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WATER HOSE CONNECTION (Garden Hose)

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RocketMann

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Someone has installed the water hose connector onto the outlet side spout on the head. How is that supposed to cool the engine? Can someone explain this if it's right or wrong?
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The inlet comes from the pump to pump cool water in to the engine, the outlet drains the warm water out the back. When you flush a seadoo engine you back flush it, so.....it goes in the out. Your set up is spot on!
 
OK, thanks for clearing that up. It didn't make sense to me, but your explanation makes it clear. Thank you. I'm assuming this has diaphragm carbs, right? So maybe all I have to do now is to adjust the oil pump. I did get a look at the cable, and it is intact and moves freely with the throttle. Do you recommend me cleaning the carbs?
 
It depends on what is going on... You should replace all of the "grey tempo" fuel lines. They are grey in color, and have the words "grey tempo" written on them. The fuel lines were never designed for ethanol fuel, and the chemical reaction creates a green goo. This goo clogs your fuel selector, and the filters inside the carburetor. IF you have the lines, the carburetor needs to be cleaned to prevent a lean condition, and engine damage. Standard black fuel line will work. Make sure to use 100% stainless hose clamps.

IF you clean the carburetors, use OEM Mikuni kits. DO NOT use cheep ones. They do not work.


When you use the garden hose, do not turn the water on before you start the ski. Follow: Start ski -> Water on... Water off -> Stop Ski. IF you turn the water on before you start the ski, or after you stop the ski, you have a VERY good chance to hydrolock you ski.

Why do you need to adjust the oil pump cable?? At idle, there are two marks that need to line up.
 
Thanks much.
What I meant was I would check to see that the timing marks line up on the oil pump. It does have the grey fuel lines. I'll replace them for sure. One thin I am wondering about is there is quite a bit of fuel in the tank, probably nearly half a tank, but the fuel selector has to be on reserve for it to run, so maybe the lines gunned up the selector already. It starts real easy. I guess I'll get it on the water to see how it runs before deciding to rebuild the carbs.
 
Replacing the grey lines is a must. Also a carb rebuild. While you have the carbs off replace the 3/32 tygon oil lines. They get brittle with age.
 
[MENTION=41828]Minnetonka4me[/MENTION] has them. Replace needle/seat while in there and you should be good to go.
 
Replace the fuel selector too and the fuel filter. They go bad and leak air causing the engine to run lean and blow up.
 
I would replace the lines, selector, and rebuild the carbs BEFORE you water test. As stated above, those lines will clog the carbs up and the engine will go lean.
 
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