Winterize, dealer or DIY?

[Joe Starbuck]

Sad times in the Northeast because winter is coming in another eight weeks (I own several sweatshirts). I have a price for service/winterize/wrap/store my boat (2102 Challenger 230, twin 215’s). It’s a lot of money. I’m debating doing it all myself. What are your thoughts on this? I know some people have no choice because nobody will work on their boats, but I have a legitimate dealer.

 

[Macker29]

If the price doesn't put too big of dent in your bank account, I would have the dealer do it. They do it all of the time and have all of the things needed to do it right. Sounds like you have a good shop to work with, so the convenience is worth every penny to know that it will be done right.

I have them change the oil as well. Also, every year I have them do something new as well just for preventative maintenance (plugs, coolant, grease in the pump, etc..) Last year it was the plugs, this year will probably be the coolant.

Its not the cheapest route, but it gives you peace of mind when the next season starts that your boat is ready to go.

 

[ZRX Guy]

I just keep mine covered and under cover. Change the oil/filter and wipe the seats down with preservative. As for pumping RV antifreeze through the exhaust, the last several years I just til the boat up and run the engine for less than a minute different days and that seems to boil out the left over water. I'll actually start it up about once a month for less than a minute to move the oil around. One thing I don't like is the residule water that sits in the bilge. I have to find a better way than towels to get it out. Don't have to fog the engine, but some might say those short bursts of starting create moisture. Don't have a problem myself. Only issue I have are the mice.

 

[DooGuy]

I winterize myself. Usually takes about 20-30 minutes. Super easy. I fog the engines using fogging oil as it’s going to sit for 5-6 months, pump in rv antifreeze about 1.5 gallons per engine to keep the intercoolers from having issues with the cold winters in the PAC NW. And pull my batteries and put on a tender. I’m lucky as have a friend’s barn I store in for the winter, so I dont need to wrap. I do my oil and new plugs etc in spring time. Winterizing is about $20. Msg and can walk thru how to do rv fluid and fogging etc if interested.

 

[Joe Starbuck]

I just keep mine covered and under cover. Change the oil/filter and wipe the seats down with preservative. As for pumping RV antifreeze through the exhaust, the last several years I just til the boat up and run the engine for less than a minute different days and that seems to boil out the left over water. I'll actually start it up about once a month for less than a minute to move the oil around. One thing I don't like is the residule water that sits in the bilge. I have to find a better way than towels to get it out. Don't have to fog the engine, but some might say those short bursts of starting create moisture. Don't have a problem myself. Only issue I have are the mice.

I have a shop vac and a long hose that works great in the bilge.

 

[MacSeaDoo]

I winterize myself.

1.. Use a 12 pump to pump antifreeze through the system.
2.. fuel stabilizer
3.. fog.
4.. compressor to air side of external intercooler (you have an internal one, not needed)
5.. put a desiccant bucket in the boat.
6.. pull the battery.
7.. get it shrink wrapped.
8.. block it in the yard.

Done.

 

[DooGuy]

I winterize myself.

1.. Use a 12 pump to pump antifreeze through the system.
2.. fuel stabilizer
3.. fog.
4.. compressor to air side of external intercooler (you have an internal one, not needed)
5.. put a desiccant bucket in the boat.
6.. pull the battery.
7.. get it shrink wrapped.
8.. block it in the yard.

Done.

Do you shrink or take it in, have thought about. What sort of cost has it been to wrap? Fortunately have a friends barn to store in but at some point I will have to do something different.

 

[MacSeaDoo]

It costs me $215 to get it wrapped. I then store it outside in my yard.

Thought of putting it in garage, but my wife's vehicle and tractor are in there. Neither I want outside.

Thought of a cover but worry as we get high winds here and my yard is exposed. Don't worry with the shrink-wrap.

A guy does it about a 30 min drive from here. Drop it off one day and pick it up the next.

 

[Poormanracing]

I have a small repair shop in central ma I do repairs part time as I work in a mariner full time.im a 30 year sea Doo Yamaha tech.if you want contact me and gan give you a price and or help you thru it.not hard but there are things I do as a post and preseason tune up pet say.most places change the oil filter stabil antifreeze barely fog and done.i actually do stuff lol

 

[Poormanracing]

Sad times in the Northeast because winter is coming in another eight weeks (I own several sweatshirts). I have a price for service/winterize/wrap/store my boat (2102 Challenger 230, twin 215’s). It’s a lot of money. I’m debating doing it all myself. What are your thoughts on this? I know some people have no choice because nobody will work on their boats, but I have a legitimate dealer.

You can do it yourself it isn't hard.i work at a boat dealer and the problem is we just winterize them.meaning stabil fog antifreeze change oil filter.now a sea Doo dealers might do the whole process.i have a small repair shop where I do just jet boats and skis part time in central ma if you want message me and I can help you thru it

 

[Joe Starbuck]

I winterize myself.

1.. Use a 12 pump to pump antifreeze through the system.
2.. fuel stabilizer
3.. fog.
4.. compressor to air side of external intercooler (you have an internal one, not needed)
5.. put a desiccant bucket in the boat.
6.. pull the battery.
7.. get it shrink wrapped.
8.. block it in the yard.

Done.

I assume you fog through the spark plug holes as described in the manual, but do you also fog in through the air intake?

 

[Poormanracing]

I assume you fog through the spark plug holes as described in the manual, but do you also fog in through the air intake?

Not a fan of fogging thru intake unless you go thru throttle body.you do t want to coat the intercooler with oil.less efficient.but it is good to coat throttle body with a light coat of oil if used in salt watet

 

[MacSeaDoo]

I assume you fog through the spark plug holes as described in the manual, but do you also fog in through the air intake?

I do both. Fog through fogging port of the throttle body in drown mode. Then do each cyl through the spark plugs

 

[Poormanracing]

I like pulling fuel rail and look at the orings around injectors.yhey have a tendency to get hard brittle and flat spotted.a little fog oil keeps them nice and soft

 

[Joe Starbuck]

I do both. Fog through fogging port of the throttle body in drown mode. Then do each cyl through the spark plugs

If there was a port for fogging at the throttle body that would be great. This picture is from the shop manual. Where can I find the fogging port?

 

[Poormanracing]

If there was a port for fogging at the throttle body that would be great. This picture is from the shop manual. Where can I find the fogging port?
View attachment 56778

Forgot what year had fogging port.on top of the engine plastic cover there would be a yellow cap on the throttle side front corner.not all 4 tecs came with fogging port

 

[MacSeaDoo]

Mine is a 2011 Speedster 150 255 SC. It has this port.

The one in the picture there is the electronic throttle body unit. Mine is not this unit as the 2012 was the first (and last) year for it.

An yes, never fog before the intercooler, only after it.

To be honest, the engine is lubricating the intake tract including the IC unfortunately unless you have a catch can though the PCV. For fun someday, pull off the rigid intake tube where and you will most likely see an oily mess.