Recent content by 75sausage

I had this issue on my 250 DFI and it was caused by the coil driver misfiring top 2 cylinders.

I cleaned the injectors and, finding some corrosion, replaced 2 along with all o-rings. It seems that i developed another problem where the engine idles high. It starts at about 1000rpm then surges to 1200-1250. I was getting a continuous beep alarm shortly after starting the engine. I took...

Dr Honda. You never cease to amaze me with your involvement and great advice over the years. Would that be fuel injectors or oil injectors (if the is such a thing)?

I should add this is in a Islandia jet boat.

Qucksilver DFI or Premium Plus oil? My engine exhaust gases are very pungent. Makes tubing behind boat next to impossible.

Thank you AirSniper, but I already placed an order for a generic Faria gauge. As far as the Smartcraft gauges. I noticed the Merc Monitor install in the sticky which seems like it's straight forward. I am not crazy about the square monitor but the SmartCraft SC1000 Tachometer seems like a...

thank you Dr Honda, you are truly awesome.

Looking to replace a faulty speedo on my Islandia. Needle is pegged on 65mph and will not budge. OEM part is $775, ouch. Any suitable replacement options?

I ran the boat a few times with the new Solas impeller and got 30 MPH with 2 adults on-board. I feel that my engine is not running quite right as I only get just a tad over 5000 rpm. at WOT. I would like to troubleshoot the fuel/air pressured however the cost of the Mercury pressure gauge is a...

Thanks gor the heads up. I have yet to put the boat in the water (still working ontge upholstery). Will update when I can.

Pump all new and refurbished. I cleaned and painted all the parts and reasambled with new shift and steering bellows plus rudder adjusted and centered; I couldn't believe it was so much off. I also replaced my impeller with the solus one.

Quick update: my oil header tak float did go bad after all. The magnet separated from the float which caused it to not function properly. New tank did the trick; light went right out.

I got a new oil tank and tested the old sensor with it and lo and behold it works good (switch closes the circuit with float at the top). So here is a question. Once I replace the header tank do I need to follow any special air purging procedures. Service manual mentions it but I'd like to DIY...

I shorted the switch wires and the light goes out which tells me the problem is with the oil level switch circuit. Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

So I replaced the oil level sensor and the oil level light is still illuminated. Is there a possibility that the float went bad? I definitely felt the little float at the top of the tank. Maybe there is a part of the float which has separated and fell to the bottom of the header tank? Sent from...