Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
To pressurize the fuel line, you can disconnect the hose from the "ON" nipple of the fuel baffle and insert a plug to block off the hose. Then, place the fuel valve to the "ON" position and remove the fuel line where it attaches to the carburetor fuel pump. Pressurize the fuel line from the open end that was connected to the carburetor using no more than 5psi and watch to see if the pressure quickly decays. If no pressure decay then the fuel line is leak tight from fuel pump to fuel tank.
Confirm fuel line flow:
Remove the plug you inserted in the fuel line at the fuel tank baffle and apply a small amount of pressure at the carburetor end, this pressure should be released from the open end of the fuel line that normally should connect to the fuel tank baffle port labeled "ON". If the pressure is released as described the fuel line is leak tight AND flow is confirmed.
To test the baffle flow, connect a piece of fuel line to the open "ON" nipple of the fuel tank baffle and attempt to pump fuel from the fuel tank (This test is best done with ~1/4 tank of fuel remaining but more than 1/4 is acceptable if the tank already has more fuel than 1/4 tank). If fuel can easily be pumped from the fuel tank then the "ON" portion of the fuel baffle is confirmed operational.
If all above is as described, test is complete and successful, You may now reconnect the two disconnected ends of fuel line to their original nipple terminations.
I didn't read back through the entire thread but if I suspected the engine isn't receiving fuel then I would squirt 3~4 ounces of fuel+oil premix into each carburetor then attempt to start engine as confirmation of a fuel delivery issue. If the engine fires and runs fine for a few seconds, this confirms the engine is not receiving fuel and most likely everything else such as ignition system is in working order. If engine still won't run and cylinder compression is reasonable, the most likely culprits are carburetors or fuel pump is not functioning.
Are your choke plates and linkage operational? It might be difficult getting enough fuel enrichment to succeed starting up if they weren't working as intended.
Not sure what the dealer accomplished for you, thankfully they didn't charge you more for doing essentially nothing. Typically it's not a good idea to take a boat of this age to most dealers for anything beyond the most simple of repair, they're basically forced into the habit of charging you far more than the ski might be worth investing (BOAT = Bring On Another Thou).
The last time I intentionally used my fingers as an ignition spark checker was many years ago, tip of the hat for that one!
Confirm fuel line flow:
Remove the plug you inserted in the fuel line at the fuel tank baffle and apply a small amount of pressure at the carburetor end, this pressure should be released from the open end of the fuel line that normally should connect to the fuel tank baffle port labeled "ON". If the pressure is released as described the fuel line is leak tight AND flow is confirmed.
To test the baffle flow, connect a piece of fuel line to the open "ON" nipple of the fuel tank baffle and attempt to pump fuel from the fuel tank (This test is best done with ~1/4 tank of fuel remaining but more than 1/4 is acceptable if the tank already has more fuel than 1/4 tank). If fuel can easily be pumped from the fuel tank then the "ON" portion of the fuel baffle is confirmed operational.
If all above is as described, test is complete and successful, You may now reconnect the two disconnected ends of fuel line to their original nipple terminations.
I didn't read back through the entire thread but if I suspected the engine isn't receiving fuel then I would squirt 3~4 ounces of fuel+oil premix into each carburetor then attempt to start engine as confirmation of a fuel delivery issue. If the engine fires and runs fine for a few seconds, this confirms the engine is not receiving fuel and most likely everything else such as ignition system is in working order. If engine still won't run and cylinder compression is reasonable, the most likely culprits are carburetors or fuel pump is not functioning.
Are your choke plates and linkage operational? It might be difficult getting enough fuel enrichment to succeed starting up if they weren't working as intended.
Not sure what the dealer accomplished for you, thankfully they didn't charge you more for doing essentially nothing. Typically it's not a good idea to take a boat of this age to most dealers for anything beyond the most simple of repair, they're basically forced into the habit of charging you far more than the ski might be worth investing (BOAT = Bring On Another Thou).
The last time I intentionally used my fingers as an ignition spark checker was many years ago, tip of the hat for that one!
