Removing Broken Headcover Bolts Seadoo 587

[Seadoo Tuner]

Trying to take off headcover from a Seadoo 587 and have broken 3 bolts so far. Don't think the headcover has ever been off so tried heat, cold, penetrating liquid, turning tight slightly then loose slightly back and forth with out luck for removing the hex head bolts. Not expecting any to come out without breaking, but once their all off will it be easier to remove them as the head cover will slide off and they would have some of the bolt sticking out?

 

[burtshaver2021]

See what other ideas you get on here but I would consider grinding the remaining stud smooth and welding a nut on the top. After you have welded the nut on spray some PB blaster or mix up your own ATF and acetone. Then let it cool for a few minutes, the heat from the welding does a pretty good job of breaking the rust seal.

 

[etemplet]

I had quite a few like that. I spent a week once trying all sorts of stuff, letting is soak, heat, impact...I was able to remove (10) the other 2 broke and I had to cut the head cover apart, pry, and beat till I got it off. The holes are filled with salt and oxidized aluminum and that stuff binds to the bolts. The bolts won't come out even if you loosen them they still bind up and break. When I did save them I had to drill every hole to get that crap out of there. Try a few bolts on the mag cover as well and the ones on the exhaust port. If all are corroded and unable to move toss the engine. I'm a machinist by trade, have all the equipment, and I'm really good at it. . I've tried some extravagant wild ideas but sometimes nothing works.

Funny thing is people on this board have told me they've never had trouble getting the bolts out. In South Louisiana, before I buy a ski to restore, I loosen a few head bolts to see if I can get the engine apart. I can even tell you which ones are gonna break or be the most difficult to remove. SES can remove them and I've discussed with Tom how he does it. When I get a really bad engine and can't loosen the bolts I send it to him. He doesn't charge extra but he takes way too long to deliver the completed engine.

 

[Seadoo Tuner]

So it sounds like the head cover is threaded as well and that even with all bolts removed the head cover still won't slide off because the broke bolts that break off level with the head cover are still holding the cover? Was thinking the actual cover is not threaded for the bolts but just the heads below the cover.

 

[burtshaver2021]

Trying to remember, but I don’t think the cylinder cover is threaded itself

 

[mikidymac]

No, the cover is not threaded, only the cylinders.

 

[Seadoo Tuner]

Good to know its not threaded.

All but one screw had the heads break off flush with the head cover. Used heat, cold, penetrating oil, wax, nothing worked. Then tapped slightly with a hammer on the cover where there is an overhang but wouldn't budge. Will try some heat and hammer again to try to get it off.

 

[mikidymac]

Let me rephrase that.
The head cover is not threaded but the head is so if the cover bolts broke off then the shell should still come off. If they broke I assume you have some good corrosion going on so that is what probably has locked it to the bolts.

 

[Seadoo Tuner]

Let me rephrase that.
The head cover is not threaded but the head is so if the cover bolts broke off then the shell should still come off. If they broke I assume you have some good corrosion going on so that is what probably has locked it to the bolts.
View attachment 68276

Got it, and thanks for the pic. Looks like the cap head cover bolts don't thread to far into the head at least

Should I expect the head bolts to break as easily as the smaller cover bolts or do they usually come out easier? I will take my time with removing them. Any tips on removal without breaking is appreciated.

 

[mikidymac]

50/50 shot of them breaking or not.....

 

[Venturian1]

Where heat is applied is critical. I'm no expert, but I've broken a few of these stainless steel bolts off, and they're difficult to extract. Sometimes
seem impossible. Heating the bolt you want to extract is helpful if you just have lock-tite (?) to overcome, but I have the best results by heating the part the bolts thread into. Seems to expand the aluminum and loosen, sometimes. Not heating the bolt at the same time is impossible, but you can keep it to a minimum by more intense heat for a shorter duration. Like heating with an Acetylene/Oxygen torch, and using an impact driver. The kind you strike with a hammer. Having a helper to do one or the other simultaneously helps too. Someone to hold the block still too will help. if you can run the engine to get it hot first seems like it should help, but hey, if its running, why fix it?