Recent content by mashenden

Sorry, it just sold. If you find one that needs to be sent to you, I found that USPS was the cheapest way to send the rod ($21.05 fr VA to NC) and USPS "if it fits, it ships" to send the rest of the parts. That may save you some time/money if you end up getting one shipped.

I'll need to get a shipping quote. Lets iron out a few other details first. How would you be paying for it? PayPal or a post on eBay would be 2 options that I use. Anything else becomes a concern mainly becuase I am not famiilar with other methods.

I do. Are you located in VA or would shipping be required?

I bought this new from SBT - used it once. Worked great, but no need for it any more. This tool allows you to properly align the engine with the pump shaft. Alignment is critical to ensure proper mesh of the shaft splines, and preserve the seals and bearings of your engine & pump systems...

Unfortunately not. I had it rebuilt 2 years ago and then about one tank into the break-in and with enough time to realize the carb needed a rebuild, some family issues came up. It sat the rest of the warranty period until I finally decided to tackle it again. Ya snooze, ya lose :(

But in case there is confusion, I am pretty sure the check valve that Dr Honda mentioned in the low speed circuit is not the round ones, but is the tear drop shaped one that is attached with a screw to the removable metal block. This one did not have an ink mark on mine.

Yes there was oil in the small tubes, and there was oil in the intake when I took the carbs off to rebuild them. The pulgs alswys looked a bit wet and it was acting like it was flooding a bit at start up, but notl real bad. All of this is mostly moot now. I'm throwing in the towel. It will be...

Dr Honda - I am nowhere near the level of the real experts on this forum, but given what happened to mine, I wonder if you have any thoughts on my theory?

Turner BFC, your symptoms sound VERY similar to mine. Be sure to read my thread. http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?77708-Carb-Confusion For mine, I think Dr Honda was on the right track with the "compression is low - tired engine" theory. While mine was a new rebuild like yours, I...

RIP - locked up tighter than a nun's... pocketbook. Since the rebuild I have been putting oil in the gas (break in), but as time wore on I started weening it off adding "extra" oil. What went wrong? My theory is that the oil pump was not working properly and the symptoms that I thought were a...

Oh, one more thing - I changed the plugs yesterday and took it for a test run. No change - may have gotten a bit worse. I tested it WOT several times, and it was the same - started up, jumped up on a plane, and the bogged down after 100'. Then the last time I tried to start it, the motor...

Same ski, same things done, and pretty much the same problem here too. Carb rebuilt with OEM, new selector switch, new lines, new plugs, fresh non-ethanol gas, fresh oil. Last weekend it ran better than it ever has - a slight problem starting if I even touched the gas, but otherwise it fired up...

Damn this is frustrating. I confirmed the oil was leaking from the check valve by connecting it to the battery vent hose (that's not connected to the battery since it's an AGM). When I checked it today I had some oil down the outside of the hull, which was better than in the hull, but more...

Not meaning to be argumentative, but when I was asking, most said that I did need to align it. I still have to wonder but I went the safe route.

More like its too rich, not like a stuck needle. No noticeable effect when it is running, though. Last year it flooded while sitting. I am convinced that the new needle/seat fixed that.