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water in motor

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MPV

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I have a 2002 GTI LE, just had the motor rebuilt. Put a hose on it to start it and it ran fine. took it out, would not start, got home realized the gas was turned off. put a hose on it again prior to starting, and filled the engine with water. Now it obviously will not start. Turned it over for hours getting a littldwater out of the stark plug holes, but not all of the water. I think I have now burned up the starter as it will no longer turn over, it just clicks. How do I remove all of the water, and how do I replace the starter, or do I have to. New to this sport as you can tell, but sure need some help. Thanks Mike
 
You need to get that water out and running immediately or your new engine will be a rusted turd.

Verify the starter is bad and not the battery.
 
There is no reason to be running on the hose unless you are flushing salt water out and even then only for a minute or two.
 
I have a 2002 GTI LE, just had the motor rebuilt. Put a hose on it to start it and it ran fine. took it out, would not start, got home realized the gas was turned off. put a hose on it again prior to starting, and filled the engine with water. Now it obviously will not start. Turned it over for hours getting a littldwater out of the stark plug holes, but not all of the water. I think I have now burned up the starter as it will no longer turn over, it just clicks. How do I remove all of the water, and how do I replace the starter, or do I have to. New to this sport as you can tell, but sure need some help. Thanks Mike

Another thing that could be wrong is your starter relay, Part #4 in this parts list.
2002 Sea-Doo GTI LE, 5560/5561/6117 Rear Electrical Box | Fox Powersports Sea-Doo Partshouse

In my case the starter and starter relay were both bad / intermittent causing a very intermittent and difficult to diagnose starting issue. The contacts inside the relay can get corroded or burned. So when you try to start it, the relay clicks to position but the contact isn't made.

Good luck with the water issue! You'll get it.
 
There is no reason to be running on the hose unless you are flushing salt water out and even then only for a minute or two.

When flushing after a trip on 'fresh' water, do you need to run it on the hose for a few minutes or is 30 seconds or so sufficient? If you should run it longer, do you spray the pump with a soapy solution or some other place so not to burn up the carbon bearing? I've only run it for 30 seconds at a time max on the hose when flushing. I've read around not to run it for too long so you don't risk over heating the bearing. Any clarification would be great! Thanks!
 
When flushing after a trip on 'fresh' water, do you need to run it on the hose for a few minutes or is 30 seconds or so sufficient? If you should run it longer, do you spray the pump with a soapy solution or some other place so not to burn up the carbon bearing? I've only run it for 30 seconds at a time max on the hose when flushing. I've read around not to run it for too long so you don't risk over heating the bearing. Any clarification would be great! Thanks!
i just run more for a hair after getting them out of the ramp, it's summer. No need for it to be on the hose every trip, how I made the mistake of of somewater getting in my motor but ran it giving the motor time to cool down after that, new plugs and it is good to go. Also if you think you sucked up sand into your cooling system, flushing it on the hose has worked in clearing up anything that could have clogged it.

Just keep doing what your doing and you will be good. And no the soap wont cool it down, the lake will though.
 
There are only 2 situations to run it on the hose.
#1 flush out salt water.
#2 Flush out sand if you beach it a lot.

There is no reason to flush it with fresh water if you only run it in fresh water.

Anything more than a minute and you will not accomplish anything by flushing it longer and you will overheat the driveshaft seal.
 
There are only 2 situations to run it on the hose.
#1 flush out salt water.
#2 Flush out sand if you beach it a lot.

There is no reason to flush it with fresh water if you only run it in fresh water.

Anything more than a minute and you will not accomplish anything by flushing it longer and you will overheat the driveshaft seal.



I have removed the front cover and water is mostly drained out. but with the front cover off I can see sparks where the started meshes with the flywheel when I try to turn it over. I can turn it over easily with the spark plugs removed, but dont think the started gear and flywheel should by s parking. Do I need to replace the started the flywheel feels alright. Nd if so do I need to remove the exhaust to get to the starter? Any tips on replacing the starter? Thanks, MIke
 
It's a 2-stroke so the crankcase is open to the intake. You have to crank it with the plugs out then crank it more with your thumb over the hole to scavenge the water up and out into the cylinders. Only then can you put the plugs in and try to get it to fire but the plugs will probably get bridged with water a few times to take them out and blow them off. Eventually it will fire.

The front cover doesn't connect to the crankcase and water.
 
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I have removed the front cover and water is mostly drained out. but with the front cover off I can see sparks where the started meshes with the flywheel when I try to turn it over. I can turn it over easily with the spark plugs removed, but dont think the started gear and flywheel should by s parking. Do I need to replace the started the flywheel feels alright. Nd if so do I need to remove the exhaust to get to the starter? Any tips on replacing the starter? Thanks, MIke

Yes, something is major wrong if it is arcing to the flywheel.
 
How did you make out with the water in your motor? You get it started?

Also did you figure out what was causing the spark from the starter? Was it arcing?
Not started yet, I ordered a new starter. The spark is not an arch, but a friction spark fro m the starter gear teeth, I think . I am concerned about the starter replacement as it is so far underneath the exhaust, I cannot even see the starter. How do you get to it?
 
I know you are doing your best but the longer you let is sit with water the greater the chances of bearing rust and catastrophic failure.
 
Not started yet, I ordered a new starter. The spark is not an arch, but a friction spark fro m the starter gear teeth, I think . I am concerned about the starter replacement as it is so far underneath the exhaust, I cannot even see the starter. How do you get to it?

Sounds like the teeth of the starter could be chewed up causing the spark when it interfaces.

I’ve found that you need to be a contortionist to work on these. I think there are 3 bolts that hold it on. 2 holding it to the MAG housing and one in the back mounting bracket. If you’re certain this starter won’t get it running I would expedite shipment of a new one. Get it on there as soon as you can.

Start pulling the old starter off before the new one arrives to save time. Take a look at this diagram to see the bold placements.
2002 Sea-Doo GTI LE, 5560/5561/6117 Starter | Fox Powersports Can-Am Partshouse

Parts 19, 23 and 26 should show the socket size needed.
 
If it’s under the exhaust, I think you’re going to need to remove the pipe. It shouldnt take too long but could save you a lot of time and frustration to get it out of the way. It may be a good idea to get a new gasket if you’re removing the pipe as well.

On my 787 the starter is under the air box. It’s very easy to remove once that’s out of the way.
 
Not started yet, I ordered a new starter. The spark is not an arch, but a friction spark fro m the starter gear teeth, I think . I am concerned about the starter replacement as it is so far underneath the exhaust, I cannot even see the starter. How do you get to it?
Hey @MPV how did things work out for you get the engine started?
 
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