Seadoo Gtx Overheating

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WILLEM

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Hi all

My Seadoo`s computer shuts down if I go full throttle for maybe a minute.
It goes into the limo home mode. If I shut it down and start it again it runs normal for a minute at full throttle and then limp home again.

The computer says it is overheating.

My local dealer has run the diagnostics and the engine log. The operating temperatures were all normal. They dont have a clue what is wrong.

When we are skiing or wakeboarding it is all right, only when the revs get hi it shuts down.

Any help would be apreciated very much


Cheers



Willem
 
Temp sensor?

If the mechanics run the VCK and the log says that it was overheating, but the temps in the log are all good, then my first impression would be the temperature sensor is bad. Below is a copy and paste from another thread I responded to with someone having code problems with their 4-TEC. While reading this post, pay special attention on how to access your "P" codes, scroll through them, write any and all codes down, then answer the post with the codes and I'll do my best to get any and all inforation on them for you. There are two test, you should only need to do the EMS test. I don't think the DESS test is necessary in your case, but by all means, do it if you like to get familar with your diagnostic's on your Doo! Enjoy the read!

The basic codes are, when you connect your lanyard to the post, you'll hear 2 short beeps, this signals that all is o.k. and the engine is ready to start. 1 long beep means you have a bad connection. 4 short beeps mean the ski/boat isn't in neutral. 1 short beep means the ski is now in neutral. A continuous set of beeps means the engine is overheating.

To add to the basic codes for the 4-TEC series engines, if you get 1 short and 1 long, then the ECM, ECU has been set to the onboard diagnostic mode. If you get a 2 second beep in one minute intervals, then you may have high pressure in the oil seperator tank or low fuel. If you get a 2 second beep every 15 minutes, the the water craft is upside down.

There is also a way to diagnose a suspected engine managment or fuel injection related problem in the 4-TEC's. To check and see if there is a message displayed by the "vehicle information center", you can check for fault codes, which will be the letter "P" followed by 4 digits like P1234, by doing the following.
Directions: With the safety lanyard on the post, press the "SET" button 5 times to start the display of P-codes. Press the "MODE" button to scroll codes if there are more than one present till you get to the word "END". When you see the "end" word on the display, press "MODE" to exit this function. You can write down any "P" codes that you get and if your nice, ask the mechanic at your local Seadoo dealer as to the meaning of the code, their not described in the shop manual. Or you can try and find/buy a "Vehicle Communication Kit" that is used by mechanics to check the recorded faults by the ECU, ECM and the MPEM.

In the advanced diagnostic mode for the DESS, do not connect your lanyard. Press the start stop button 5 times. You'll hear 2 audible beeps, one short, one a bit longer. This means your in advanced diagnostic mode. Put your lanyard cap back on. If you hear no further beeps, then your ski/boat is ready to run. Test complete. But if you hear 2 short beeps after putting on the cap, that means your MPEM cannot read the electronic circuit in the safety lanyard.
2 long beeps after connecting the cap means that you are using the wrong safety lanyard. 3 short beep means the harness of the DESS post is grounded or shorted out.

As you can see, the 5 button advanced test is basically there to trouble shoot the DESS in the event you have trouble starting your ski/boat.

I have gone over some of the issues at hand if a PWC (4-TEC) has been turned upside down. This 4-cycle engine with it's closed loop cooling system and the flow of liquids to the internals of this engine can have a definite impact on the ECU and ECM sensors if it is rolled over with the engine running (for either seconds or minutes...I don't know). Is something wrong with the engine? Probably not. There is probably a sensor that is normally hot and dry when the engine is running and when it went upside down, it may have gone from hot and dry to cooler and wet. The thermal shock to the sensor could have knocked it out of serivce, or it's sending out a bad signal.

In your last post, you said you get three beeps before the ski goes into limp mode. Are you sure there are three beeps? Going into limp mode is one of the best designs anyone every invented for an engine. This lets you know there is a major problem and can lead to major mechanical engine failure if it's not taken care of. If you do have a problem and you re-set the code and continue to run until you get the "limp" mode again. Sooner or later, what ever it is will become known to you by an obvious sign (blown super charger for instance), by then, it'll be too late to find the least expensive fix for your Doo.

