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RESTO Rotary valve cover
- Thread starter Drake 10
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AKnarrowback
Well-Known Member
It's normal, just about all RV style sea-doos have some evidence of wear on the machined face of the RV cover that touches the RV as it spins. It's not sand, it's lack of lubrication when water is drawn through the intake. There is a spec for how much gap is allowed between the RV and RV cover, too much gap and there can be running and starting problems. The RV cover can be machined smooth and back to spec if there is a problem. Like was said, post a picture.
i wished but ive put it back together and it runs really well but i keep fouling plugs. im afraid it maybe one of the reasons .im gonna tear it back down anyway because im not happy with the compression and thinking about replacing if necessary. im still looking for a cover to purchase but cant seem to find a new one. yes you could feel it with your fingernail for sure. this is my first build and most of the used covers are for two carbs and appear to be made together with the cover and intake as a whole. i find that hard to believe since my intake seperates from the cover . I would assume that a two carb intake would seperate from cover aswell . Seadoo warehouse has it listed but i dont think they sell it because its so ancient . Thanks for responding
AKnarrowback
Well-Known Member
All the RV covers seperate from the intake. You have to be very careful when buying a replacement cover since there are many versions. You want to pull the intake off and look for the numbers that are cast into the RV cover when buying a replacement.
Help with rotary valve - My rotary valve timing is set at 147 degrees so when i went to order a new one i noticed most of the valves i looked at were described as 159 degrees valves . I searched for a 147 until i found one at WSM . it arrived today but to my surprise its not like my other one . Does anyone know if i need a 159 degree for my 1997 GTI 720 single carb ?
I just finished a motor swap on my '97 GSI 717. I didn't take any chances with this rotary valve cover and ordered a core swap from SBT. Take the numbers off the cover and you will get the right fit.
SBT is awesome. They call and confirm your online order to make sure you get the right cover.
SBT is awesome. They call and confirm your online order to make sure you get the right cover.
Attachments
Thanks guys . I did the solder check on my cover and it seems to be within specs. im ordering a new valve now . Cylinders and pistons should be in this week . I"ve already replaced the crank shaft with SBT crank two weeks ago . My build then was just new rings with factory cylinders and pistons that i honed and cleaned up. It ran really well for two days but i kept fouling the plugs especially # 1. My compression was 125psi on the rear and 120 on the front. I know that that really low but i thought it would be sufficient enough til next summer plus my friend assured me that it would increase after the rings seated. The ski eventually just wouldn"t run very well . It ran spuratically that third day so i"m goimg through the top end again hoping that the reason was low compression. I'm shooting for better results this next go around.
This is my first build on any type of engine and i made some mistakes due to plain ignorance. # 1- i never acheived that cross hetch pattern on my cylinders that is required. Maybe it was my hone or it could have been my technique im not sure. # 2-when i set my rotary valve timing i i flipped my valve over because due to it being asymetrical it alligned directly up with my 147 degree mark thus it put the scratches on my valve to the inboard side of my cover opposite of the factory. I'm not real sure how critical it is since they say it can be 5 degrees one way or the other but my valve landed directly on my mark so thats where i put it never thinking about it scratching my crank case. Luckily it did minimal damage thats why im replacing my valve. #3-i didnt bleed my oil pump when i reconnected my oil lines to my engine . I beleive it eventually started pumping but i have no idea how long it had to run before doing so. I was affraid that it may had burnt up the pump by running dry but when i took it apart i attached a drill to it and tested it. ---- Again luckily it seems to be ok. I didnt run it for 3 minutes at 1500 rpm and measure the volume like suggested but it would drip out of both lines around every two seconds. I hope all is good there. #4-i have a friend that built 2 stroke engines at a boat marine here on the Arkansas river and he said to mix 1 part STP in with my 2 stroke engine oil just for the reassembly. He assured me that it thickens up the oil and help it stick to the surface while i'm putting everything back together and he was right it is a very thick substance and i'm sure it helps. I'm just wondering if anyone else has heard of this technique ? I know one thing for sure (when i finally got it started there was blue, black and white smoke everywhere) a passer by might have thought that my shop was on fire ! It fouled both plugs while just idling on the trailer.
