Scratches

[benjilafouine]

How do I get rid of those scratches exactly?

I seem to have plenty of time on my hands these days.



Thanks.

Benji.

 

[1of500]

Maybe you can buff them out

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[benjilafouine]

Yes, I know that (like pretty sure of). But how? A fine sanding paper? Which grade? And which compound after? Some guy wanted to charge me 1,000.00$ to do the whole bottom. Figured out I could do it myself as I am very skilled with my cars (but not with fiberglass). I have an orbital buffing machine. Just need to know steps by steps.

Thanks.

Benji.

 

[Spimothy Leary]

i'm sure a smarter guy will chime in but i'd say wet sanding is where i'd start....

1500 maybe ?

I've gone heavier but usually only on white, to get out stains....

then go with some medium cut compound and see if shows results.

or since your so bored, come over to my place, I need a palm tree trimmed down and a couple of hulls taken to the landfill.. thanks in advance.

 

[benjilafouine]

Montreal to Florida is really really a long drive..... Like 24 hours of driving... I will wait for the expert...

Benji.

 

[benjilafouine]

And I can,t really go anywhere farther away from my business by a couple of hours: I am on call from 7 AM to 10 PM 365 days a year... I can be called anytime and have to drive anywhere from 10 miles to 130 miles.. from both my homes. Imagine from Florida!

Benji.

 

[racerxxx]

They don't look all that deep. You could try some 3M heavy duty rubbing compound first. If that doesn't work start out with 300, 500, 1000 and finish with 1200. All should be wet sand paper. Then hit it with the same 3M as I mentioned, then some polishing compound, then some swirl remover if you want then wax.


I don't remember if JSG gets into the wet sanding in this thread or not


http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?57274-Pictorial-On-how-to-buff-your-faded-nasty-hull

 

[benjilafouine]

OK, that sounds like a plan. I am familiar with wet sanding on cars, bought a kit once. I will start with compound first as you say and work my way from 1200 and down until it works so I won't screw it more than it is!

Thanks.

Keep suggestions coming.

Benji.

 

[racerxxx]

It should be pretty thick, you can't really screw up. But, you are opening Pandora's box..................you've been warned. LOL I't gonna be hard to decide where to stop.

 

[benjilafouine]

I am going to test on a very small spot (under the ski where there are some more scratches of the same kind). The expert told me he could make it look like new. So I guess it is feasible... But he would not give me his recipe. Wonder why... But he was talking about a paper grade in the thousands, not in hundreds.

Benji.

 

[racerxxx]

I wouldn't do it for a grand. It's a pain in the you know what job to do the entire bottom, LOL.

 

[1of500]

Just buff it this is experience talking

 

[jts32]

I am going to test on a very small spot (under the ski where there are some more scratches of the same kind). The expert told me he could make it look like new. So I guess it is feasible... But he would not give me his recipe. Wonder why... But he was talking about a paper grade in the thousands, not in hundreds.

Benji.

If the scratches aren't through the gel coat you can get rid of them, but very time consuming. Gel coat sands hard and buffs hard. I would just buff it and see what results you get, you may be satisfied and save yourself a lot of time. If you want to wet sand, I would start with 1000 until the majority of the scratch is gone, step up to 1200 to remove the remainder of the scratch, and finish with 1500 before buffing. Many buffing compounds out there, but I prefer 3M Perfect-it III. Also, random orbital buffers are only good for waxing, they aren't aggressive enough for buffing, especially gel coat.

 

[benjilafouine]

So what buffer should I use? I have a basic Simonize one. I am sure they sell all that at Canadian Tire here.

Benji.

 

[jts32]

This is the one I use for larger areas, should be able to find a similar one cheaper.


This is the one I use for tighter areas.

 

[Kwik_uk]

Be sure to tape off your decals first.

Can't really tell from the picture if they are through the gel or not. Scrub them first with a good cleaner so you can see what you're working on.

I'd probable start with 800-1000 and work up. Get the majority of the scratches out with the wet sanding then move to a medium cut as mentioned above. For that area I'd personally use a 3" backing pad on a rotary cutter. A DA will just cause you more work. On gelcoat with good prep, I'd use Farecla G3 then G10. Check for swirl/hologramming (budget option is a bright single LED torch), then build up the wax.

Don't skip the swirl/hologramming check, or you'll end up with a finish uglier than the scratches.

Bear in mind you've got a dark gelcoat, so you may end up creating an area darker than its surroundings. The gel will inevitably have faded over time.


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[1of500]

This is what you are doing

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[racerxxx]

^ LOL

At least it's not rodamine red.

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[1of500]

^ LOL

At least it's not rodamine red.

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Man that is the worst.

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[benjilafouine]

I wish it was a new carb! Did some testing today with compound. Will take a picture at dusk like yesterday to see if I lost my time.

Benji.

 

[benjilafouine]

Here is the can of worms, 24 hours later. Same camera, same time, same angle. I guess the wax kind of changed the light. I used compound, the heavy one, with arm juice only, then applied wax. This is the result. Definitely better but not perfect. Maybe I should use my electric buffer or use wet sand paper?

Benji.