Sorry for such a long post, but the information on the 4-TEC is extensive. You really need a manual for this engine if your looking to solve a problem or just wanting to learn about the functions, features and safeguards to this engine. We offer these services as a "Premium Member" where you can have complete access to our library of manuals and the one on one service offered. Thanks again for you question and I hope this is of some help!
 
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Hi Seadoosnipe

I ran the tests yesterday.
When I do the EMS test it goes directly to end, no errors.
i tried to do the DESS test, but nothing happens.
I then started the jetski and ran it till it beeped again. On the screen it says hi temp. I pressed the set button 5 times then, still no error codes.

Do you have any ather ideas?

At the moment I have a jetski that can only run at 5500rpm before it cuts out, only good for wakeboarding.

Thanks in advance.

Willem
 
Thermostat?

I don't understand why, if the engine is going down into limp mode or your losing power due to overheating, why it's not showing up as a "P" code in your EMS test.
There is still the possibility of the temp sensor being bad. You can test the sensor if you have a standard multi meter tester. You can get one from Wal Mart if necessary. BTW, if you don't have one, it will be used at some point again as long as you own the 4-TEC engine. Measure the resistance, if it's good, you should be getting a reading of 2280 - 2740 ohms.
There are several things that can cause this overheat display. First, the faulty sensor. Then, I'd be checking to see if your losing coolant. You can do this by looking into your bilge (the weep hole on the coolant pump isn't visibile, I'm sure) or you may see white exhaust gases(this signifies a bad head gasket) which is also a sign of running hot.
There may be damage to your ride plate, which is the heat exchanger to cool your coolant after it circulates through your engine. This should be easy to check. If you see any large dings in the bottom of the plate, you may have enough restriction to flow that will cause the overheat problem.
You can have a faulty thermostat. You can test this by removing the coolant pump and placing it in water, then heating it up. The thermostat starts to open at 188 degrees F. If it's not opening, then you'll have to replace it.
If your engine is truly overheating, then you should be getting the continous beep. If your not and you don't have any codes that the mechanic can find, I'd look at the exhaust gases to determine if your head gasket is bad. A compression test is good, but if it's not bad enough, the gasket may hold the pressure till the engine heats up. When hot enough, the compression gases can mix with the coolant and being exhausted as heavy steam.
In the PWC section under "General Discussion", you'll see a thread called "Seadoo Terminology". Give it a look. The second post is one I made on all the EMS terms and sensors. You may find it interesting.
I'll have to say, that unless you have a manual or become a premium member, there is probably no further assistance I can offer you on this matter. Only because to go any further, you'd have to be able to follow along to the details that only a manual can provide. We do offer the manual in the "Premium Section" of this forum which will give you full access to the manual library among other perks. It will also allow any of the moderators to give you some one on one help to try and diagnose your problem.
Sorry for such a long post but it was necessary to try and cover all the bases for you best I could. Good luck and I hope you solve your problem.
BTW, you don't list the year of your 4-TEC engine, so all the information I've given you is from my 2005 shop manual. The info is generic for the 4-TEC, so regardless of your year model, it should still be applicable.
 
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Thanks for the info. Taking it back to the dealer tomorrow, the owner will look into it this time. Hope this helps.

Thanks again
 
Just a thought.
Overfueling on this one.

What model is this one Willem?

And as Louis said if it gets cooked it will go into limp mode.
Maybe a faulty batch of heat sensors going off similar posts.
 
Overheat

Never looked into this before but isn't there a temp sensor for the exhaust system too?
DAWG
 
Heat sensors....

Correct DAWG.....there are 14 sensors on the 4-TEC that are used by the EMS (engine management system) to interpret and make corrections to the engine as needed. The CTS (cooling temp sensor) and the EGTS (exhaust gas temp sensor) are two of them.
Good point! If your not getting the continuous beep from the DESS for engine high temperature, maybe it's your exhaust gas. Which could be a faulty water regulator. But I'd think that would be recorded in the VCK.
Thanks for the input DAWG........
 
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