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wont rev all the way

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stevenf

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Get the thing in water and I am at full throttle only moving 5mph. Sounds like random mixtures but I feel a jerk in the rear end. It has a brand new wear ring. Both plugs are black, one is wet. No leaks in exhaust gaskets. Was running fine before all this hit at once...
 
Update: Before I brought it in the water last night it was very responsive to the throttle and seemed to rev fine. However, there were no beeps when I put the key in. I went out side earlier and (out of the water) it wouldnt rev all the way. A few hours later I put the key in and it beeps twice. This is the first time it has beeped twice with the key since I got it. Do you think the key switch would cause all of these problems?
From what I have read it seems more like the rectifier has an issue. It does have lots of corrosion around the metal.
 
do you still have the grey fuel lines? this is the exact problem they couse. the beeping issue is just the beeper, they come and go until they finally just die.
 
Another update for thoughs that are following.... I cut the red wire to the rectifier and the ski now idles in the water without dieing, but still bogs with any acceleration.

All fuel lines were replaced with Carb rebuild.
I'm really just looking for suggestions on what I should try next. I don't see it being a fuel pump problem because it runs like a top out of water and it was running perfect before the very second this problem kicked in.
 
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have you replaced those black(fouled) plugs? that could be the only issue, i'd start there. if that does not work see below...


where they rebuilt with oem muniki kits? did you replace the needle and seat when they where rebuilt? i'm 90% sure (if the plugs do not solve your issue) you have a fuel related issue, due to the fact you said it will run fine unloaded(on the trailer) and not at all with the pump under load(in the water).
 
I didn't replace the plugs. I scuffed them down with some sandpaper and wire brush with Carb cleaner. Out of the water it starts and has good throttle response. It still doesn't seem like its going highest rpm at full throttle.
Nearest boat launch is 30-45 minutes away, any other simple stuff I should look at before making my 10th failed trip...???
If it wasn't mikuni parts in the rebuild, I assume only the fuel pump diaphragm would be the issue?
 
Change the spark plugs then turn the fuel selector to res and try that my fuel res is mess up and the only way it would run last week was on res
 
check and clean your rave valves, do a compression test, check ht leads and if needed cut back a couple of cm's, on the carb rebuild did you replace the little internal fuel filters?, did you replace the hoses correctly, definately replace plugs-for the sake of £2 its a win win situation.

when you rebuilt carbs did you use the correct size spring for needle/seat, did you flush jets on carbs? did you adjust low speed and high speed screws? you may have an air leak somewhere causing to flood carbs with fuel causing the bogging-did you put correct base gaskets on carbs and were they installed correctly-as sometimes they will move slightly-same for the exhaust gaskets.

iff all that has been been done and checked and been done correctly-it must be elctrical related-or a possible leak in crankshaft gasket
 
this really sounds like a bad/leaky needle and seat too me. it sounds like a classic case of cut cornors when rebuilding the carbs. i can not tell you how many customers i've had bring me a ski that was re-done with aftermarket rebuild kits or they did not replace the needle and seat while they where in the carb because they wanted to save the extra 30 bucks.
 
I will check all of the external things first before breaking down the carbs. The carbs were rebuilt by someone else so I'm not sure on the parts used. However the other ski he rebuild the carbs on runs perfect.
Would it be likely that the needles would cause issue after running perfect for almost 2 hours and the get stuck open?
 
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