Second battery install in Challenger 180

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dsm

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I put a second battery in my Challenger 180, just thought I'd post some pictures for those interested. I have noted that some have glued the second battery tray in with Liquid Nails, but I wanted to do something a little more factory, so I got an original tray, and installed it with screws just like the original. I put rivet nuts into the fiberglass for the screws to thread into. The rivet nuts are set into epoxy to give some added strength especially against twisting, and to seal the holes from water. Now I just need to swap the switch to the OFF-1-2-BOTH one that I already have and get and install cables and I'll be done.

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Thanks for posting. I'm planning to do the same thing to my Challenger. How did you put the rivet nuts into the fiberglass or did you simply epoxy the nuts directly to the fiberglass?
 
I bought a rivet nut installation tool. It was extremely difficult to use given the close working quarters and limited access through the hatch, but I managed to get it done. The key was to only use the last part of tools travel where it has the most leverage, and to repeatedly advance the tool onto the rivet and repeat. The fiberglass is not thick, less than 1/8 inch, so not much surface for epoxy alone to stick to.
 
Does each battery go to each motor? Also do you have both negatives connected ..can you explain why.. I just bought a 2011 seadoo challenger 210sp
 
My boat is a 180 so it only has one motor. Both negatives connected together, each positive goes to the selector switch. I am not splitting up the load into a starting and house battery, keeping it all on one at a time, just will have a spare battery to switch to as needed.
 
I have a 230 with twin engines, I have one battery for the engines and then rerouted all other electrical to house (2nd) battery. With bigger stereo and all the lighting it’s nice not having to worry about power consumption.
 
I bought a rivet nut installation tool. It was extremely difficult to use given the close working quarters and limited access through the hatch, but I managed to get it done. The key was to only use the last part of tools travel where it has the most leverage, and to repeatedly advance the tool onto the rivet and repeat. The fiberglass is not thick, less than 1/8 inch, so not much surface for epoxy alone to stick to.
Ok thanks for the explanation. I figured that it had to be tough to get those rivet nuts into the fiberglass. If you had it to do over, would you have used a different method?? Just curious as I am going to tackle this project soon. Thanks!
 
Ha that's a hard question. Myself, I probably still would because I like the idea of a mechanical attachment not just an adhesive. What I would do is get a different rivet nut tool where the handles come off at a right angle to the axis of the mandrel instead of straight up. I think it would be significantly easier to work in that space, in hindsight, especially since it would only require getting one arm in there. I am going to finish this job up today, I'll post a final picture with cables later.
 
That looks great and professional. Nice work. Appreciate all of the tips and I will probably use the same method you did with the rivets.
 
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