wsm new crank shaft

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harryjt

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Last summer my rx lost a counter shaft bearing and toasted the case . So i was original was going to drop a factory short block in it from seadoo only to find out that they are unavabile now. So i started the process of collecting parts to rebuild my motor that only had 90 original hours on it before the bearing gave up. I ordered a new wsm crank for it last week. the new crank arrived and 3 out of the 4 end bearings on the crank feel rough and noisy. So now i am debating just to order 4 original seadoo bearings and press them on or send it back for another crank. The bearings on it make me nervous since they are unmarked taiwan top notch quality. so now i am not sure which direction to go in. the jet is not run hard. mostly just low speed cruising around our lake. i just hate doing jobs twice and i am more then capable of rebuilding the motor my myself i just hate junk after market parts.. I do not have the tools for rebuilding the crank myself so that i am at the mercy of somebody else.
 
If you question the bearings at all send it back now. Who did you buy it from. IF from PWC Muscle they are 100% stand up guys so give them a call. @hfgreg
 
i picked ordered it from the jetski store out of florida . I will send them a message now about it . i was just wondering if it would be worth it to install factory bearings on it. thanks
 
I haven't gotten anything but quality cranks from WSM. Are you sure the bearings are bad? I'm not there to see and feel the bearing but just spinning a bearing doesn't tell you very much. Rotate the bearing back and forth about 1/4 revolution at a time and feel for looseness or any bumps at all. Try to push/hull the outer race while rotating the bearings. A dry bearing can make a lot of noise. Call WSM and talk to them. Chances are the Seller doesn't know much about the crank. Just what I would do, good luck man !! I got 2 951's I'm gonna play with this week and next.

How is your casing?
 
I would call WSM in NY directly at (800)222-3375. I think Chris is their technical guy. He has helped me before. They have been very good to deal with. Can you do a video?
 
i ended up blowing everything out with compressed air and oiled them up with seadoo injection oil. some the foam got into the bearings in shipping i think that was the roughness i was feeling. sorry i jumped the gun i really don't like after market parts because it is tough to find good ones. everything seems good now. so i hope to start reassembling this week. i just got finished collecting the necessary locktite and sealinent for the case.
 
I haven't gotten anything but quality cranks from WSM. Are you sure the bearings are bad? I'm not there to see and feel the bearing but just spinning a bearing doesn't tell you very much. Rotate the bearing back and forth about 1/4 revolution at a time and feel for looseness or any bumps at all. Try to push/hull the outer race while rotating the bearings. A dry bearing can make a lot of noise. Call WSM and talk to them. Chances are the Seller doesn't know much about the crank. Just what I would do, good luck man !! I got 2 951's I'm gonna play with this week and next.

How is your casing?
my cases are trashed. balance shaft is trashed. center gear on the crank is trashed. it is such a shame because the motor only had 90 hours. i can not find any reason why the balance shaft bearing failed . I just got finished collect all of the parts. I am pressing new bearings and all new seals on the balance shaft today. hopefully it dose not happen again. i am also installing new pro x pistons the cylinders are still in spec. do i need to cross hatch the cylinders or wipe them down and install the new pistons
 
As Mikidymac stated, yes. Cylinders need to be honed and make sure the bore size is correct for the new pistons. Aftermarket Pistons have different clearance requirements. You probably won't have a problem there but always check. No surprises. :)
 
I just started restoring Seadoo jet skis a few years ago but in my area these poor skis just get abused and neglected by the owners, not on purpose they just don't know any better. I doubt many around here live to see old age. Be sure you use the correct sealant on the engine cases and seal around the lip seal area. Good Luck.
 
I just started restoring Seadoo jet skis a few years ago but in my area these poor skis just get abused and neglected by the owners, not on purpose they just don't know any better. I doubt many around here live to see old age. Be sure you use the correct sealant on the engine cases and seal around the lip seal area. Good Luck.
i was wondering about the seal lip i was going to follow the manual to the tee. except using Yamaha bond for sealing the cases. should a run a small amount around the seal edges to the case. the used cases i noticed were like that my original cases did not. i figure somebody else got over zealous with the sealant.
 
All I can tell you is the first 787 engine I put a crank in (it was a used crank in good shape) has an oil leak on the inner seals both sides. I was going to put the sealant on the outside of the lips seals when assemblying the cases but noticed how quickly the sealant appeared to cure so I didn't put any. When I say an oil leak..... I put a valve on the oil line. LOL It's my wifes ski. Runs great but If that valve gets left on for a couple weeks I'll have problems starting it. Lot of oil in there but we shouldn't ever lose a bearing for lack of oil. LOL NOW with regard to the sealant, I apply a very thin coat of sealant to everyone I do now. Good Luck.
 
Just to clarify, don’t put sealant on the actual lip of a seal that rides on the crankshaft. You want some grease so you don’t dry start and ruin the seal when the crank starts spinning.

For sealant it goes on the case halves. The only time I would recommend sealant on the outer diameter is if the cases have any pitting on the seal surface from corrosion which is common on salt water skis.
 
Just to clarify, don’t put sealant on the actual lip of a seal that rides on the crankshaft. You want some grease so you don’t dry start and ruin the seal when the crank starts spinning.

For sealant it goes on the case halves. The only time I would recommend sealant on the outer diameter is if the cases have any pitting on the seal surface from corrosion which is common on salt water skis.
thank you for the info. my new cases are spotless. so i am just going to follow the service manual. picked up the mollycoat 111 for the seals and the correct loctite for the bolts and the fly wheel and pto. so the only thing i am substituting is the loctite case sealant mainly because of the price. 50 bucks for a tube is a little steep for one motor job so i went with the yamaha bond instead. i have never seen a motor that so much loctite is used.
 
thank you for the info. my new cases are spotless. so i am just going to follow the service manual. picked up the mollycoat 111 for the seals and the correct loctite for the bolts and the fly wheel and pto. so the only thing i am substituting is the loctite case sealant mainly because of the price. 50 bucks for a tube is a little steep for one motor job so i went with the yamaha bond instead. i have never seen a motor that so much loctite is used.
Although some will argue the 518 that the manual listed is really not what you want to use on the cases and even seadoo changed this later. It is not fuel resistant and gets hard and brittle over time.
You are correct in using the Yamabond which is the same as Hondabond, Threebond 1184 and MotoSeal and is what all the other OEM manufacturers used on cases.
 
Whatever you do.... you don't want to do it TWICE. Taking the advice of Miki and others on the Forum, I use the Motoseal. On a side note I have extensive experience with all the locktites and sealants just not in the marine department. People that build motorcycle engines have for a long long time used the Honda, Yamaha, Motoseal and such with good results. Good Luck.
 
bummer i have already picked up a tube of 518. what should i use on the case bolts and every else they have 518 listed
 
You can use the 518 on the bolts, air cleaner base, head o-ring and pump just like the manual says.
Just don’t use it on the case halves.
 
518 has its applications there is just better stuff to use to seal the cases. Not that 518 doesn't work.... LOL
 
how do you properly install the o rings on the cylinder block studs. i know i need to molycoat them. the manual just says to properly install them.
 
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