I guess that"s about it .... I"ll be awaiting my parts and i will let you guys know how it goes on my second attempt of this money pit ... LOL !!! Any advice would be greatly appreciated on the break in procedure etc.........etc....etc....
I love riding my ski right here only 4 miles from my house on the Ar. river. It is one of the best feelings in the world cruising these creek beds and checking out the wild animals ... Well y"all know what i"m talking about ..
P.S. i still haven"t figured out how to post pictures . I"m illiterate when comes to computers along with alot of other thing as well....
I'm so glad i found this forum . I"m a new member and it"s cool to be able to converse with someone who understands my dilemma ..
Thanks again and where can i get a shirt ??? LOL
This is my first build on any type of engine and i made some mistakes due to plain ignorance. # 1- i never acheived that cross hetch pattern on my cylinders that is required. Maybe it was my hone or it could have been my technique im not sure. # 2-when i set my rotary valve timing i i flipped my valve over because due to it being asymetrical it alligned directly up with my 147 degree mark thus it put the scratches on my valve to the inboard side of my cover opposite of the factory. I'm not real sure how critical it is since they say it can be 5 degrees one way or the other but my valve landed directly on my mark so thats where i put it never thinking about it scratching my crank case. Luckily it did minimal damage thats why im replacing my valve. #3-i didnt bleed my oil pump when i reconnected my oil lines to my engine . I beleive it eventually started pumping but i have no idea how long it had to run before doing so. I was affraid that it may had burnt up the pump by running dry but when i took it apart i attached a drill to it and tested it. ---- Again luckily it seems to be ok. I didnt run it for 3 minutes at 1500 rpm and measure the volume like suggested but it would drip out of both lines around every two seconds. I hope all is good there. #4-i have a friend that built 2 stroke engines at a boat marine here on the Arkansas river and he said to mix 1 part STP in with my 2 stroke engine oil just for the reassembly. He assured me that it thickens up the oil and help it stick to the surface while i'm putting everything back together and he was right it is a very thick substance and i'm sure it helps. I'm just wondering if anyone else has heard of this technique ? I know one thing for sure (when i finally got it started there was blue, black and white smoke everywhere) a passer by might have thought that my shop was on fire ! It fouled both plugs while just idling on the trailer.
I guess that"s about it .... I"ll be awaiting my parts and i will let you guys know how it goes on my second attempt of this money pit ... LOL !!! Any advice would be greatly appreciated on the break in procedure etc.........etc....etc....
I love riding my ski right here only 4 miles from my house on the Ar. river. It is one of the best feelings in the world cruising these creek beds and checking out the wild animals ... Well y"all know what i"m talking about ..
P.S. i still haven"t figured out how to post pictures . I"m illiterate when comes to computers along with alot of other thing as well....
I'm so glad i found this forum . I"m a new member and it"s cool to be able to converse with someone who understands my dilemma ..
Thanks again and where can i get a shirt ??? LOL
Absolutely never STP, you friend has no clue what he’s talking about. Only use the correct API-TC oil.
You can’t just hone and throw in new rings on a worn cylinder. That’s why your compression is still low and it’s not going to get better.
Do it correctly or not at all.
Did you rebuild the carbs and fuel system?
You can’t just hone and throw in new rings on a worn cylinder. That’s why your compression is still low and it’s not going to get better.
Do it correctly or not at all.
Did you rebuild the carbs and fuel system?
oh yes my carb is fine and fuel lines have been replaced as well. Very good i wont use stp next time. I know he has good intentions because he"s an excellent mechanic on boat engines but he"s never messed with a seadoo . I would post pictures of my pistons but its no use now anyhow since i have new ones coming and besides i"m still trying to learn how . I most definately want to do it correct . Do you think i should wipe down all my rubber seals and O rings with oil upon reassembly ?
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