Testing Speedometer

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captain scale

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I have a 1997 GTX and when I first rode it the speedo inputs were erratic and gave an intermittant reading on both gauges. I suspected it was either a poor connection or a bad paddle wheel. I gave up on diagnosing the source of the problem for a while but now I'm back at it. I've never been satisfied with anyone's methods for accurately testing for proper operation so I did some careful thought tonight to find a sure way of testing it. It's so easy a caveman could do it, well as long as he had a 12V test light and some jumper wires.

Okay first I redetermined which wires went to what since there are 3 wires. One of them is ground (Black w/Orange), one is the temp signal (White w/Orange), and one is the speed signal (Purple w/White). You can test the temp operation by connecting an Ohm meter to the Black and the White wires and throw some ice cubes on top of the paddle assembly and instantly see the resistance value go up. To test the paddle operation take one end of your test light and hook to your negative battery post. Take the other end and hook it up to the Black lead on the sender pigtail. Then take a Jumper wire and hook one end up to the Positive battery post and hook the other end to the Purple lead on the connector. Depending on the postition of the paddle wheel the light will either be on or off. If you slowly rotate the paddle you will see the test light go on and off. If you give the wheel a spin you will see the test light flicker! I like this method because you don't need a voltmeter to test with and you can visibly see a response even in low light. I happened to be testing this tonight outside in the driveway!

I am happy to say that my sending unit seems to be working flawlessly so now I simply have to search for a poor connection in the wiring harness. I suspect it is somewhere at the front of the ski where the harness goes up into the hatch cover. That's where my last one had a problem. Those wires get bent back and forth a lot every time you open and close the hatch. They are also more vulnerable to water intrusion because the bow sometimes gets inundated if you crash through a wave or lean hard into the water in a turn!

It's interesting that the fuel guage and speedo use the same basic technology to generate a signal. The fuel guage uses a long circuit board with magnetic reed switches and a resistor for each along with a float containing a permenant magnet to generate a signal. I suspect that the speedo either uses a reed switch or a ferrous sensor as a switch and a magnetic wheel to generate it's signal, much like a crankshaft or camshaft sensor on an automobile.

So, I'm basically looking for a poor connection somewhere. But, with the help of my ohm meter I sould be able to track it down.
 
Aha! Now I see what's wrong! Just out of curiosity I decided to test my speedo again. Hmm, now it doesn't work. Maybe the ice melted from my temperature test and some water leaked down into the sensor through the epoxy? I tried to manipulate the sensor with a strong magnet and got no response but when I touched the epoxy on the sensor my test light flickered. then I pressed down harder and the light got stronger! So i definitely have a poor connection under that epoxy. If it's just water getting in and it works when it's dry then I'll just seal over it with some silicone. If it still doesn't work tomorrow after it's had a chance to dry out then I'l have to figure out how to apply a little positive pressure on the epoxy area, maybe by epoxying a small piece of aluminum or plastic into the cavity and clamp it down until it sets. Just trying to salvage an otherwise expensive part to replace! But at least I finally found the source of the problem.
 
Great post and info. Cant wait to see how it turns out. I'm going to follow this on my dead spedo. Just cant get back upnorth till next weekend to get at the ski. Thanks for the info again!!!!!!!!! CCC
 
The sensor seems to work more reliably once dry but does cut out intermittantly. I dried the unit off further indoors in the AC with a hair dryer. I used a small dremel sanding drum and roughed up the top layer or the epoxy and then made a small "L" out of some ABS plastic and siliconed it in place above the epoxy. I drilled some small holes on one side and opened them up to make a slot. I then slotted the other side. Then I made a bracket out of a narrow strip of stainless steel taken from a wiper insert which puts a little downward pressure on my plastic piece to give me better contact inside the sensor where I beleive there may have been a loose connection. I've tested the speedo numerous times with a test light as well as plugged into the ski to check for a signal at the guage. So far so good. Just putting some light oil on the paddle wheel shaft made it spin effortlessly and gave a smoother signal on the analog guage. Hopefully the silicone will seal any minute leaks that may have been present. I have a feeling that it will work for a while once installed.

I did manage to disect an old sender that was inop to see what's in it. I'm still trying to locate the parts in case I want to rebuild one. There is a thermister, the hall effect sensor, and either a diode or resistor. That's it.

http://www.patentstorm.us/patents/5369360/description.html

http://parts.digikey.com/1/parts/948160-sensor-ss-hall-effect-latching-ss461a.html
 
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Captain Scale

Mate!
You seem like you could solve the problems of the space race
Whats the chance we could bounce a few problems off you to solve our troubles.
I saw and read what you did for your own problems
I and maybe a few others would love to tap into your knowledge.
If I have a problem,may you be one of many that we can turn too
I have a real interest cause I have a gtx Ltd
Hope you have a great day
 
At first I thought the sensor only had 2 leads, but I saw a third peaking out of the epoxy. I think that the black wire went to one side of the thermister and to one of the sensor leads. The purple wire went to the diode and then onto the sensor. The white and orange wire went to one side of the thermister.

I found some diagrams.

http://courses.cit.cornell.edu/ee47...E 476 Final project report/AllegroPackage.jpg

http://hades.mech.northwestern.edu/...ffect_switch.jpg/300px-Hall_effect_switch.jpg

http://www.8085projects.info/image....cation connection circuit diagram_thumb_1.jpg

http://www.mccomsey.net/flashlight/hall-effect-circuit.jpg

http://www.electro-tech-online.com/...51914369-hall-effect-sensor-wiring-hall-2.gif

http://www.akemd-eu.com/images/gr-outline-11.gif
 
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I took one apart as well, I think its a zener diode...

Were you able to see how it was wired?

This diagram looks about right. http://hades.mech.northwestern.edu/...ffect_switch.jpg/300px-Hall_effect_switch.jpg



http://www.goldmine-elec-products.com/prodinfo.asp?number=G1994

http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=480-1999-ND

http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=1N752A_T50R-ND

According to Honeywell the bottom numbers are a date code, so they don't matter.

So I found the sensor and the diode. I'm ready to rebuild my own speed sensors!
 
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I did a little more research... the diode is a 5.5V zener (as best I can tell), the thermister is a 10K ohm and the hall affect sensor is, as stated, an SS41.

I asked a EE friend of mine to draw me up a schematic, I'll see what he comes up with.
 
97 Seadoo GTS Speed Sensor Diagram

I was able to dissolve the potting material and carefully remove (somewhat intact) a 97 seadoo gts speed sensor circuit. I identified each component and remade a working unit. Super difficult to get the new circuit back into the little space and I haven't found a suitable material to re-pot the assembly. It was more hassle than it was worth now that everything is partially done. But, it was a fun doing it and getting the speedometer needle to move during the initial test was awesome! I don't know much about electronics but I was able to put together a wiring diagram that may have errors:
 

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If you have a 3 wire pickup, the third wire yellow is for the lake temp. sensor, which is about as accurate as the lie-o-meter.

Lou
 
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