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Pump Rebuild

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yorkieshome

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I am rebuilding my pump on a 2008 GTX 155. Book says to use locktite 767 on impeller shaft. Dealer said they used blue locktite. Best i can deterimine they are not the same?? but do not see why blue glue would not work. Anybody know.

And locktite 577 on cone threads. Says it is medium locktite?? I have medium thread glue. But not locktite 577.

Also, exactly what is Jet Ski Bearing Grease. Anything equivalent.

And they list a synthetic grease. I have plenty of high quality marine grade synthetic grease.

All the above lists out at a hundred bucks so where should i actually use what Seadoo is pushing.

When replacing the pump housing, how much of the seals and o rings and such would you replace. Nothing was leaking. housing and impeller just fought a rock and lost.

Thanks
 
What all did you damage? You shouldn't have to rebuild a pump completely just because you sucked up a rock. Synthetic marine grease is good to go for the cone. That's what I use every time and haven't had any issues yet.
 
well it did a number on the impeller housing (vanes broken) and the impeller (pretty blunt at this point). Wear ring surely could be described as worn ring. Actually spun the wear ring. So to replace the impeller housing it allllllllllllll has to come apart and go back together. From the drive shaft to the steering jet assembly.

Additional question if anyone knows. where do i find either the outside diameter of the impeller and/or the tolerance between prop and wear ring?? Want to make sure the guy rebuilds the prop to correct specs.
 
I never can resist the urge to use anti-seize on anything exposed to water, don't typically experience anything coming loose accidentally either. Other guys claim underwater, the anti-seize just washes away and they use nothing. I don't agree completely. So if washing away is your concern(and it could be a valid one) then loc tite blue would be my second choice.
 
I have never been inside one of these and i am no mechanic although i have been forced to so some mechanic work in my lifetime so i kind of understand it. But seadoo comes with all these special numbers and grease and stuff so thought i would ask some people who have done this before.

overlooked question is how much of all those parts would an experienced person actually replace. will the bearing come out undamaged. Oil seals?? o rings??
 
well it did a number on the impeller housing (vanes broken) and the impeller (pretty blunt at this point). Wear ring surely could be described as worn ring. Actually spun the wear ring. So to replace the impeller housing it allllllllllllll has to come apart and go back together. From the drive shaft to the steering jet assembly.

Additional question if anyone knows. where do i find either the outside diameter of the impeller and/or the tolerance between prop and wear ring?? Want to make sure the guy rebuilds the prop to correct specs.

You picked a fight with one pissed off rock!!! I can see why you're replacing the housing now. As far as the impeller to wear ring clearance should be no more than the thickness of a dime. If both the ring and the impeller are within spec when you install it and spin it by hand the impeller should just barely contact the wear ring. By barely I mean BARELY. It should spin free but not really if that makes sense.
 
I have yet to see a bearing in a 4 tec pump go bad that wasn't exposed to water damage. If you're using a used replacement pump housing I'd check for signs that water may have gotten in. If not I wouldn't bother replacing the bearing. Removing and tearing down a pump is easy and takes less than 1/2 hr so if you're doing the work yourself that's no big deal if you have to replace a bearing in the near future.
 
makes sense. you should have been the one to try to remove it. Worked couple hours and then it just fell out. Was going round and round with the impeller. Sort of figure 8 shape. I guess was truly pissed off.
 
thanks. while you are at it how did you press out and back in. i can probably gain access to a press but is there a shade tree way to do it.
 
I have seen that recommendation elsewhere and sort of understand it. my unit is five years old and the "extra" grease in the cone looks just like it did the day it left the factory. So, unless an o ring fails, i am not sure i even understand the need for anything. And if o ring fails and fills it all with water it is not long for this world anyway. Old 2 cycles were a different thing.
 
Same concept but you want the bearing to be oiled or greased, the oil is a better way to make sure it gets all inside and not just pushed into the cone where it does nothing.
 
Old 2 cycles were a different thing.

Yes, so were the old Berkeley Jets, we used to find occasionally the bearing oil would quickly leak out of the housing from a damaged or worn shaft lip seal and instead of repairing the problem correctly as we should have done but couldn't because we were at the river in the middle of nowhere with several days remaining in our weekend, we would resort to filing the oil cavity with grease from a grease gun.

This approach worked just fine.

In fact, the very old outboard lower units were so leak prone, they were filled with grease instead of oil.

I like oil b/c it is not uncommon to find some amount of water in a gearbox or bearing housing but in order to get that water out, it is difficult if the housing is filled with grease as opposed to gear oil, which can easily be drained and blown out with compressed air.

So of course it's your choice, I find no fault with following the factory procedure and in the case of your pump it may be the best approach, but I thought I would explain that grease is actually the old school approach, which was later replaced with oil once it became possible to manufacture a leak-free gear case.
 
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