Winterization

[Bluesalomon]

I just purchased a camco do it yourself winterization kit to be used on my challenger 1800. Someone told me that all you have to do is connect it to the lower flush port, start the engine, and let the antifreeze flow in using gravity. My question is, if the hose is connected to that port will the engine draw the antifreeze in or does an addition hose need to be connected to give it pressure?

 

[gacekj]

Bluesalomon -- check out this You Tube video -- this guy has a sump pump in his bucket to push the anti-freeze into the hose port. Not sure if same can be done with gravity holding bucket up off the ground??

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0rcON2QAJ_Q

 

[Bluesalomon]

Thanks! I watched the video and that's what prompted my question. Camco says it should work with a gravity feed, but I am skeptical.

 

[gacekj]

I also googled CAMCO and found a link to a video on Amazon related to their winterization kit. Shows a guy using their kit to winterize an outboard -- not using a bucket but a plastic container with a spigot attached - part of this kit. Check it out - may help. I may do same to my Speedster this winter.

 

[Bluesalomon]

If this works, it makes the whole process much easier. No clamping! FYI, I bought mine through Jet.com. If you sign up with them they will give you 15% off the first three orders. Mine was $35 including shipping.

 

[gacekj]

Thanks for the info -- post back with the results of how it went! Good Luck!!

 

[trdehmer]

Bluesalomon, what did you find out for the best means to winterize your Jet Boat - mine should be the same and I'm curious as well.

 

[Bluesalomon]

I will let everyone know. I plan on doing it next week. I did contact camco and they said it should work just fine

 

[trdehmer]

I'm looking at the owner's manual now, run the engine just for a bit once out of the water, then basically a funnel to pour RV Antifreeze in the flush ports up top (one for each engine) is all that is needed to be done. There are some hoses that need to be pinched off which all appears to be described in the owners manual. So, basically what I'm understanding is a person can stabilize the gas, fog their engine, then once all that is done winterize with a RV Antifreeze (that is o.k. for aluminum). Then last step squirt some more fogging oil into each cylinder. Remove battery (or I think many just remove cables from battery).

 

[racerxxx]

Here you go, I made a thread years back. I just don't get why guys buy this and that. All you need is a few low dollar items and just let gravity do it's work. No pumps to store, clean and keep track of.

https://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?57271-1999-Speedster-Winterization

Just so you know he's got a 4 stroke not a 2 stroke. His engine cooling system is a closed loop system, meaning it is like a car. He's basically winterizing his exhaust cooling system. You'll need to use enough antifreeze to fill the engine cooling on the 2 stroke and you'll wait to see it come out the tell tale line by you're rear tow hook. It should only be a 1/2 gallon the factory way (the way I show), so if you use more than that it's a waste.

 

[Bluesalomon]

Thank you for your input

 

[trdehmer]

Here is a question - I plan to use some RV Antifreeze no matter what, but is there any issue blowing compressed air through the system first via the flush port?

Also, I plan to change both oil filters - do I need to bleed the system of air bubbles or otherwise after changing the filters - or will just running the engine for a short bit get the oil back through the entire system?

 

[racerxxx]

There is no need to blow air thru. I mean if you want you can, but you're not really moving much water, just wasting time really. The cylinders have a drain line towards the bottom which get most of the water out of the engine. So the water will be in the pipe (walled jacket) and would possibly come out. RV antifreeze is slightly heavier than water, so it will push the water out and mix with it as well. I watch the drain line off the exhaust mani and I watch water stream out and then see the antifreeze flow and I stop. The service manual just does gravity feed, no air before hand.


Yes, you will need to bleed the lines and the pump. There is a small bleed screw on the oil pump. DO NOT REMOVE IT, just crack it loose. there are super small crush washers on it. If you remove it and lose one you're S.O.L.

 

[trdehmer]

How do you bleed the lines properly? I understand the oil pump (and I’d think that would bleed the line out??), but will need to look at it.

 

[trdehmer]

So, based on when I changed the oil filters - I bled by just cracking the bleeding screws open for around 5 seconds or so on each engine. Plenty of oil came out. I drove it for a good 30-40 minutes after, didn't seize up so hopefully I'm good!

I did winterize it as well, make sure you have large enough hose pinchers - otherwise process was simple.

Unfortunately, I found out that my drivers side tuned exhaust was leaking in the notorious spot where they sometimes leak, I'll be ordering a replacement now so I have to pull the old one off, what a pain!!