Stator Timing Process

[randomguy]

Hey guys:

I'm thinking ahead... I'm quite a ways from being ready for this, but I really don't know how I'm going to get my stator timed once I'm in a position to reassemble it. In the process of troubleshooting and disassembly, I foolishly took the stator off without marking it. I understand the basic concepts of how timing works and such, and I've read through the process that the shop manual lays out. But I'm left with some questions:
a) Do people really use the store-bought indicator bracket that the manual specifies, or another method?
b) I'll likely be using a depth mic to find TDC. So my understanding of the spec is ignition should be 0.112" below TDC with the crank turned CCW as viewed from the PTO flywheel. Do I have this pictured right?
c) Since the stator is hidden behind the flywheel, how does a guy make timing adjustments once the engine is assembled with the flywheel in the way?
d) My boat doesn't have a Tach. Is it really a requirement to time it at 6000 RPM?
e) Since I'm rebuilding the top end, should I really have it running at 6000 RPM before I've completed the break-in process? This seems to be a chicken and egg scenario....

This really seems overwhelming at the moment. Is there a simpler way to do this for a hillbilly farm kid with basic engine experience and a desire to learn?

 

[Dr Honda]

a) No. I use a DC timing light
b) With a light... doesn't mater
c) Remove the flywheel
d) Yes. You need a hand held tach
f) Doesn't' mater since there isn't a load on it. Just make sure you have good oil in the tank, and in the fuel.

 

[randomguy]

Well it seems that I'm not going to be able to borrow any of the hardware that I would need for this job because no one that I thought would have it does... So I'm probably going to have to have it done.

Anyway, I called a local outfit that works on these and he told me 2 hours, $130, and to bring the engine to him loose because they would "static time" it. I'm assuming that this involves putting the crank where it's supposed to be and adjusting the position of the stator until the output is hot. Natuarally, he didn't really want to tell me much about the process, but I'm a little confused.

Is this static timing possible and should I pursue it, or should I just totally avoid this shop and try an official dealer?

As an aside, I looked over the engine removal and install instructions that SBT offers. They don't even mention any required precision when bolting the coil back into the FW housing, or list any timing equipment as required tools. They pretty much just say to bolt it back in. It seems to me that the rotational position of the stator on the block is critical, but they don't even mention it. Am I making this too difficult?

Thanks!

a) No. I use a DC timing light
b) With a light... doesn't mater
c) Remove the flywheel
d) Yes. You need a hand held tach
f) Doesn't' mater since there isn't a load on it. Just make sure you have good oil in the tank, and in the fuel.

 

[Bills86e]

When you install the stator plate onto the motor it has two alignment marks at about 9'oclock, one on the stator plate, one on the engine cases. The marks have to be aligned. That sets the ignition timing position.

It is simple. Look for a line at the bolt slot on the 9:30 o'clock position of the stator when the stator is mounted so that the harness is in position to be clamped into place by the harness braket plate that goes on over the wires.

Now look at the left side of the case at the stator mounting area by where that 9:30 o'clock stator hold down bolt goes. See the line in the case ?

After you bolt the mag housing back onto the motor, place the stator in there so those two lines are alinged with each other and bolt down the stator. Bolt the harness bracket back on over the wireing harness from the stator. Place the mag flywheel back onto the crankshaft. Replace the mag cover. Your motor is properly timed.

Actually the "line" in the case is more of a "notch" because it is on the thin piece by where that slot goes. It can't be more than about 1/8th inch long.

At most, when I need to fit a questionable flywheel onto a crankshaft, I lap it in with valve grinding compound, clean it throughly and bolt it on, using a new woodruff key.
A blueing is applied to shaft to show the fit to the machinist during this action.

A machinist manual for taper fits will tell you that there should be no foriegn substances between the two tapers at all. Why ? because any substance will take up some space and the best fits are clean metal to metal fits. Appying The

Correct Torque is what melds the two parts from slipping. All Bolts torque are specified in your Shop Manual. Very Important to consult that.

A woodruff keyway is for locating the flywheel to the crankshaft position only.

Bills86e

 

[randomguy]

Thanks Bills86e. After looking closer, those marks ARE there. My mark on the stator assembly is actually on the edge of the outside diameter, not on the face and the mark on the case is very faint, but present. So I should just be able to bolt her right back up. Thanks again!