Removing Oil Sender from Oil Tank 97 GSX, and cleaning up the mess.

[Krispy]

Yea, so I am trying to test my oil sender and verify it is bad, my first step in removing the oil tank was to drain 90% of the oil into the hull.

Now that I have an empty tank sitting on the ground, how in the heck do I take the oil switch out of the tank? It looks like it just pulls out but I don't want to force it.

Oh, and what do I do about a bilge full of oil?

 

[kicker]

The sender is just put in with a grommet, the same as the bottom. Just pull it out on a slight angle, it will come. It an off/on type switch, so it is open or closed circuit. Test the switch by tipping it upside down then right side up. When up, it is open. Pointing it down, you should get a reading. Then get a small cup of oil and submerse the white casing, once it fills with oil your reading should change.

Lots of rags for the oil, the some supper clean and water.

 

[Krispy]

Well,

I got the unit out this afternoon. Pulled it out of the tank just as you instructed, thanks.

When checking with the sender out I got an open circuit.

When submersed in oil I get a reading of 9 ohms on my "bad" sender, I have a "good" sender from ebay that gives me a reading of 13 ohms in the same condition.

I don't think my "good" sender is going to fix the problem I had...

 

[kicker]

Actually, what is the problem? Light stays on or doesn't go on? Either way, I think it must be the gauge. Do you have a manual, just dbl check I did give bad advise on the open/close circuit thing.

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[racerxxx]

Save your oil next time. These regularly go for like $7, I have bought them at Harbor for $4 I think. They work great, just drop the one end down the filler neck and transfer into your oil container that the oil came from then you can refill. Use a fine mesh strainer from Bed, Bath and Behind into a funnel when refilling the tank. Ask your wife for a 20% off coupon she has them hidden in her glove box, they all do. You can pick up some funnels at Harbor while your there. I have pumped trans fluid, gear oil, lacquer thinner, gas and diesel through these transfer pumps. I have several and why not they're dirt cheap. I got some of those strainers when we cleaned out a house, they make them really fine mesh too.

http://www.harborfreight.com/multi-use-transfer-pump-66418.html

http://www.bedbathandbeyond.com/sto...trainers-set-of-3/1013280096?Keyword=strainer

 

[68ragtop]

Has Bed Bath & Beyond ever been referenced here before??

Just asking....

 

[Krispy]

Haha, well the oil that I lost was an unknown type from the previous owner . I asked what he used he said "that real expensive stuff, I think it was yamalube" all I know is that it was quite blue.

At any rate it is good to have it out. The problem I was having was low oil indicator on my multifunction gauge.

The manual says that I should see an open circuit with no oil, and when oil was present no more than 2 ohm's resistance.

Both my new and old senders/switches measure way above the upper limit.

9 and 13 ohms.

I am considering just shorting out the light and just keeping an eye on the oil level, but I am sure it will come to bite me in the rear.

Anyone have a sender they can measure to give me another data point? I think they used the same part on all 2 strokes from 95 on...


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[kicker]

 

[Krispy]

Nice. What about in oil? I get different readings when submerged.


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[kicker]

The first pic is as if it is in oil, I am holding it upside down so the float is at the top of the white column, as if the column was full of oil.

The oil doesn't have anything to do with your meter reading, the white column is just there to retain some oil around the float, and fills and drains through the small hole in the bottom. That way when your bouncing around the light doesn't flicker steady. I checked some of my other skis and got reading from .3 to 1.2 (I think my meter reads at a different scale) and they all work.

 

[racerxxx]

Same here Kicker.



Empty

Full

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[kicker]

I am assuming that your light is staying on and it is pissing you off, if that's the case ground the wire going to your gauge and see if it turns off.

 

[Krispy]

Thanks Dan, Kicker.

I will give it another try in the am and post some pics with my meter.

I can't really test on the ski at the moment as I have the mpem pulled out since my fuel baffle needed repairing as well.






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[racerxxx]

Has Bed Bath & Beyond ever been referenced here before??

Just asking....

Lol, I don't think so.

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[Krispy]

Oh, and as for the b^3 as we call it around here, how come my wife can't figure out that the prices are just 20% higher than can be found elsewhere?

Harbor Freight on the other hand...good coupons...


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[Krispy]

Ok, rechecked today. Phantom readings last night, couldn't reproduce 9 and 13 ohms. I am sure it had something to do with my connections on the test leads.

At any rate on to the results

Bad sender, down =open

Bad sender, up= 4.0 ohm (out of spec)

"Good" sender up , .6 ohm (in spec)

Both my 96 and 97 manuals show a closed circuit in oil to have a max resistance of 2 ohms, perhaps my 97 GSX gauge is more picky about that spec than y'all's?




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[Krispy]

So got everything back together, put in a gallon of XPS and re checked the gauge.

Still low on oil!

So pulled the meter out and checked resistance from the oil switch (tested good)

Then I shorted the wires at the plug (on the MPEM/ gauge side) and still no luck.

I then followed those wires to the MPEM connector and was planning on checking continuity between the connectors.

What I found was the cause of all this nonsense:

See that pin, third from the left on the top row? It is pushed in, away from MPEM. It is the blue wire coming from the oil switch. I was able to move that pin to the correct place and reinstall the connector.

All is well now.




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[kicker]

Wow that sucks. At least you were able to find the source.

Good job on the trouble shooting, looks like you have a spare sender now.

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