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Won't Start ?? Please help

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ewalen444

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Hello,

I'm new to the site, and new to the seadoo PWC, So first let me say thank you for taking a look at this post.

I have 1997 Seadoo GTS.

When I try to start it, it just cranks. I have checked the sparkplugs. Both are firing. I have put mixed fuel in the carb, and it does fire up. So I believe the problem is a) in the carb or b) in the fuel line.

Can I be missing anything eles?

Thanks !
 
If you have gray fuel lines, you'll need to replace those ASAP. Then you'll have to go though and clean out all the gum-like varnish those fuel lines have decomposed into. Sometimes you can get away with taking apart the carb w/o having to replace all the parts, but if it hasn't been rebuilt in a while, I'd just order a Mikuni rebuild kit and rebuild it. You can check if you're getting fuel to the carb. and that it's pumping by pulling off the return fuel line and cranking the engine: you should see fuel spurt out of there after a few cranks.
 
what he said. also don't try to go cheap on the rebuild kits, you'll just end up causing yourself more headache. also clean or replace your fuel selector switch. i've redone the same ski you've got, its a great ski and will not give you any problems once you get it striaght.
 
I think I made the mistake of going with the cheap kits... I thought they were Mikuni because it said "Mikuni" somewhere in the description, but when they came, they were in some generic package with an off-brand logo. The ski's never really ran perfect, just good enough... and to get them perfect is still on my to-do list. If you get the after market kit, you'll never know if you can rule out the carb-kit quality as a culprit or not...
 
Thanks for the posts,

I replace the fuel lines. I wanted to trace the line to the carb first, before getting the rebuilt kit. I have one more question.

How can I tell if the sending unit is bad? I pulled the lines going to the shutoff value, when I try to start the Doo, I get NO fuel from the lines. Does that mean the sending unit in not sending any fuel?

Thanks,

Ed
 
Thanks for the posts,

I replace the fuel lines. I wanted to trace the line to the carb first, before getting the rebuilt kit. I have one more question.

How can I tell if the sending unit is bad? I pulled the lines going to the shutoff value, when I try to start the Doo, I get NO fuel from the lines. Does that mean the sending unit in not sending any fuel?

Thanks,

Ed

no you have to re-prime the system.ether suck fuel from the feed line to the carb or take your flame arestor off and hold a plasic bag over the carbs to add more sucktion.
 
using choke should work just fine, it'll just take some cranking. If you think your fuel selector valve is clogged, take some hose, plug into your inlet port on the carb and stick the other end into a tank of fresh gasoline and crank the engine with the choke pulled out. (I used a cheap inline filter when I did this to make sure I don't suck up debris from the gas can). To really make sure you're getting fuel to the carb, pull off the return line hose and watch for fuel coming out of it. Once you see fuel start to spurt out of the return nipple, your carb is primed. BE CAREFUL NOT TO START A FIRE, ALWAYS KNOW WHERE THE CLOSEST FIRE EXTINGUISHER IS WHEN PLAYING WITH GASOLINE. I hear they don't allow SeaDoos into the burn ward.
 
IDoSeaDoo,

My seadoo won't start. I replaced all the fuel lines, and still won't start. So I wanted to see if I'm getting any fuel from the tank to selecter value to the filter to the carb. I pulled the selecter value and blew air through it. It doesn't seem to be clogged??


Should the gasoline be mixed?
 
no, gasoline shouldn't be mixed, there is an oil injection pump that mixes it for you, so why don't you make sure that your ski starts with fresh gas. Just get a section of 1/4" hose form any auto part store (and if you want, a cheap little inline fuel filter to make sure you don't suck up any crap from your gas can), plug that hose onto your carb inlet nipple and disconnect your carb's return nipple. Stick the end of the inlet hose into a gas can with fresh fuel and place a rag or something to catch the fuel when it spurts out of the return. Crank until you see fuel come out of the outlet (or until she fires up). Once you verify that the carb pumps fuel, then you can work back and find out where your clog is.
 
thanks IDoSeaDoo,

That is what I was wanting to do, I currently have everything needed to pump out of a side tank. I will give it a try! Thank you for your input it has been very helpful!
 
