I have been trouble shooting a ski that will start on the trailer, but not in the water. Reading on the forums (can't find this procedure in the service manual), I have seen a few people testing the crank seals by blocking off the exhaust and intake and then pressure testing the crank via the pulse line to 10 psi to see if it will hold pressure. On my first test I could hear a bubbling noise that was loudest coming out of the jet pump as the pressure dropped, ( I assume the sound is resonating through the pump shft). Test two I got to about 8 psi before the pressure gauge on the oil tank blew off. I blocked off the oil line w/ my finger and tried again, it held 10 psi for about 2 seconds when a loud gurggle and bubbles ran up the oil supply line into the oil tank, I had the oil cap off to prevent the press gauge from popping off again. Anyone know what this means? First test the press bled off fairly slow as I heard a guggling noise coming from the jet pump area? And is it normal for air bubbles to come up through the oil supply lines?
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Pulse line pressure test
- Thread starter bmmeadors
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BTW. This is a 96 SPX. The following maint has already been done, while trying to trouble shoot:
-Replaced fuel lines
-Replaced fuel selector
-Replaced fuel filter bowl o-ring
-Rebuilt Carbs (Pop-off test is 50 psi)
-Replaced Spark Plugs
-Replaced spark plug caps
-Compression test cylinders at 148 and 150 psi
-Removed jet pump and checked bearings
-Cleaned out fuel cell and inpected baffel for cracks
-Pressure tested fuel system
-Sprayed starting fluid around exhaust seal, output shaft, carb seals, and everywhere else on the engine to check for a rise in rpm. (No change)
-Replaced fuel lines
-Replaced fuel selector
-Replaced fuel filter bowl o-ring
-Rebuilt Carbs (Pop-off test is 50 psi)
-Replaced Spark Plugs
-Replaced spark plug caps
-Compression test cylinders at 148 and 150 psi
-Removed jet pump and checked bearings
-Cleaned out fuel cell and inpected baffel for cracks
-Pressure tested fuel system
-Sprayed starting fluid around exhaust seal, output shaft, carb seals, and everywhere else on the engine to check for a rise in rpm. (No change)
Is it not turning over, or just not firing in the water?
Karl
Karl
It turns over fine. Starts right up on the trailer and revs w/ no problem, but if you back it into the water it is hard to start and when you hit the throttle it bogs down. The more you hit the throttle, the more it bogs down. If it dies in the water it will not restart. As soon as you put it on the trailer and pull up far enough to clear the water it will start with a few cranks, and idle perfect.
IDoSeaDoo
Well-Known Member
I had the same problem
I had the exact same issue. What is happening is the air is leaking from your crank case into your rotary-valve gear box chamber. That chamber has oil circulating through it and is sealed off by two inner crank seals. These seals get old, and contract, allowing leaks. I personally don't know how if this is actually a problem as I have two cranks that do it: one which came from an engine that failed due to completely unrelated reasons and another which came in a used engine I bought. The used engine had the exact same problem you're having, and when I blocked off carb/exhaust, it also bubbled up through the oil line.
My approach to solve this problem (which I plan to do this winter) is to buy a re manufactured crankshaft and replace the one inside. You must rebuild the crank to get these seals replaced. Bad thing is you cannot rebuild the crank without some special tools and know-how, and by special I mean expensive puller tools, as well as a press. You can get a reman crank for about $300 if you shop around.
I had the exact same issue. What is happening is the air is leaking from your crank case into your rotary-valve gear box chamber. That chamber has oil circulating through it and is sealed off by two inner crank seals. These seals get old, and contract, allowing leaks. I personally don't know how if this is actually a problem as I have two cranks that do it: one which came from an engine that failed due to completely unrelated reasons and another which came in a used engine I bought. The used engine had the exact same problem you're having, and when I blocked off carb/exhaust, it also bubbled up through the oil line.
My approach to solve this problem (which I plan to do this winter) is to buy a re manufactured crankshaft and replace the one inside. You must rebuild the crank to get these seals replaced. Bad thing is you cannot rebuild the crank without some special tools and know-how, and by special I mean expensive puller tools, as well as a press. You can get a reman crank for about $300 if you shop around.
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