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Still not working right 96 XP 800

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Igeeky1

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The beginning...
got ski 3 years ago, it has never run right.
At first it started great but wuld never go over 10- 12 mph
have rebuilt carb, changed out fuel lines, changed oil, fuel, sparks

went trough a couple gyrations where it was really hard to even start (change springs in carb to differnte rating to fix. still doesn't start as easy as it originally did but does ok

So now am here.

Basically I'm running just one and a half to two turns out on the low valves. When more I was pretty sure it was flooding but yeah I've had them all over the place. Have tried, and am currently running hotter plusgs (6 insted of 7) tried running w/o spark arrrestor in case it was causing issues. Results consistant as follows:

Starts up and goes like a rocket at will. I start getting tired of holding on and slow a bit ...down to 25 ish, then drop down even further. Hit it to go again and it gets to about 10-15 mh and just stutters. (sounds alot like original problem eh? - only at first it would never take off)

so I go to shore adjust low end valves some, half turn up/down whatever tinker a bit. maybe 5 to 10 minutes max. Start it back up and think I've solved it because it takes off again. Well same thing happens, it is good for a bit and then won't go over about 12 mph again. Take to shore, tinker, repeat.

Then eventually swim the stupid thing or look for a tow because the battery is exhuasted.

Thoughts?
 
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You may have worn out crank seals, or the crank is out of index. Refer to your Shop Manual for how to test both.
 
If seals were bad, wouldn't I have water in my oil? Is indexing the same as testing for misalignment and deflection?

Thanks

Mark
 
i had the very similar issues with my xp. rebuilt the carbs, turned mixture screws all the way in and left them there, replaced fuel selector valve because it was sucking air and causing air bubbles in the fuel system. do you have clear fuel lines so you can see any bubbles? if not install a clear fuel line to the carb and look for any bubbles in the fuel, if you have any, check for fuel system leaks.
 
right now my only clear line is my primer. it definately has air bubbles but I don't know if that is normal or not. Hmmm...when I replaced all the fuel lines I didn't do anything with the selector. Maybe it is gummed up. Thanks for the heads up.
 
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If front or rear CS are bad, the engine will breath in there, and gas-air-oil mixture will not. index means its possible the crank twisted and the
pistons are not exactly 180* apart. the farther apart, the worse the performance. its easy to check. use a pointer above the pto flywheel, put mag cylinder at tdcand then mark. then repete on pto cylinder and compare. easy!
 
Cleaned baffle and selector today. Def had some issues with selector, not sure if it was scraps of the rubber inside or whate but it gave in to hpa :) Followed the trail to the fuel filter and found junk inthere as well (just cleaned it recently). guess that means I really should take off carbs and check those filters as well. Helix transparent yellow line on order to run from filter to carb and between the carbs to look for air bubles or junk or whatever.


Will do tdc test on both cylinders tomorrow. I saw in the manual how to do with guage etc, I like your way better :) I did not see how to do a test to see if your crank seals are bad though.

Which reminds me... is there any way the manual pdf can be unprotected so that I could try and have it recognize text? Then I could do a search and THAT would be nice.
 
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OK, well no gunk in carb filters. While not 180 only off by a couple degrees on the tdc for both mag and pto cyls.

Did find out something interesting though and maybe should start a new thread with it. Ski wouldn't start at all. I thought battery was maybe weak but found it to be good. Even with charger on "start" attached I could not get it to turn over. Tinker and played and finally found it would not turn due to back pressuer in pto cyinder. Remove mag cyl plug and still wouldn't turn, replaced and then removed pto cyl plug and over it would go. And spray and spay stuff. Definately fuel but almost seemed like maybe something else with a gray tone to it as well, not really sure. fuel slector was tunred off. Kept it turning and spitting/emptying for a long time. (pulsing of course as to not burn out started) Then could start.

Does that description bring any thoughts to anyone?
 
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hmmmm....


Well after I cranked and cranked to get all the gunk out of the pto cylinder it started happy. Took it to the lake and ran well (still starts a bit rough though).

So...I can only assume that the selector switch was the primary culprit.

Can't help but wonder about the pto cylinder issue though (both cyls tested right about 150). What is supposed to release the compression on a SeaDoo?
 
150 in both is excellent. Anything over 130 is alright and anything under that it is time for a top end rebuild. As long as the 2 are within 10% of each other you are good!
 
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