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Sleeve alignment question

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Dave83

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2002 seadoo RX DI

I sent these jugs off to be bored and new pistons. I got it back like this, the sleeves are out of alignment with the jugs. They were bored over 1mm. Question is will this hurt me running it this way what can I do about it. The guy I sent it to said it came from the factory that way and didn’t know I wanted it fixed
 

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Who did them? Did they install new sleeves? I just checked a pair of mine that are factory 100% and they have a small lip, less than yours.
 
Who did them? Did they install new sleeves? I just checked a pair of mine that are factory 100% and they have a small lip, less than yours.

Dan from Full Bore. Jugs came back as dirty as they left he said he just bored them and that was a factory defect. It was suppose to be a 2mm Bore got a 1 mm bore back. Biggest question is is that alright to run like that?
 
That’s the problem I lost the top end in it.
 

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And how many hours were on the cylinder? Was it a factory sleeve with XXX hours? Has the fuel system been serviced or was it from the factory? If you had an injector that failed and took out your cylinder that lip isn't to blame, especially if it was the one from the factory.
 
Jugs came back as dirty as they left
Yeah, he doesn't clean them beyond blowing air on them, he's done a couple 787 re sleeves for me on my two skis. But I always wash anything I get back from a machine shop. I dipped them in a bucket of soapy water on each jug before installing.
 
Ski has 54 hours on it. I’m not sure on the servicing of the fuel system prior. I have since serviced fuel system and oil system. Sent the injectors off and had them cleaned.

Yeah I’ll clean them up before installing I’m use to machine shops I’ve used for vehicles and blocks and parts come back looking new.
 
That’s absolutely normal and nothing to worry about. Seadoo is about as good as port match from the factory as it gets.

Look how bad Yamaha is.

24811936a290f2dafde8332ae856c94a.jpg


All fresh cylinders should be cleaned in solvent then washed in hot water with dish soap to remove all metal from the cross hatching. Then immediately blown with compressed air and just a tiny coat of 2 stroke oil to stop the flash rust. Don’t get crazy with the oil, just a tiny bit.
 
Don’t touch that port and all. Changing the port timing can cause big issues and you risk messing up the port chamfer and catching a ring.
 
That’s absolutely normal and nothing to worry about. Seadoo is about as good as port match from the factory as it gets.

Look how bad Yamaha is.

24811936a290f2dafde8332ae856c94a.jpg


All fresh cylinders should be cleaned in solvent then washed in hot water with dish soap to remove all metal from the cross hatching. Then immediately blown with compressed air and just a tiny coat of 2 stroke oil to stop the flash rust. Don’t get crazy with the oil, just a tiny bit.

Do you do machine work?
 
Nope. I have done some porting.

All my boring and head work goes to Group K, the only ones I let touch my engines.

Cylinders bored and honed to match pistons.
1d06fb088654fa29003423347af5b2af.jpg


Head cut and reshaped to bump compression.
edea6668c6ef82ec41d06d263bfebc76.jpg
 
Harry at Group K is the man. Check out his website, awesome reading.

He typically doesn’t have pistons or parts so I send him my cylinders and a note. Once he tells me what size pistons I need I just order them and have them shipped directly to him. Also he doesn’t take payment until the job is done.
 
So not to scare you but I do know Bill O’Neil who was one of the all time Seadoo Gurus and used to own Watercraft Magic said when he first started rebuilding the DI engines they couldn’t keep the new pistons from melting down. He came to find out that the OEM pistons were actually specially coated to survive the DI engines and the only fix was to only use OEM pistons. Now, this was years ago so I have no clue if the aftermarket caught on or not for the DI’s.

FullBore is a good guy so I’m pretty sure he would have said something.
 
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