VTS Randomly Stopped Working.

[alindley]

So after all my problems finally getting fixed, I took the sea doo for a rip twice, right in the morning everything was working.

I went up to get some breakfast, then came back down an hour later, and my VTS stopped working, when it was working that morning.

If I open the seat amd hit the VTS, I can hear some type of electrical noise trying to do something, but wont change on the guage or the back...

 

[68ragtop]

I guess Im not sure what year you have, but Im assuming its the mid to late 90's style? Are you hearing just clicking, or more than that?
Usually if the motor seizes it will blow the fuse in the ebox. But, the relays will still click because they are powered from the mpem accessory power output. Do you have a volt meter, or test light you could hook to the motor wires?

 

[alindley]

I have a 2000 rx millenium edition. Pretty sure its just a click as if its tryna do sometging but cant. I have both, you have a link to follow ? And ill try this eeekend for aure

 

[68ragtop]

Intiall testing isn't too big of a deal. The VTS has two power sources. One that power up all the internal electronics, & a second that gives power to the motor. When the VTS power is availible, you will normally hear the clicks of the realys. If the trim level is near the center, you should hear a click for both up & down.

When you remove the VTS cover, just disconnect the two wires leading to the motor, if your VTS has been leaking (like many do) these connections might be a bit corroded as well as the motor. Put your test light or meter on the two wires comes from the module, & click your up & down buttons. You should get 12V each time you hear the click while holding the button in. I like the idea of using the test light becasue it puts a slight load on the relays in the event you have bad contacts within the relays. IF the light comes on, you more than likely have a bad motor. If there is no power on those leads, the second source of power to the VTS might have a blown fuse. it should be a 7.5A in the E-box. Now, if the fuse is blown, thats good news because it means your VTS might be ok. But, the bad news is it might have blown becasue you motor is bad, or seized up.

If it was me, I would do those tests, & also test the motor on an external 12V power source to verify its condition. Its basically a power window motor & has no polarity. But, I would take it out of the VTS unit to test it. Very easy to over run the motor & machnaically bind it up. (4) 10mm nuts & its out. When its removed, there is no limit to how long you run it. Just don't keep power applied if you just get a little spark & the motor doesn't move, cause that means its siezed.

If the motor is siezed, sometimes they can be taken apart & saved depending on how bad it is. Just depends on if the armature is rusted to the bronze bushings. The last one I did came apart & cleaned up nice. The one before that didn't & it went in the garbage can.

 

[alindley]

Awesome write up, I been stupid busy tho so I havent even had a chance to look at this. Im going out saturday to the beach and was just wondering if I can manually set the trim how I want it for now? I work till 5, then work at 9 so I wont have a chance to do a full check out between then.

 

[68ragtop]

If its close to center you can adjust the linkage rod, if its way off you can remove the motor & manually turn the worm gear & re-install the motor.

BUT, If you are used to where the VTS gauge sits when you get the best ride overall, I wouldn't touch the linkage at all, but rather just turn the worm gear until the gauge is in the place of your choice. make sure you double check where its at after you have the motor bolted back in & you should be good to go! (thats assuming your VTS unit is functioning enough for the gauge to work.)

 

[alindley]

If its close to center you can adjust the linkage rod, if its way off you can remove the motor & manually turn the worm gear & re-install the motor.

BUT, If you are used to where the VTS gauge sits when you get the best ride overall, I wouldn't touch the linkage at all, but rather just turn the worm gear until the gauge is in the place of your choice. make sure you double check where its at after you have the motor bolted back in & you should be good to go! (thats assuming your VTS unit is functioning enough for the gauge to work.)

hey so im finally getting around to fix this.. a year later...

i got the vts showing. when i popped the cover a little bit of water came out. it looks like all the wiring is pretty good tho, and the motor maybe the littlest bit of corrosion.

This is gonna be a dumb question, but where is the e box?

I cant find anywhere with fuses... I see the main electrical box?

 

[68ragtop]

Not 100% sure on a 2000 RX, but take a peek in the front of the ski. might have the style with the removable fuse cover. Water in the box is a sign of a cracked bellows on the outside of the hull. I think they only last a handful of years. The one on my 2008 was cracked.

 

[alindley]

the bellows are the little siphon tubes? i lost mine last year, and replaced them end of year

 

[68ragtop]

I forget what they are technically called in the BRP parts diagram. But its the accordion/slinky looking thing that is clamped on where the linkage rod comes out of the VTS & connects on the rear of the ski. They are cracked more often than not on older skis.

