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Whats idle suppose to be?
- Thread starter 4urmom
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sittin sidewayz
New Member
you literally just said the manual stated that.
Yes its right. 3k out of water
Yes its right. 3k out of water
4urmom
New Member
It does idle in water not very good though..LOL
jimmaki
Active Member
If you think the idle stop screw is hard to get to wait until you have to enrichen the low speed adjuster which you mostly likely will if you increase idle speed (more rpms = more air = needs more fuel).
JJinSC
Well-Known Member
The easiest way I have found on the XP (probably will help on the GSX too) is to take the black air box off, but leave the flame arrester on. This makes it much easier to see and get to the idle screw.
However, for my eyes to see, if you do have to adjust the LS too, take the arrester off and make small adjustments, and put arrester back on to crank.
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However, for my eyes to see, if you do have to adjust the LS too, take the arrester off and make small adjustments, and put arrester back on to crank.
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4urmom
New Member
I adjusted the idle screw with taking the front cover off and using a telescoping mirror (LOL) and got it to 2800RPM on both machines..they both running good for now and they both start right up without giving gas, how would i know if i have to adjust the mixture screw if they are running ok? should i just leave it alone?
jimmaki
Active Member
You really can't tune the carbs on the trailer ... well, it can be on the trailer but the pump needs to be in the water. Also try letting it run for a while at whatever settings get it to spec and then check transition off idle. If you make a change idle for a while and repeat.
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Double check your oil pump alignment marks too as this will change with the idle adjustment.
I wouldn't worry about your low speed carb screws until you have a chance to ride it. Typically the stock setting on a stock ski is perfect regardless of idle adjustments.
I wouldn't worry about your low speed carb screws until you have a chance to ride it. Typically the stock setting on a stock ski is perfect regardless of idle adjustments.
4urmom
New Member
Ummm!!! How do I check that? Still learning. Thanks
4urmom
New Member
Got it!!!! Thanks:thumbsup:
4urmom
New Member
Jimmaki, Now that i adjusted the idle screw and got the RPM to where it should be it fluctuates from 1100-1500 in the water and sometimes its steady around 1300RPM so if i stop in the water wait about 5min and start it up again i have a hard time starting it back up again i have to give it a lot of gas then it ends up foulong the plugs. why is this?
Spimothy Leary
Well-Known Member
the common answer would be leaking needle/seat 2nd choice might be the diaphragm. it gets more complicated from there, but that's where i'd start.
its a relatively frequent issue considering age and unfortunately no simple workaround that skips pulling the carbs, but i've certainly dealt with it before for a few rides but eventually it has to be addressed or just continue to be a nuisance.
i've had a couple 787's like that and its very very frustrating when they run well but your always wondering after a short break if the ski is going to start playing games with you sometimes yes, sometimes no. (it always seems to be yes when your 15 miles from your trailer, not at the dock)
one gsx I had for about 4 months did that and it had a knack for leaving me hanging when everybody had to wait for me, but always ended up eventually starting at some point so it never brought me to the tow rope stage.
its a relatively frequent issue considering age and unfortunately no simple workaround that skips pulling the carbs, but i've certainly dealt with it before for a few rides but eventually it has to be addressed or just continue to be a nuisance.
i've had a couple 787's like that and its very very frustrating when they run well but your always wondering after a short break if the ski is going to start playing games with you sometimes yes, sometimes no. (it always seems to be yes when your 15 miles from your trailer, not at the dock)
one gsx I had for about 4 months did that and it had a knack for leaving me hanging when everybody had to wait for me, but always ended up eventually starting at some point so it never brought me to the tow rope stage.
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jimmaki
Active Member
Sounds like fuel is getting by your needle/seat when you're stopped and pooling fuel in the crankcase. When you start by giving a lot of gas (holding the throttle open) the surplus of fuel in the crankcase is updrafted into the cylinders partially as a liquid and can foul the plugs.
By doubling the idle speed with the idle screw ... I'm interpreting that to mean you used the idle stop screw? Idle is adjusted using a combination of the idle stop screw and the low speed adjuster screw.
As idle speed is increased with the idle stop screw, the engine will use more air and will need a corresponding adjustment in the amount of fuel. You shouldn't adjust idle using just one or the other.
Your idle fluctuation is most likely because the engine is running lean. Normally you adjust the low speed adjuster.
But since your needle/seat is probably leaking, rather than chase this around, I'd pull the carbs and rebuild them using Mikuni oem parts including new oem needle/seats, seat O-rings, diaphrams, etc. and getting everything to spec including pop off and default turns out on both adjuster screws. After reassembly, run pressure tests by blocking off the returns and seeing how long the carbs will hold 5 psi.
Start from factory specs and tune from there, with the pump loaded.
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4urmom
New Member
JJinSC
Well-Known Member
I'm not quite as familiar with the 96 GSX, but usually it is under the rub rail right next to the water outlet of the tale tell (pee hole). The hose that comes from the vent nipple on the fuel baffle (top of fuel tank) will have a T in it. One hose that leaves the T usually goes to top of hull some where and let's air in but not out to prevent negative pressure from consuming/ reducing fuel level. The other hose goes to the pressure relief valve which as I stated usually just below the rub rail. This one lets air out but not in to prevent positive pressure from reaching a level that will pop off your pop off valves in the carbs when they are not suppose to.
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