• This site contains eBay affiliate links for which Sea-Doo Forum may be compensated.

Timing a 587cc

Status
Not open for further replies.

SurfBeat

Active Member
After rebuilding my 587cc the past month and finally assembling the crankcases, I am now in the MAG area, getting ready to attach the ignition housing, stator and flywheel.

I read in my Clymer's (I'm tossing it after this project) that when the stator plate is removed, a mark is supposed to be placed on the stator plate and crankcase to facilitate alignment during reassembly.

Well, in consideration that I did not have the requisite tools to remove the PTO and flywheel when I began this project last month, (I do now/anyone in Riverside let me know if you need to borrow them) the shop that I purchased the crankshaft from removed the PTO and flywheel for me.

I see no marking, so I presume none were made, so today I face the problem of trying to figure out how to align the stator plate with the crankcase so I can get this project accomplished today!

I need some guidance on that issue.

Also, I can't find the timing mark on the flywheel.

What is it I must do to align the stator with the crankcase?

Then, how do I time this machine, a 587cc?

Finally, the 15 Allen screws that secure the stator and ignition housing were rusted, so, do I replace them or simply add some grease and re-use them?

I am keeping the Doo's, so, I want to doe everything right.

Thanks,
 
install the stator assy, so the "slots" where the bolts go, are in the middle...(bolts in middle of slots)

No timing of the flywheel, just install it, aligned with the woodruff key.
 
tb,

When I put some reading glasses on and used a flashlight I easily found tiny scribe marks, one on the stator and the other on the housing, so that choir was accomplished.

Before I received your reply I had already thought about simply securing the stator by aligning the washers to the marks on the stator, however, I thought, what if I am making a mistake, so, off went the thread.

This getting old sucks, (can't see anything without reading glasses) but I don't like the alternative.

tb, are you stating that I do not have to time my Doo, but merely screw in the Woodruff screw? (that was lost, so off too Malcom Smith in the morning.

If that is the case, then my question whether I can use a strobe light that is used for autos' to time my Doo is irrelevant?

And finally, I won't have to be concerned about looking for a scribe mark on the flywheel to facilitate timing?

If this is so, my engine goes in the hull manana and I am off to the River next week.
 
I am not a professional mechanic...but I believe,( and how I timed mine) that when you time your 587 you should have the mag piston @ TDC when you align the scribe marks that should be on the stator and the ignition housing. ( I like to put a spot of White Out) on the marks because they do get hard to see. put the stator on and the bolts loosely so you can turn it and get the right position then tighten them down. I would go get NEW SS hardware. You have it apart so do it right the first time. Wouldn't it suck to have one of those rusty bolts break and come loose an wipe out the whole ignition? The fly wheel can only go on in one position when you align the slot/groove with the crank slot/grove and the woodruff key. Hope that helps........For your ignition timimng.......
How about your rotary valve timing? Fun stuff...your shop manual should have the degree wheel in there to help you with that. It should also walk you through the steps.
 
Another day shot trying to find screws and bolts that the "mystery" fairy has run off with.

Anyway, when I found the scribe marks on the stator and ignition housing, as I rotated the crankshaft to get to TDC, I did not see anything move, so I wonder the reason that the MAG plug port has to be at TDC when securing the stator to the crankcase?

QUESTION: If I aligned both scribe marks on stator and ignition housing, is my timing set?

The company I bought my crankshaft told me not to fret about the 11 rusted screws that secure the stator and ignition housing to the crankcase, however, that seemed strange so as you suggested, I went out and spent $20 bucks on SS screws. As you pointed out, more wiser to do the task right the first time!

On Thursday I purchased a degree wheel ($15), however, when I got home and put my reading glasses on, a threw some light on the rotary to illuminate the area I noticed a scribe mark which is exactly where the rotary valve is to be positioned. That was $15 wasted, but maybe someone will have use for it at the River and I will be there to help!!!!

This is a sorry state of affairs, five weekends to replace a crankshaft; two of those weekends running around trying to replace the screws and bolts that the mystery fairy took off with.
 
Another day shot trying to find screws and bolts that the "mystery" fairy has run off with.

Anyway, when I found the scribe marks on the stator and ignition housing, as I rotated the crankshaft to get to TDC, I did not see anything move, so I wonder the reason that the MAG plug port has to be at TDC when securing the stator to the crankcase?

QUESTION: If I aligned both scribe marks on stator and ignition housing, is my timing set?

The company I bought my crankshaft told me not to fret about the 11 rusted screws that secure the stator and ignition housing to the crankcase, however, that seemed strange so as you suggested, I went out and spent $20 bucks on SS screws. As you pointed out, more wiser to do the task right the first time!

On Thursday I purchased a degree wheel ($15), however, when I got home and put my reading glasses on, a threw some light on the rotary to illuminate the area I noticed a scribe mark which is exactly where the rotary valve is to be positioned. That was $15 wasted, but maybe someone will have use for it at the River and I will be there to help!!!!

This is a sorry state of affairs, five weekends to replace a crankshaft; two of those weekends running around trying to replace the screws and bolts that the mystery fairy took off with.

the manual should have a degree wheel in the back of the book you cut it out. I wouldn't have spent 15 on that.....
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top