sp runs! driveshaft bellows spins? + what tube is this?

Note: This site contains eBay affiliate links for which SeaDooForum.com may be compensated
Status
Not open for further replies.
haha man thats alot, u have many of the same questions i had lol..

in no particular order, yes thats the lanyard - instead of a clip theres a bucket type rubber that keeps it down when running, this one had me stumped too lol.

that last filter by tank is fuel filter yes, not sure about the one at bottom, i reckon thats the water intake and they put a filter on it to keep sand etc out?

not sure about the ribbed black hoses lying in bilge..

and also not sure about the "should oring go here" - i cant see whats there..

the two lines at carb are both fuel lines - one is the in and the other is the return, i believe the upper is the return, so like many others do install a cheap 2 buck walmart plastic filter right before the inlet. when u remove the carb theres actually an in/out sign iirc.

There will also be a thicker tube connected to the crank case that runs underneath the carb to the carb as well, it uses the crank vacuum to pump the fuel basically.

also - those orange things are where u connect the plugs when u are swinging motor with plugs out for example (incase it got filled with water / or fuel from a needle carb leak) - it grounds them out so u dont accidentally have a spark down there somewhere and boom.

Also - those grey lines are VERY notorious for cracking up - replace those asap. Also go and buy a set of stainless hose clamps from home depot, pack of ten is about 5 bucks - after ripping off those insane factory things u can use human friendly hose clamps.

You will also need 1/4" fuel line. ebay sellers have 20ft packs for 20 bucks.. mine were all replaced by previous owner.

ALso - do buy original mikuni kits! many ppl have had issues with the cheap ones (likeme maybe) - mine is near impossible to start lol, despite carb passing checks. although i might have another issue.. once uve pulled that carb off the ski ull know why - the forward 13mm bolt is kinda tight! not sth ud wannabe doing each week -
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Wow!! a lotta stuff here ... I will go back to the beginning and try to answer the unanswered things on each post ... sorry if I repeat that already answered, just easier to go piece by piece

Rod
 
Yes the cap is over a special quick-disconnect fitting for reverse flush ... best to use hose crimper on output side of the "T" (toward exhaust).

I think what you saw regarding disconnecting hose ... this would probably be the alternate to using the quick disconnect by disconnecting the hose from the head (this is cooling output) and hook hose directly to it.
 
Camero Man... I have a lot of the same questions. Can you post some pictures of what you are talking about in your hoses and engine compartment? One of my hoses going out the rear is cut off and plugged. I believe the other line I have marked comes from the head and goes straight to the rear of the jet ski. Where WAS the point of origin for the other line. I have lots more pictures and question. Hope I don't bother you guys to much but I just want to get it right.

View attachment 39735



Cheers,
Gene
1996 Seadoo SPI



This setup is commonly referred to as the "pissers" for obvious reasons. One connection, as you note, goes to the top of the head. The other one typically goes to the top connection on the tuned exhaust. These indicate cooling water flow thru engine.
 
Pics of my engine compartment. I will post more when it dries up a bit from the rain. This is a 1996 Seadoo SPI.

Rear of the engine compartment blue line is the steering cable.

View attachment 39737

Not sure if below is some type of filter.
View attachment 39738

Is this the flush port and what do I need to connect? Can I install a quick connect on this line?
View attachment 39739

Cheers,
Gene
Pearl River, LA
1996 SPI


Yes, reverse flush quick-disconnect.

Yes oil injection filter.

yes, bilge pumps ... these loop high in the rear of the engine compartment then to the jet pump where pump action sucks stuff out of the bilge, check to insure they are not clogged occasionally.
 
I think I hit some of the stuff.

CamaroMan, I feel the pain of not being able to find a body of fresh water in CA where you can run 2-stroke PWC or any PWC.

I have not been in Long Beach harbor in a long time, but it is a huge protected area with the added fun of dodging large ships. I been in salt water forever and it just means some extra cleanup without delay.

Keep having fun.
 
CamaroMan, I feel the pain of not being able to find a body of fresh water in CA where you can run 2-stroke PWC or any PWC.
I have not been in Long Beach harbor in a long time, but it is a huge protected area with the added fun of dodging large ships. I been in salt water forever and it just means some extra cleanup without delay.

Keep having fun.

True! seems u know a little more about these things - I think the PO kinstalled a flush kit, theres a white T with a red cap and a green hose that clips on. When flushing do I need to disconnect anything else or just put the water on that green hose once the motor is running?

thanks!

yes kinda dodge here with the traffic, i wouldnt be venturing too far until this thing has proven itself - wd hate to get caught in some prop wash of a tug or something!

At least the launch is less than 5 mins from the house and very chilled :)
 
On the older ones like that you need to pinch the hose going out the back from the flush tee to force water into the engine.
Make sure the water is never on when the ski isn't running or you will force water into the cylinders.
Always.....
1. Ski running.
2. Water on.
3. Water off.
4. Ski off.
 
hi thanks for that - yes i got the sequence from the manual.. ok i never pinched anything, just hose her but i dont rev things on hoses - and ran her just about 1 minutes to clear salt water out.

Is there a tell tall of water circulation on these things or do i just look for water coming out at exhaust?

Here is a pic of my setup (ive seen a guy with the hose going into top of head?)

DSC_0615.JPG

Is this a flush kit I have or the standard original setup? I read the manual where it states if not using a flush kit to pinch the exhaust tube - want sure!
 
Yours looks correct but you need to pinch it towards the back so water doesn't just go out the back.
The pisser/indicator is typically the small hole right next to the rear tow hook on these older models.
 
You will have 2 pisser holes behind the rear tow-hook. One connection is to the top of the head, the other goes to the top connector on the tuned exhaust pipe; you should have flow out of both of them in normal operation. To be honest I have never checked these while doing reverse-flush but should have flow out of the one connected to the head and I do not think you will have enough pressure to lift the cooling level to the top of the tuned exhaust ... guess I will need to check next time.
 
The manual flows the one on the head pipe going to the stinger but Rod knows more than me on the older ones.
 
yeah when riding i saw 2 good streams shooting out the back - but on the hose nothing (although i wasnt pinching the exhaust hose mentioned above) - maybe if i do that itll circulate properly!

Anyways - mines near impossible to start from cold.. basically run the batt down! sounds like she wants to but soooo hard. Only after she gets going starting is easier - and she runs fine.

plugs seem to be wet when i remove them.. perhaps i should pull carb again and apply a few psi with fuel inline to see if it leaks down throat.

I bench tested it and pop off was at 29 and i replaced the needle and new diaphragm / etc..
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top