Tonykurtis
New Member
I have a 1996 seadoo speedster and I need to replace the left reverse cable. Is it just a matter of disconnecting one end and sliding it out or is there more to it?
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Reverse cable removal and replacement
- Thread starter Tonykurtis
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Welcome to the seadoo forum Tonykurtis. Yes, you need to disconnect the cable at either end and pull it out as an assembly. The outside plastic coating stays on the cable as an assembled sealed cable. Remove the control assy out too to get to the cable end at the shifter control as well. Spray the ends good with PB Blaster and they should loosen easily. There are 4 screws on the control plate and 4 more under to hole it in place. Usually they strip out and need to be drilled out and the next size threaded and installed. Try PB Blaster on all of the screws and soak them first so the heads won't strip out so easy.
Karl
Karl
Tonykurtis
New Member
reverse cable
Great. Thanks! I have the cable disconnected at both ends and I'm pulling from the control end, but it's being a bear. What is PB blaster? Is that just a spray lube?
Great. Thanks! I have the cable disconnected at both ends and I'm pulling from the control end, but it's being a bear. What is PB blaster? Is that just a spray lube?
Me too!
Tonykurtis and KustomKarl...
I have the same question! I actually joined this site 5 minutes ago for this specific reason. I too, am trying to replace the cable, except its on a 1999 Challenger 1800 w/twin Rotax. I already have it disconnected from the control assembly and disconnected from the reverse gate. But, for the life of me, I can't figure out how to remove/disconnect it from the hull! Do I need a special tool? Is there some "Secret Squirrel" way of doing this? Any help that anyone can offer would be great. I have the shop manual for my boat, but there is absolutely nothing on this subject. Thanks again!
Tonykurtis and KustomKarl...
I have the same question! I actually joined this site 5 minutes ago for this specific reason. I too, am trying to replace the cable, except its on a 1999 Challenger 1800 w/twin Rotax. I already have it disconnected from the control assembly and disconnected from the reverse gate. But, for the life of me, I can't figure out how to remove/disconnect it from the hull! Do I need a special tool? Is there some "Secret Squirrel" way of doing this? Any help that anyone can offer would be great. I have the shop manual for my boat, but there is absolutely nothing on this subject. Thanks again!
Attachments
PB Blaster is the best penetrate since wd-40 but like 1000 times better, quicker.
Here in Florida, Auto Zone sells and Walmart too...like 3bucks a can.
Karl
Tonykurtis
New Member
Well that sucks, because I just ordered the shop manual for that reason...Secret squirrel, that's funny Morroco mole~
Tonykurtis
New Member
Thanks again~ I'll check walmart~
I'm having the same problem. Is there a trick to removing the "half ring" without breaking it? It is the current obstacle on the outside of the transom. Silicone sealer appears to be a potential obstacle on the inside of the transom. Cable break was at the control lever end and I already have it removed. thanks
Reverse Cable Replacement - 2002 Sportster LT
I am trying to replace the reverse gate cable on a 2002 Sportster LT. The cable broke at the control lever end and I already have it out of the hull and accessible, but not yet removed. I am currently unable to free the cable at the transom (water side) and need to know how to remove (open?) the plastic half ring which appears to seal the cable on the outside of the transom. There is also what appears to be a large amount of dried (factory installed?) silicone sealant on the motor side of the transom around the cable. Is there an easy way to remove this without damaging the cable shroud and/or fittings contained within it? Many thanks, ddanner
I am trying to replace the reverse gate cable on a 2002 Sportster LT. The cable broke at the control lever end and I already have it out of the hull and accessible, but not yet removed. I am currently unable to free the cable at the transom (water side) and need to know how to remove (open?) the plastic half ring which appears to seal the cable on the outside of the transom. There is also what appears to be a large amount of dried (factory installed?) silicone sealant on the motor side of the transom around the cable. Is there an easy way to remove this without damaging the cable shroud and/or fittings contained within it? Many thanks, ddanner
ddanner, I'll check my doo and get back to you tomorrow on which way that cable end comes off with out breaking it.
Karl
Karl
Reverse cable half key removal
From what I could find from other postings I apparently need to loosen the jam nut that is on the cable on the motor side of the transom and "then" apparently the half key can be removed. I'm currently struggling with how to back off the jam nut. I've removed all of the old silicone sealant, and can partially turn the jam nut, but so far have not been able to get it to unthread enough to back off. I've even used a bolt cutter to sever the old broken cable a few inches back from the jam nut and tried twisting the remnant cable with vice grips while using an open end wrench on the jam nut. It is in a horribly awkward location to work on and I think I've bruised nearly all of my ribs trying to unthread it. I hope that there is some trick at this point to open the half key, but I suspect I'm going to have to continue struggling with the jam nut inside the hull. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated. I probably won't be trying again until after the Labor Day weekend. Thanks for your response.
ddanner
From what I could find from other postings I apparently need to loosen the jam nut that is on the cable on the motor side of the transom and "then" apparently the half key can be removed. I'm currently struggling with how to back off the jam nut. I've removed all of the old silicone sealant, and can partially turn the jam nut, but so far have not been able to get it to unthread enough to back off. I've even used a bolt cutter to sever the old broken cable a few inches back from the jam nut and tried twisting the remnant cable with vice grips while using an open end wrench on the jam nut. It is in a horribly awkward location to work on and I think I've bruised nearly all of my ribs trying to unthread it. I hope that there is some trick at this point to open the half key, but I suspect I'm going to have to continue struggling with the jam nut inside the hull. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated. I probably won't be trying again until after the Labor Day weekend. Thanks for your response.
ddanner
glenndjackson
New Member
Dear DDanner and all you other lucky fellows,
I am having all the same problems. I am amazed at how much the parts cost. I didn't resort to severing my cable yet to get the jam nut off. I would be very interested in what tool combination you found short & strong enough to remove that nut. I'm no mechanic, but I do this all the time.
I must admit I'm growing concerned at the number of tales I've read here tonight of both engines blowing a few weeks apart. I'm worried I have bought a bad breed of boat.
Also, DDanner, did you these L / R reverse cables any cheaper? I'm trying to drive a Speedster 5894 (dual 717s).
Thank you and best!
Glenn
I am having all the same problems. I am amazed at how much the parts cost. I didn't resort to severing my cable yet to get the jam nut off. I would be very interested in what tool combination you found short & strong enough to remove that nut. I'm no mechanic, but I do this all the time.
I must admit I'm growing concerned at the number of tales I've read here tonight of both engines blowing a few weeks apart. I'm worried I have bought a bad breed of boat.
Also, DDanner, did you these L / R reverse cables any cheaper? I'm trying to drive a Speedster 5894 (dual 717s).
Thank you and best!
Glenn
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