,100 rpm was nice and smooth, but I couldn't really give it any more throttle.

 

[Uncle_Tone]

I would start at the beginning again. Fuel pressure test. It’s a pain when the ski is running but if the same situation happens when the ski is out of the water then you can make some progress. If I’m correct a bad TPS would give you a maintenance light and a beep, double check me on that. Almost sounds like the ski is running good and it’s calling for more fuel but the pump just isn’t getting it there. Hope this helps.

 

[HawkX66]

Good advice. Thanks. I'll be doing that today.
Edit: Just put the gauge on her. So easy to do now that I have the permanent Tee installed. Bought a small permanently mounted gauge to install later.
The good news is the pump seems to be ok. I put the key in and got the 27 lbs initial pressure from the pump. Started the ski and it only made it up to 92 lbs. Luckily I already bought the compressor rebuild kit. It'll be going in today and hopefully that'll be the answer.