Hello IDoSeaDoo,

I did what you suggested,
* I took a 1/4" fuel line, with a filter, and stuck it the gas can with fuel.
* I then sucked the fuel up through the line into the filter,( by mouth :0) and hooked it to the input of the carb.
* I took off the output line, pulled the choke and tried to start the seadoo. It would never suck any fuel into the carb. and I never had any fuel come out of the output port of the carb. ( there was air coming from the output port, but not fuel).

thanks,

Ed
 
Sounds like an internal carb leak

So it seems that you're not sucking fuel. If you've checked your pulse line for cracks and have found none, then I'd say the problem lies in the carb itself. It sounds to me like either the needle is stuck in the seat, a very clogged internal filter, or the carb is internally leaking, and sucking air rather than fuel. The needle/seat (N/S) is easy to check. Once the carb is removed, take out the four phillips head screws that hold on the thin square piece of metal that looks like a cover (with a small hole in it). This will expose the diaphragm. Carefully pry it out and you'll see the N/S. If your needle is stuck in the seat, you won't be able to pump any gas into the carb. Using the correct pitch phillips head screw driver, remove the little screws that hold the lever arm and remove the needle. Inspect for wear along it's sides. Equally importantly, inspect the seat (the bronze barrel that the needle slides into). Check it for wear on the cylinder walls. If worn replace. If the diaphragm is hard and dried out, I'd buy a genuine Mikuni carb. rebuild kit (they're not very expensive), and carefully go through and replace all the old gasket components. I will clue you in to the fact that the N/S does NOT come with a carb rebuild kit. They can be attained for $20 at most places, like shopSBT.com. NOTE: do not use pliers to grab the N/S by the it's cylinder wall. This will damage the wall, and permanently ruin the N/S. I usually take the carb apart and apply compressed air to the back of the N/S, holding my hand to catch it as it shoots out :)

To check the internal filter, the other side of the carb must be removed. If you don't plan on replacing components, I'd be very careful to remove these as gently as possible. The filter is a small, plastic basket that sits in a hole on the main carb body, directly opposite of the N/S.

If I were you, I'd just get the new carb kit, and the N/S and just rebuild the carb, it's not hard. Just make sure it all goes back together the way it went apart. If you do decide to rebuild, reuse your old N/S spring so you would keep the same pop-off pressure.
 
under neeth the flame arrestor(air fillter) there is 3 lines on you carb. the two on the side running up to the front of the ski for fuel. then there is a third line. it says "pulse" on the carb cover, it runs to the crankcase, close to RV housing.
 
A update to problem !

I took off the carb, took it a apart, clean it out the best I know how. Put it back on and now the carb is sucking fuel !! WOW !

I sucked fuel from the tank to the carb, and it will fire up now....ONLY with the throttle half pushed??? It wont stay running! Any ideas ?

Thanks for your help!
 
Hello IDoSeaDoo,

I have NO idea, How can I tell what they are set at? What should they be set at?

Thank you for all your great HELP!

Ed
 
To tell where the high/low settings are, you just VERY CAREFULLY turn them in until they bottom out. Don't screw them down real tight or you'll mess up the tip/jet. Count how many revolutions it takes, and that is the setting. You can google around for free seadoo manuals and it'll tell you how to do this. Your high speed screw may have a plastic restrictor cap on it that lets you turn in/out only 1/4. If that's on there, it doesn't necessarily mean that you're only 1/4 turns in/our, the last guy could have moved the screw and reset the restrictor on a different setting. I would get a manual and compare with teh specs there.

As for a source of rebuild kits, I think SBT sells mikuni kits. Make sure you buy Mikuni and not the crappy off brand.
 
To tell where the high/low settings are, you just VERY CAREFULLY turn them in until they bottom out. Don't screw them down real tight or you'll mess up the tip/jet. Count how many revolutions it takes, and that is the setting. You can google around for free seadoo manuals and it'll tell you how to do this. Your high speed screw may have a plastic restrictor cap on it that lets you turn in/out only 1/4. If that's on there, it doesn't necessarily mean that you're only 1/4 turns in/our, the last guy could have moved the screw and reset the restrictor on a different setting. I would get a manual and compare with teh specs there.

As for a source of rebuild kits, I think SBT sells mikuni kits. Make sure you buy Mikuni and not the crappy off brand.

x2 on this. also make sure your carb is sealing to the intake correctly, you could be sucking air from there as well.
 
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