Questions with pitential first ski purchase 1996 GTX

[Petstang]

Questions with potential first ski purchase 1996 GTX

Hi Everyone:

Recently joined and first time poster.

I've been a boat guy for the last 38 years and I'm looking at possibly buying my first ski a 1996 GTX with 125 hours for $1600 with trailer. I know I want a 3 seater and have done enough research to know that this is a pretty reliable model. This fits my budget and I plan on doing my own maintenance. The guy that has it bought it from the original owner (his 70 year old boss). He was going to use it but decided that he doesn't have enough time and wants to sell it. I went to look at it.It looks very good cosmetically. The paperwork checks out ok. Trailer is in good shape, lights work, tires ok. I'm going back a second time to do a compression test and to test ride it. It has not been converted to pre-mix. It had some carb work done by a professional, but not sure it it was a rebuild or just cleaning. There are some grey hoses in there, but I can't tell if they are fuel lines or something else. I'm going to take a second look up through the intake grate and see if i can see the impeller.

So I have a couple of questions:

There is what looks like oil flung uniformly all over the bilge and engine. Not too much, but it needs a good cleaning. Is this normal? Doesn't seem it.

I know it depends on maintenance, but am I looking at a top end rebuild in the near future?

Any other pointers you can give me, I'd appreciate it!

Thanks,

John

 

[96spxpos]

[MENTION=85417]Petstang[/MENTION] , yes, you're doing the right thing by doing a compression test. search "compression test" in the search bar up top on the right, and you'll get the consensus on how to do it right (for example, both plugs out at same time, 1 plug out at a time, full throttle while testing, cold engine vs warm engine, etc)..

Also, don't be shy to come prepared and ask questions:
where the carbs completely rebuilt or were the filters just cleaned?
Has the pump ever been serviced? Has the wear ring been replaced?
any major parts ever replaced? from failure or for preventative purposes?
I say that, because with the older skis, some sellers will use "it has a brand new engine!" as a selling point...so, was it just the top end? entire build? who did it? you or a mechanic? if so, is there warranty/paperwork?

I get it, its 20 years old and not a lot o fmoney... but at $1600, things can get expensive quickly if some major repairs are done.

You are doing the right thing by water testing.. give it a good r-10 minute ride or more if he lets you.. CHECK OUT THE HULL AFTER and see if you took on ANY water.

I'm sure others will chime in..
Good luck and post some pics!

 

[96spxpos]

oh, and the "uniformly" flung oil, it is in a straight line? was there a cover over the PTO? (back side of motor where the driveshaft meets the motor)..
usually what happens is, theres a boot that covers the driveshaft/pto junction and has a zerk fitting. some people OVERPUMP it, and the boot pops, letting a thin amount of grease fling laterally throughout the circumference of the ski.. as long as it STAYS greased before you can replace it, it will be ok, but will need replacing. So, was it oil or grease?

 

[Petstang]

I'd say oil. There was too much to be grease, and was not in a line.

 

[soccerdad]

The bilges inside these skis accumulate a ton of black scum over the years. Most older skis I have seen have it. Splotches of black goo that looks like oil, but is really mostly oil mist and dirt and moss and ....

You can clean that up nicely with Super Clean. The only thing to worry about is if it is in a specific area coming out of the motor. I would not worry about a top end as long as the compression is good. If you are in the 150 range, you are gold. 130 may mean top end soon. Clean the carbs, make sure the lines are replaced, clean or replace the fuel selector, change the pump oil, make sure you are running the correct injection oil, make sure the fuel is fresh. Clean the rave valves. Change the wear ring if it needs it. Then go out and have fun with it before it gets too cold up there! Then read through my Shamu thread when you get a chance. Lots of good misc. information.

Oh, and WELCOME!

 

[Petstang]

Thanks for the advice. Service history might be hard to come by. This seller bought it from the original owner, and didn't use it. So I don't know if he asked any questions before buying it. He works with the original owner and probably thought he could ask questions anytime. I will inquire though.

 

[Petstang]

Thanks for the help. The oil is EXACTLY as you described it. As for the wear ring, from what I read, if there is a clanging or rattling noise at idle or slightly faster, that indicates wear ring problem. Does this sound right?

 

[mikidymac]

Also check the oil. If it is green or blue there is a 99.9% chance it is the wrong oil for a seadoo. You are looking for a dark red or golden brown color.

A bad wear ring has to bee seen from the front looking back into the pump. All seadoos will make the rattling sound at idle and is just the way it is.