What have I done?!? 96 spx

[Notwealthy]

Hello everyone, just picked up a 96 spx and a 95 gtx. Never owned pwc before, so I started researching how to winterize and stumbled on the youtube video involving bucket and sump pump technique. Yesterday I did the 96 spx and started ski then pump, let run for about 10 sec watched antifreeze flow out back, then cut off ski FIRST!!! Turned off pump 2 seconds after. OMG!!! I had a lapse of concentration being new to all this. I immediately started the ski with pump off for 5 sec. just to see if it would. It did start, but what do i do now? Will everything be o.k. in spring? Yes i fogged engine and cylinders too.

 

[racerxxx]

You're fine. Nothing to worry about. Congrats on the skis!

 

[AKnarrowback]

Live and learn.

If you have a doubt just pull the plugs and see if there is any water on them. 99.9999% chance you dodged a bullet and are good to go.

 

[Notwealthy]

What a relief... I certainly did not expect that for an answer considering how everyone stresses how not do screw up the order. Thanks guys! I'll get to sleep with my eyes closed tonight. Keep an eye out, I'm starting another thread real soon involving the other ski that is going to exploit my mechanical shortcomings.

 

[Lake Sailor]

Hmmm, reading this, a question occurred to me. We all know it is fatal to flood the motor with water, because of rust. How about pure antifreeze? Either ethylene (Auto) or propylene (RV). Do these cause the steel to rust?

 

[mikidymac]

Hmmm, reading this, a question occurred to me. We all know it is fatal to flood the motor with water, because of rust. How about pure antifreeze? Either ethylene (Auto) or propylene (RV). Do these cause the steel to rust?

Are you "asking for a friend"? LOL.

 

[Ckrawiec]

Hmmm, reading this, a question occurred to me. We all know it is fatal to flood the motor with water, because of rust. How about pure antifreeze? Either ethylene (Auto) or propylene (RV). Do these cause the steel to rust?

"FATAL" is such a strong word......my '96 was submerged for an indefinate period of time over the Winter months (cradle support in the boathouse broke and dropped her in the water with drain plugs out).....I found her nose up in the water in the Spring, resurrected her and that was years ago and she still lives today (I did not take the engine apart either), we just finished her 2020 Summer season (with some carb issues - nothing unusual for a 24 year old ski).

 

[AKnarrowback]

Old timer snowmachine theory is "if it gets sunk leave the motor full of water until you can get it started". The idea was as long as the wet steel was kept out of contact with the air it could buy you some time if you can't work on it right away.

 

[Lake Sailor]

Yeah, what I meant was to flood the motor with water and not dry it properly.

So how about antifreeze? Any experiences, opinions or just plain guesses?

Ckrawiec, I'd have to believe water didn't enter the motor, yes?

And no, mikidymac, no "friend", just wondering...

AKnarrowback, I could believe that but I wouldn't want to test it ,

 

[mikidymac]

In theory regular antifreeze has corrosion inhibitors so one would think it would work. Not sure about RV.

 

[Ckrawiec]

Yeah, what I meant was to flood the motor with water and not dry it properly.

So how about antifreeze? Any experiences, opinions or just plain guesses?

Ckrawiec, I'd have to believe water didn't enter the motor, yes?

And no, mikidymac, no "friend", just wondering...

AKnarrowback, I could believe that but I wouldn't want to test it ,

Oh NO....there was LOTS of water in the motor...the engine was completely submerged for I don't know how long and water filled the engine through the carbs. Once I pulled her out (the following week since I didn't expect to see my ski poking out of the water like a great white shark and I didn't have my trailer with me) and got her on dry land...I worked on all the electrical stuff (battery, solenoid, ignition coil, wiring, connections, everything), when that was all done I pulled the plugs and cranked away....she spit up for a pretty long time. Once the engine was just pumping air, a little Marvel Mystery Oil went down the holes and a little more cranking, etc.....then I worked on the carbs and was able to get her to fire once everything was put back together....then I ran her like I stole her (gingerly at first until she was warmed up), checking the oil, etc.....still runs to this day....my current favorite ski, strong and steady.......did I get very lucky....probably.

AS AKnarrowback indicates...there is definately old timer wisdom in that statement.....if she wet, leave her wet until your are ready to dry her out proper.....worked for me!

 

[Lake Sailor]

Amazing. Good for you

 

[thibble]

These old boats are a 'lot' more resiliant than you might think. My '94 SPX sat neglected for a few years, with the plug in. Hooked it up to move from NC to FL and the hull was literally full of water, engine seized. Pulled the plug, went through flooded engine procedure, poured oil down the cylinders, pulled it to FL. Remove head, tap on pistons with wood block, turn crank, repeat till it works. Other than having to rebuild carbs, it ran most of the season with ~140 compression. Now I'm doing 720 conversion on it

 

[AKnarrowback]

Yeah, what I meant was to flood the motor with water and not dry it properly.

So how about antifreeze? Any experiences, opinions or just plain guesses?

Ckrawiec, I'd have to believe water didn't enter the motor, yes?

And no, mikidymac, no "friend", just wondering...

AKnarrowback, I could believe that but I wouldn't want to test it ,

Wouldn't want to test it either. If I get water in a motor I get it out right now, I never let steel and water mix any longer than I absolutely have to. I had a friend who sank his indy 400, pulled it out and let it sit in the garage for a week before he got it dried out. On his first ride he was running wide open, 8000 rpm/85 mph, and his motor locked up so hard it ripped the rear motor mounts and deformed the case. There was rust damage on all the crank bearings when we took it apart and one bearing grenaded and locked the crank solid. I have never seen such as strong failure ever. He said the motor sounded like it went from 8k to zero rpm's in a split second. The inertia forces must have been incredible to cause the odd damage it did.

 

[thibble]

@Lake Sailor is 100% correct, once water is removed, purge/oiling process begins immediately. Aside from the SPX, my little 50hp outboard speedboat sank at dock. Left it down there until everything was standing by at the ramp, raised, pulled from water, and immediately pulled it the top end there and got everything soaking in oil before I towed it home. That was over 15 years ago and still going strong. Rust starts almost immediately when air hits.

 

[Lake Sailor]

AKnarrowback, wow, that'd be scary. To blow up a car engine is one thing, but in a PWC you're sitting on it, if you know what I'm sayin'

 

[mikidymac]

Tell the titanic rust doesn’t happen under water, lol.

In all seriousness I think everyone has been pretty lucky and probably had something to do with being completely full of fresh water.

In reality the best chance of survival is getting all water out and running as fast as possible and plenty of fogging oil after.

The bad thing is you won’t know the extent of the rust until you pull it apart and if a crank bearing goes it’s catastrophic.

 

[thibble]

Fresh water is a 'huge' factor. Yeh, retired Navy submarines, rust in water is real . Luckily I have never seen one of these two strokes send a piston straight up and give the rider a colon exam. Really bad blowups take out the cases, crank, jugs, sometimes damage head a bit.