Reviews/Opinions on 98-06 SeaDoo GTXs

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dr00andrew

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4 minutes ago
I am planning on buying a seadoo gtx for the summer this year. I have always wanted a nice 3 seater and these are very popular models, even 98-06ish. I see alot of them out in the water every year

Do you think this is a reliable machine to buy? How difficult is it to source parts for? What types of things should I be looking for when I check one out. Are they notorious for having certain parts break? What sort of maintenance should I do on it before I take it out on the water? I am mechanically inclined and have rebuilt small 2 stroke engines before (motocross) I understand these are much bigger and have multiple cylinders, but if I have a manual, I can figure it out. Let me know what you think. If these models are no good, what would you recommend for a budget of $3000?
 
1998-2001'ish is going to be a 951 2 cylinder 2-stroke Carburetor and they are not known to be the most reliable engines.
2001-2003 GTX was also a 951 2-stroke Direct Injected which is probably the least reliable model.
Then 2003-2020 GTX is the 4-stroke engine which is much more expensive to buy and repair.
The early ones had issues with breaking valves and the supercharged ones need a supercharger rebuild every couple of years.

It all depends on your budget. If you want something inexpensive that you can work on yourself and have reliable fun it's hard to beat the 1996-1997 GTX.
 
1998-2001'ish is going to be a 951 2 cylinder 2-stroke Carburetor and they are not known to be the most reliable engines.
2001-2003 GTX was also a 951 2-stroke Direct Injected which is probably the least reliable model.
Then 2003-2020 GTX is the 4-stroke engine which is much more expensive to buy and repair.
The early ones had issues with breaking valves and the supercharged ones need a supercharger rebuild every couple of years.

It all depends on your budget. If you want something inexpensive that you can work on yourself and have reliable fun it's hard to beat the 1996-1997 GTX.
Cool thanks for the advice. So ill try to avoid 98-03 and go for a 96-97. I dont mind working on things and for the most part 2 strokes are fairly simple. Ill definitely buy a manual too when I pick one up.
I just checked out SBT and they sell remanufactured engines for 895 (standard) and 1200 (premium). Worst case scenario I buy one for 2000 and spend an extra 1500 max on a new engine. 3500 for peace of mind isnt bad.

Also aside from an engine and the impeller shaft/bearing/wear ring, what other expenses could add up quickly?
 
I just checked out SBT and they sell remanufactured engines for 895 (standard) and 1200 (premium). Worst case scenario I buy one for 2000 and spend an extra 1500 max on a new engine. 3500 for peace of mind isnt bad.

Second on the 96'-97' GTX, I bought a 97' GTX for $200 and built it up, my first jet ski. In my signature block, check out the build and costs breakdown you could be faced with after taking the plunge. The 1997 GTX is a great ski...the carbed 787 is a pretty solid engine, 110 hp and it's easy to work on. If you want a large ski, especially taking a passenger along, easy to work on, stick with an early model GTX (787 carb) or GTI (720 carb), preferably stay away from the later 787 RFI and 947 DI skis, they can be expensive and more challenging to maintain.

I went a little overboard on the cosmetics, doing gelcoat work, graphics, mats, seat covers, etc, you can save a bunch if you just focus on just mechanics and reliability. I have about $3K into each ski as they sit, but they're reliable and like new...this will be season 3 with the 97' GTX and season 2 with the 96' GSX.
 
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It all depends on your budget. If you want something inexpensive that you can work on yourself and have reliable fun it's hard to beat the 1996-1997 GTX.

Miki - You sure are talking me out of ever selling our personal 96/97 GTXs. I do like them, they are hella fun and handle GREAT !!

I've been working on a few 787 RFI's and I really like them. Much easier to start over the carb models after they've been sitting and ham fisted riders that flood everything they try to start. :D Very smooth on the throttle. Sweet running machines and not too too expensive to repair.

You can't beat the GRUNT of the 951's though. Not quite a beast but close. I guess I'll find out how reliable they are but as with any of these skis.... reliability boils down to proper maintenance and care. I have a couple of the carb versions and they are much simpler than the DI.

951 DI - Fuel injection is hard to beat when everything is working and smooth throttle response, ease of starting, is fantastic. That said... this ski isn't for everyone. Much more complex system but anyone can learn to repair them and troubleshoot.

4 strokes - I've been researching and as Miki said, way to expensive. Also... they are freakin Boats.

IN all that... don't leave out the fun and sport of cutting up and having a ball on the water. My preference of 3-seaters IS the GTX hull 1996-2002 would be the last one that was the smaller size ( I believe this is so). This hull is a BLAST to ride. If the hull has those little freakin engine out rudder assist paddles (GTIs) on the side.... don't buy it unless Momma is riding it and she isn't a hooligan like my wife. :D :D Good Luck bro !!!
 
So would a 97 GTI be a good reliable ski to purchase? (Engine wise? etemplet isnt a fan of the hulls, but im not an experienced enough rider to notice) There are a few nice ones for sale in my area as well
 

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Yes, the 1997+ GTI's are probably one of the most reliable 2-stroke's that seadoo made.
They have the super reliable 720 engine making 85 Horsepower and the 1997-2001 had the great playful 2nd generation seadoo 3-seater hull.

It's probably one of the best skis for someone starting into Seadoo's and the one above looks really clean.
 
Thank you for all your help. Have a few i will be checking out in the upcoming days. Its either going to be the 97 gti or this 96 gtx. Will keep everyone posted
 

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That GTX looks really clean too.

Most important before you buy is follow the checklist I posted above and check compression on any used ski.
 
