Rebuilt Crank from Seadoo - Core Question

[tkarvelis]

I know a lot of guys send their crank to seadoo and buy a rebuilt from them. Do they replace the rods too?

I have a crank that I need to get rebuilt, but the head is frozen on. I cut half the head bolts off since the heads stripped. I tried a 1" cold chisel, and I can not beat the head off. I need to get the cylinders off, so I can remove the rods.

If i knew the rods were not needed for the core, I would cut them, and be done since the engine is shot.

Thoughts???

 

[racerxxx]

On an OEM reman crank the only parts reused are the webs and the PTO stub. Every one I have gotten has had a brand new flywheel stub since there is a seal that rides on it. so yes, it comes with new rods. They charge you a core fee of $200 that you get back, if you deal with your local dealer that might not come into play. All the ones I have bought were thru dealers online. It comes with a 1 year warranty----IF the dealer installs the crank. Basically, you don't get a warranty since you're building the engine. If you're like me, I could care less about a warranty....I know what I'm building and I know the quality.

 

[tkarvelis]

Thanks Racer.

I guess the Saws-all is coming out today. I was hoping to get the jugs off, but it is not happening.

 

[jhjesse]

Sawsall is boring. Get some DET cord and wrap around the top of the Pistons and blow that sucker apart. :thumbsup:

Edit: I forgot: "hold my beer."

 

[tkarvelis]

Cutting through it was a 3 beer jib and 4 blades... I still need to remove the PTO, but that might not happen, and go to BRP with it on. I have tried heat, and a puller with no joy.

 

[racerxxx]

Did you try to remove the PTO before you removed the engine, or did you chase it around the floor?

 

[tkarvelis]

I tried to remove the PTO only after removing the bottom of the case... I don't attempt anything easy

Unfortunately I do not have a big vice to clamp it in either.

 

[racerxxx]

Yep, before you even remove the engine from the hull that's the first thing I take off. I tried the vise, heat, 1" impact gun, worthless. If just shop it off with it and get a used pto.

 

[jhjesse]

Umm...is this a DI engine?

 

[tkarvelis]

Yep. Out of an 02 gtx

 

[jhjesse]

Ok just went through the same thing on my latest DI rebuild. This is a little unorthodox but it worked for me.
I used a wheel puller from harbor freight that has three bolt slots and not prongs. Purchased three good grade 8 alloy m8 bolts from my local ace hardware. I then removed the coupling along with the center bolt. Attached the three slot puller using my purchased bolts then got a good pair of vise grips and clamped down on one the rods. Rotated the fly wheel until the vise grips came against the case, then apply some good pressure with the puller. Got a heat gun and start heating around the shaft to get the red Loctite to let go and appled more pressure with puller and off it came. The key is to heat up the pto and not the shaft. Heat gun will apply heat but not too much that everything gets hot and expands like a torch will do.

Hope this helps. Good luck.

 

[68ragtop]

Ok just went through the same thing on my latest DI rebuild. This is a little unorthodox but it worked for me.
I used a wheel puller from harbor freight that has three bolt slots and not prongs. Purchased three good grade 8 alloy m8 bolts from my local ace hardware. I then removed the coupling along with the center bolt. Attached the three slot puller using my purchased bolts then got a good pair of vise grips and clamped down on one the rods. Rotated the fly wheel until the vise grips came against the case, then apply some good pressure with the puller. Got a heat gun and start heating around the shaft to get the red Loctite to let go and appled more pressure with puller and off it came. The key is to heat up the pto and not the shaft. Heat gun will apply heat but not too much that everything gets hot and expands like a torch will do.

Hope this helps. Good luck.

I have done the same, great advise!

I use an automotive grade harmonic balance puller. They work perfect on then PTO. I slide a grade 8 bolt into the crank end (not threaded, & smaller than the original) then push on that to prevent damage to the crank. On the Mag side I have the oem style puller. When the pullers are tight, sometime a mild whack on the end of the bolt will pop them off.

Don't leave it in a precarious position though. I walked away from one to grab the next size persuader & it "popped" off by itself. Fortunately it only fell to my workbench & was unharmed.

 

[jhjesse]

Harmonic balancer puller, that's the word I was looking for last night when writing my post. Couldn't think of it to save my life. Getting old I guess. Thanks ragtop!

 

[tkarvelis]

Well that is the puller I tried. It was a HF unit, and worked on my 2003 DI engine, but this 02 has been a PIA. I could not remove the head due to corrosion, and broken bolts. The tuned pipe is welded to itself, and is one big pipe... so far the electronics, and the hull are the only parts not going to the scrap yard. Engine is toast, hoping to get the crank off to seadoo for a core...

I am going to get a vice hopefully tonight. The one I have is old, and it broke. It will not hold a #10 bolt to cut it shorter....

 

[tkarvelis]

Got it off. Borrowed a harmonic puller from Advance Auto, and bolted it on, and hit the center bolt with my 1/2" impact driver. One tap with a hammer on the center bolt, and pop off she went......

 

[jhjesse]

Got it off. Borrowed a harmonic puller from Advance Auto, and bolted it on, and hit the center bolt with my 1/2" impact driver. One tap with a hammer on the center bolt, and pop off she went......

Sweet! Glad you got it.