 

[alindley]

When you remove the VTS cover, just disconnect the two wires leading to the motor, if your VTS has been leaking (like many do) these connections might be a bit corroded as well as the motor. Put your test light or meter on the two wires comes from the module, & click your up & down buttons. You should get 12V each time you hear the click while holding the button in. I like the idea of using the test light becasue it puts a slight load on the relays in the event you have bad contacts within the relays. IF the light comes on, you more than likely have a bad motor. If there is no power on those leads, the second source of power to the VTS might have a blown fuse. it should be a 7.5A in the E-box. Now, if the fuse is blown, thats good news because it means your VTS might be ok. But, the bad news is it might have blown becasue you motor is bad, or seized up.

From my pics, it looks like the wires are just a bit correded, i went to seperate them just byu pulling them apart, but its pretty tough and I dont want to break the ends, do I just pull em apart or is there a trick to saving the connectors?
Just wondering, is the ebox where the MPEM is? I still have yet to find the fuses.

If it was me, I would do those tests, & also test the motor on an external 12V power source to verify its condition. Its basically a power window motor & has no polarity. But, I would take it out of the VTS unit to test it. Very easy to over run the motor & machnaically bind it up. (4) 10mm nuts & its out. When its removed, there is no limit to how long you run it. Just don't keep power applied if you just get a little spark & the motor doesn't move, cause that means its siezed.

If the motor is siezed, sometimes they can be taken apart & saved depending on how bad it is. Just depends on if the armature is rusted to the bronze bushings. The last one I did came apart & cleaned up nice. The one before that didn't & it went in the garbage can.

I am going to try this next, just has been raining the past 4 days so havent got to look since the weekend.

I had ALOT of trouble getting the VTS cover back on, does anyone have a tip? the main electrical box is well in the way, I'm pretty sure I didnt get it on at all, just was hanging there so Ill ruin the motor very fast at that rate




http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche...-ELECTRONIC-MODULE-AND-ELECTRICAL-ACCESSORIES

I believe this is the 7.5 fuse youre talking about. Can anyone direct me to where this is on the ski lol

 

[68ragtop]

From my pics, it looks like the wires are just a bit correded, i went to seperate them just byu pulling them apart, but its pretty tough and I dont want to break the ends, do I just pull em apart or is there a trick to saving the connectors?
Just wondering, is the ebox where the MPEM is? I still have yet to find the fuses.



I am going to try this next, just has been raining the past 4 days so havent got to look since the weekend.

I had ALOT of trouble getting the VTS cover back on, does anyone have a tip? the main electrical box is well in the way, I'm pretty sure I didnt get it on at all, just was hanging there so Ill ruin the motor very fast at that rate




http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche...-ELECTRONIC-MODULE-AND-ELECTRICAL-ACCESSORIES

I believe this is the 7.5 fuse youre talking about. Can anyone direct me to where this is on the ski lol

The connector will come apart, but they can be very stubborn & it is very possible to pull the wire out of them. I would try to carefully grab each end with a pliers & see if you can turn them a little before pulling them apart. Pull up the front storage box under the hood. I am not certain on the 2000 model, but if its like the later versions its in the very front of the hull & the 7.5A will be in there.

The VTS cover can be tricky. I use a silicone grease & lightly coat the seal. Part of the problem is if you replaced the outside boot with one that doesn't leak (I hope you did), its now air tight & the trapped air will try to push out the seal as you push the cover on. When I have one apart, I will leave a clamp off the boot so the air can escape. Much easier that way.

 

[alindley]

The connector will come apart, but they can be very stubborn & it is very possible to pull the wire out of them. I would try to carefully grab each end with a pliers & see if you can turn them a little before pulling them apart. Pull up the front storage box under the hood. I am not certain on the 2000 model, but if its like the later versions its in the very front of the hull & the 7.5A will be in there.

The VTS cover can be tricky. I use a silicone grease & lightly coat the seal. Part of the problem is if you replaced the outside boot with one that doesn't leak (I hope you did), its now air tight & the trapped air will try to push out the seal as you push the cover on. When I have one apart, I will leave a clamp off the boot so the air can escape. Much easier that way.

Thank you, I will definitely be trying this this weekend

 

[Pointhunter75]

Do not under any circumstance use metal hose clamps on the bellows boot on the outside of the trim! That's usually what messes up the boot and ruins your trim motor. Use the plastic gear clamps instead. Put grease inside the boot also.

 

[alindley]

So I found the fuse, it was blown, there was another 7.5 fuse under it so i put it in to see if it would work, nothing, i pulled it out and than it was blown too.

so that would make it seem as the motor is seized correct?