Awesome! It is so nice when it is something simple. Glad we got you back in the water.
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Seadoo SP running weird
- Thread starter KyleW2
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JeremyD615
Well-Known Member
Maybe I’m a pessimist, but I see it less as saving two cases of beer, and more as losing the opportunity to drink two cases of beer! Lol... I’m glad you’re up and running again!
KyleW2
Well-Known Member
Oh don't worry, I won't lose the opportunity....I still have to clean up all the oil spilled in the hull
Hopefully going to lake test it tomorrow. If anything, all the work fixed the oil leak. I'll order another carb rebuild kit if I have to, I'm determined to get this thing moving full speed across the lake again.
KyleW2
Well-Known Member
Been a few months, had some stuff come up and just now looking at this thing again.
Have a list of stuff to do, main stuff being pull the carb and clean it again and drain the fuel.
Whenever it comes to the mylar check valves, I understand the blue mark goes UP. Is this the same on both sides? Meaning the blue marks will be facing opposite ways whenever installed correctly? Just want to make sure that is correct.
I will be rebuilding the carburetor along with putting a new needle/seat in it. I didn't do that last time and I'm thinking that was what caused my issues I had last summer...at least I hope.
For draining the gas, is there an easy way to do it? Not really wanting to pull the tank out, too much of a hassle. On a GSX I had I was able to create a vacuum in the tank which caused the gas to pump out quickly, but for the life of me I cannot remember how the hell I did it. Going to refill with ethanol free gas.
As of January, it had been leak free for several months. At least I did something right!!
Have a list of stuff to do, main stuff being pull the carb and clean it again and drain the fuel.
Whenever it comes to the mylar check valves, I understand the blue mark goes UP. Is this the same on both sides? Meaning the blue marks will be facing opposite ways whenever installed correctly? Just want to make sure that is correct.
I will be rebuilding the carburetor along with putting a new needle/seat in it. I didn't do that last time and I'm thinking that was what caused my issues I had last summer...at least I hope.
For draining the gas, is there an easy way to do it? Not really wanting to pull the tank out, too much of a hassle. On a GSX I had I was able to create a vacuum in the tank which caused the gas to pump out quickly, but for the life of me I cannot remember how the hell I did it. Going to refill with ethanol free gas.
As of January, it had been leak free for several months. At least I did something right!!
KyleW2
Well-Known Member
Thank you.
Pulled off the fuel fill hose from the tank to the hull and the top of the tank at the filler neck is cracked. Wondering if this is part of the reason the ski ran bad.
Was there a recall on this ski? Any way to find it online? I read something about a recall on a tank here last summer.
Pulled off the fuel fill hose from the tank to the hull and the top of the tank at the filler neck is cracked. Wondering if this is part of the reason the ski ran bad.
Was there a recall on this ski? Any way to find it online? I read something about a recall on a tank here last summer.
KyleW2
Well-Known Member
Ran up to a jet sports place today and bought a new spring. Talked to the guy and he gave me a name of the dealer that should help me out on the tank in the area.
He also warned me about my needle/seat and told me to make sure it is OEM Mikuni. The package says WPS, is there any kind of marking on the needle or seat to tell me if it is OEM? When I bought it it was advertised as OEM so I didn't think twice until he made that comment.
He also warned me about my needle/seat and told me to make sure it is OEM Mikuni. The package says WPS, is there any kind of marking on the needle or seat to tell me if it is OEM? When I bought it it was advertised as OEM so I didn't think twice until he made that comment.
KyleW2
Well-Known Member
Just got in contact with BRP and they confirmed there is an open recall for my ski. Going to contact dealerships first thing in the morning about getting a tank ordered/installed.
Working on cleaning the carb and the pulse cover(?)'s gasket is majorly stuck on. I have tried soaking it, scrubbing it, peeling it, just can't get it to give. That said, I put some gouges into it with a razor blade on accident. Does this surface need to be smooth? If so, I will just order a new/used one.
Working on cleaning the carb and the pulse cover(?)'s gasket is majorly stuck on. I have tried soaking it, scrubbing it, peeling it, just can't get it to give. That said, I put some gouges into it with a razor blade on accident. Does this surface need to be smooth? If so, I will just order a new/used one.
KyleW2
Well-Known Member
Went and got a wire brush for the Dremel and it really helped clean off that old gasket and didn't put any more scratches in it.
Carb is cleaned and rebuilt with the exception of testing pop off which I will do tomorrow morning. The spring that was in it was a 115 gram, swapped it to the 95 gram.
I noticed the kit had several o rings in it that weren't used in the carb rebuild thread. Do those o rings go on a different model carburetor or are they replacement o rings for the high/low speed adjusters?
Carb is cleaned and rebuilt with the exception of testing pop off which I will do tomorrow morning. The spring that was in it was a 115 gram, swapped it to the 95 gram.
I noticed the kit had several o rings in it that weren't used in the carb rebuild thread. Do those o rings go on a different model carburetor or are they replacement o rings for the high/low speed adjusters?
KyleW2
Well-Known Member
Per the specs everything is right.
Brand new 95 gram spring confirmed by measuring, brand new 2.0 needle and seat, and wet
By bending the arm I mean less than 1mm as stated in the carb rebuild thread
Took everything out again and flipped the spring over and got 23 for pop off. At least it is in spec now with a straight arm (I bent the old one, not the new one that way I had a backup). Problem now is it is not holding pressure. Is there a good way to test the needle/seat for leaks? Starting to wonder if I got a defective one.
Brand new 95 gram spring confirmed by measuring, brand new 2.0 needle and seat, and wet
By bending the arm I mean less than 1mm as stated in the carb rebuild thread
Took everything out again and flipped the spring over and got 23 for pop off. At least it is in spec now with a straight arm (I bent the old one, not the new one that way I had a backup). Problem now is it is not holding pressure. Is there a good way to test the needle/seat for leaks? Starting to wonder if I got a defective one.
KyleW2
Well-Known Member
False alarm. My pop off tester was leaking
Got a pop off of 24 psi then would hold, also put 10 psi and it stayed at the same level for 30 minutes before I released the pressure. Going to set the high/low speed adjusters to stock since I was having issues last year. Just to confirm, one turn is one full rotation of the T handle correct (meaning the same half of the T handle ends up in the starting position for one full turn)? If that made any sense, just want to make sure I am not turning it too far out.
Also, my local dealership ordered my tank this morning, said it should be in by Friday. He told me I don't need to bring the ski in, just bring the tank in and we will swap.
Got a pop off of 24 psi then would hold, also put 10 psi and it stayed at the same level for 30 minutes before I released the pressure. Going to set the high/low speed adjusters to stock since I was having issues last year. Just to confirm, one turn is one full rotation of the T handle correct (meaning the same half of the T handle ends up in the starting position for one full turn)? If that made any sense, just want to make sure I am not turning it too far out.
Also, my local dealership ordered my tank this morning, said it should be in by Friday. He told me I don't need to bring the ski in, just bring the tank in and we will swap.
KyleW2
Well-Known Member
Picked up the new fuel tank today. Spending tomorrow morning cleaning the hull under the fuel tank while it's out. Clipping the ends off all the fuel lines and putting new clamps on. Ordering a new fuel filter/water separator. I believe we will be ready for the water before long, lake is still pretty cold so it will be about a month or so before I take it out.
KyleW2
Well-Known Member
Fuel tank is in the ski. Reassembling everything today then going to test compression this evening. It was fine last year, so I assume it will be this year too. That said, I know compression numbers should be the same as possible or there is an issue: how far apart is too far? 5%? 10%? More curious than anything.
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