In the picture is the rudder assist I am talking about that I don't care for. Pictured is a 2003 GTI RFI. The 1997 GTI you are looking at does not have this feature. In my opinion whatever that is worth... Ha ha the GTX is a better ski. 110hp VS 85hp. Maybe 3-5mph faster top end. That said... it's your money. :D :D I'd suggest riding them both. Good Luck have fun and buy what you want.

GTI rear rudder assist.jpg
 
That GTX looks really clean too.

Most important before you buy is follow the checklist I posted above and check compression on any used ski.
yep i got your checklist hand written down in my notebook. im not even bringing cash to the first check out. just going to go over it and determine if its in good enough shape to buy
 
Okay so I bought a 96 GTX and am pretty excited about it. It checked out well. No cracks in hull, just scratches and scrapes. Seat cover was in great shape, no tears. Jetpump was rebuilt in October 2018 (receipts) new wear ring, bearing impeller and shaft. PTO cover was in good shape, not torn. Engine turned over by hand easily with plugs out. Compression was a hair under 150 in both cylinders. Gray fuel lines were replaced with ones from autoparts store. Owner was aware of the junk grey ones.

here are some pictures, let me know what you think. I printed out an owners/service manual. Any tips you guys have for prepping it to go in the water, let me know. Will take the carbs off and clean them this week. Not in a rush to get it in water, wont go in until memorial day anyways at the earliest
 

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Actually looks really good.

I wouldn’t just “clean” the carbs.

It will be money well spent to just go through the carbs with new Genuine Mikuni parts and know it’s done and correct.

Only other real things to check are clean RAVE valves and water regulator on the water box.
 
Actually looks really good.

I wouldn’t just “clean” the carbs.

It will be money well spent to just go through the carbs with new Genuine Mikuni parts and know it’s done and correct.

Only other real things to check are clean RAVE valves and water regulator on the water box.
I saw in your post that unless they have receipts for carb rebuilds, you might as well do it ( i never asked and he didnt mention). 100$ by the time it goes in the water is nothing, and i still have to order jis screwdrivers anyways. thank you for all your help on this thread, i feel good about my purchase. its going to be almost 3 months till this sees water, so theres no excuse for necessary maintenance to be done before then
 
So would a 97 GTI be a good reliable ski to purchase? (Engine wise? etemplet isnt a fan of the hulls, but im not an experienced enough rider to notice) There are a few nice ones for sale in my area as well
I don't like the engine out steering assist on the GTI. The one you posted didn't have that. Fun hull, ski is a little slower than the GTX. I think I got 47 on the GPS speed check for that model.
 
Looks overall in decent shape. As said above rebuild the carbs with some genuine kits. Attention to detail when you do them, test the pop off, get new needles/seats/springs/arms. It'll pay off. Looks like a primer kit was put on the carbs with the choke plates removed. I can't figure out why people do this, since the stock choke setup works fine.

I'd get a new carbon ring/stainless steel hat, the one in the pic looks very thin or worn. Check to see if it has the oring or c clip. It switched to c clip in later years since the oring can fail, my 97' GTX still had the oring when I got it.

Though it was rebuilt, I'd still pull the jet pump off and check the wear ring and the grommets and orings for the bailers, make sure all that stuff is good. Don't want the hull to fill up with water on the first outing. I tend to not trust people, I'd still drain it and fill with a synthetic 75-90 wt gear oil.

Check the water valve on top the muffler, confirm no tears in the bellow, good spring, etc.

Check all the water lines, passages, orifices for flow, sometimes in unsuspecting places there could be a clog or blockage. I found this to be the case with the one in the exhaust exit, the one where the bottom of the cylinders drain.

As said above, I'd replace the small 3/32" lines for the oil injection and check the pump cable alignment.

Starter may be fine for now, but for extra measure you could rebuild it, there's starter rebuild kits available for $20-$30. Pretty easy to do. Check to see if it's OEM, white with "Denso" on it.

Just post on this thread as you go through it.....
 
So I finally got a chance to tear into this. So far ive taken off the carbs and exhaust manifold. Here are what the pistons look like. I dont know what that mark on the second one is, but i think its just aesthetic. I couldnt feel anything on it.

going to clean power or exhaust valves, rebuild carbs soon and also replace the oil lines and prime them/bleed/align everything properly7C516A8C-C0E1-437E-96E5-721BC305E45A.pngAA1F789B-5FE3-498D-99B3-975659016EE4.png
 
So don’t hate but i made the executive decision to pull the motor from the ski. Why did I do this? I need to replace the oil injection lines and it is much easier to prime them outside the engine. (Etemplet recommended this). I was down in the engine and realized it only takes three engine mounts/exhaust removal/disconnecting all lines attached to engine. While the engine is out I can really get in there and replace anything else i may need to.

I have a manual but any recommendations for re-installing an engine would be greatly appreciated. The most critical thing i have read is properly aligning the shaft into the engine. Again any tips for that are greatly appreciated. The help has been great so far and everyone has been awesome.

Also what are these 3 plates for? I cant quite remember where they came from
 

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Talk about overkill. The only thing you need to remove to do the oil lines is the carbs.

The shims ho under the motor mounts but you didn’t need to remove the entire mounts from the hull. Now it’s going to be even harder to align the engine since you removed the factory shims and didn’t label their location.
 
Took the carbs off to rebuild them. Have a genuine mikuni kit on the way. Here is a perfect example of why you need to go through and check things before you take it out for a ride. Any ideas how this got in there and how would you prevent this from happening again?
 

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It's just moisture from old gas corroding the steel screw.
Always use fresh gas and Sta-Bil Marine fuel stabilizer and keep the tank full to avoid condensation for storage.
 
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