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Trying to tune my bone stock SPi carb - bog / hesitation issue

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risctaker

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I have a completely stock 95 SPi than has the familiar bog / hesitation issues on acceleration. I have read most, if not all the threads here on Carb tuning and I want to know if there is just an easy to follow carb adjustment procedure for a bone stock 2-stroke that has no modified jets, pop-off springs, etc, etc.(don't want any mods) I just want to get the stock machine running the way it should. The "sticky" Carb adjustment thread seems to be more suited to modified carbs. Anybody? Thanks Steve (risctaker)
 
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The old bog problem gets the standard reply:

If you have grey tempo fuel lines, replace them. Clean or replace the shut-off valve. Clean the water seperator filter.
Clean you carb, chances are the filter within the carb is plugged, which is causing your problem. If the inside looks bad, rebuild with a Mikuni kit.
Adjust the carb to spec, and fine tune as needed.

You can also replace the plugs, and trim back the plug wires 1/4 inch, but I doubt it is causing your problem. Most likely it is fuel related.

If that fails to cure the problem, do a compression test and post the numbers
 
Thanks. I'm new to SeaDoo ownership so assume that I know little at this point and need to learn a lot - fast. A couple of questions:
1. What's wrong with the "Grey Tempo" fuel lines?
2.Can I get the standard carb adjustment specs from this forum? I don't have a manual for the ski
3. If I search this forum, I'm assuming that there is a procedure for "cleaning the selector valve"?
4. Where is water separator filter located?
5. Where is "filter within the carb" located - take off carb end of fuel line.
6. Is there an online source of Spi parts that this group recommends?
Thanks!
 
Yep to the standard reply, NJ could mean salt water and that would mean corrosion as well, which if the
"bypass holes" have some small amount of corrosion in them then the flow will become restricted and result in a lean condition. Make sure to clean the gum from all these small fuel passages by shooting carb cleaner through both brass jets under the metering plate in the fuel chamber on the diaphragm side, watch on the inside of the bore as you do this to make sure the solvent flows from all of the holes. My SBN46i carbs have three "bypass holes", the idle venturi, and the main venturi and these are all clear.

My boat is bone stock as well and I intend on keeping it that way but still I had to fatten up the mixture beyond the factory calibration to eliminate the lean bog, only after confirming all else was tip-top. Different engine displacement and carbs entirely, similar design.
 
You guys beat me to it, anyways, good advise above.

Whenever an old ski is not running right, the first thing to do is check the compression, without knowing you have good compression you could be chasing your tail for a long time. Hook up the comp tester and hold WOT while cranking the engine, make sure you have a good battery. The optimum reading will be around 150 psi, anything less then 135 and you will have a hard time to get it running right.

Do you have grey fuel lines, if so they need to be replaced and the fuel selector, carbs and filters need to be cleaned.

Post your results and what you have for fuel lines and we can help you from there.

Your factory settings for your carbs are
142.5 main jet
70 Pilot
1.25-1.5 Low speed out
0 High speed
21-37 Pop off
 
I KNEW there was a reason I joined this forum! You guys are the best! Thanks! Any advice on the best parts source? Online?
 
Thanks. I'm new to SeaDoo ownership so assume that I know little at this point and need to learn a lot - fast. A couple of questions:
1. What's wrong with the "Grey Tempo" fuel lines?
2.Can I get the standard carb adjustment specs from this forum? I don't have a manual for the ski
3. If I search this forum, I'm assuming that there is a procedure for "cleaning the selector valve"?
4. Where is water separator filter located?
5. Where is "filter within the carb" located - take off carb end of fuel line.
6. Is there an online source of Spi parts that this group recommends?
Thanks!

Tempo fuel lines corrode and dissolve over time and will leave your carbs plugged full of junk.
You need the correct Bombardier service manual that covers your ski, the info in there is well worth having.
Your carbs are likely plugged internally with gum/goo/small particles of trash if not rebuilt within the past few years and if so, they will need to be disassembled and cleaned thoroughly before they have any chance of operating as they should. Lean bog is the symptom, and/or flooding.

A+++ on the compression test, I wrote the results on my cylinder head using a permanent marker, for future reference.
 
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My ski has a see-through external gas filter. Is there also an internal one? How do I access that to inspect and clean?
 
Both carbs have small internal filters, they must be removed and the fuel connection side disassembled in order to inspect these thimble-shaped filters. It's quite common for them to be plugged with gum and trash that eventually makes it's way through the external filters, especially if that fuel is delivered using the Tempo fuel lines.

While the carbs are off, disassemble completely and give ALL passages a THOROUGH cleaning with carburetor solvent chased with compressed air.

About the only thing you don't need to disassemble are the choke and throttle butterfly shaft assemblies, leave them alone!

Also, if the fuel lines have been replaced recently and carbs already cleaned thoroughly, then you could start with pressure and flow testing the fuel lines from the carbs back to the tank. Any pressure leaks or restrictions in the fuel line will also cause a lean bog condition, leaks will cause the fuel pump to suck air as it draws fuel from the tank, air bubbles in your fuel will cause fuel starvation and the symptoms that come with it, such as your problem description.

Grey Tempo fuel lines though, are your clue the fuel system needs a full service help.
 
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I believe you have a single carb setup. Google "mikuni super BN watercraft carburetor manual" there is a PDF you can download and it has a great drawing of all the component.

Ill leave the fine tuning to Sporter 2001, he is one of the better ones with carbs that I have seen on the forum .:thumbsup:
 
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