Problems with recently purchased 99 GSX Limited - Newbie advice needed (re: break in)

[Fish1]

A few weeks ago, I purchased a 1999 GSX Limited. The person I purchased it from was a machanic and rebuilt the top end. He told me I'd need to break the Seadoo in before running it normal.

Long story short, I kept having issues while breaking it in. It kept stalling on me. He would give me different suggestions to try (replace spark plugs, add Octane Booster, etc...), but the ski would keep stalling. See thread here for more detail on that process - http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?56079-How-to-drain-gas-from-99-GSX-Ltd&p=287333#post287333

After replacing the gas didn't help, I finally brought it in to a repair place and learned the engine was shot. It had 0 compression in one of the two cylinders (the cylinder closest to the back of the Seadoo).

I let the guy I purchased it from know and to his credit, he was great. He said to bring it back as the top end kit he purchased and installed was still under warranty and he would take care of everything (removing, sending back, installing new). He purchased one of these top end kits from this site: http://www.fullboreonline.com/sea_doo_951_top_end_rebuild_kits.htm

By the time I get the Seadoo back the weather will be colder than I'd like to ride in. I'm not looking forward to breaking it in without the weather being warmer. How important is it that I break the Seadoo in before storing it for the winter? The downside is that I won't know if the ski is running correctly until I test it out next Spring and I'm sure that will be too late for me to do anything about it if it's not running right.

I'd hate to have to take it out for several hours in colder weather, but I assume that's the only way to properly break it in, right? Any suggestions on the best/quickest way to break a Seadoo in while the weather is colder?

 

[CReynoldsMIZ]

Honestly, it shouldnt cause any harm just waiting until spring gets here to break it in. I dont think that the break in procedure is any different in cold weather, but then again ive never ridden in cold weather

 

[Robj]

I hate to say it but this story does not make sense. Zero compression on an engine with a freshly rebuilt top end seems very unlikely. More likely that the engine was not rebuilt to begin with. Hope it gets fixed but I have my doubts. When you pick it up take a compression tester and check the compression before taking it. Both holes should be at around 135 psi.

 

[adamsbj123]

Robj is right.
I hope you didnt pay top dollar for the ski because you are going to need a new engine. Consider the age of the ski it is 13 years old. That engine needs more than a top end, it is well due for a complete rebuild. Just curious how many hours are on the meter?

 

[Spimothy Leary]

full bore has a warranty on top ends ?

 

[JoelKatz]

If you are going to wait to break it in, make absolutely sure that you still have a reasonable amount of warranty left when you break it in. It would be pretty horrible to have it fail during or just after break in and find out that it's out of warranty. Right after major work, an engine is much more likely to fail.

 

[Fish1]

Robj & adamsbj123 -Thanks guys. While scary news, its something I need to know.

Rob - If the compression on both cylinders are about 135psi, would that mean I'm all set and things are good?

Adam - The gauge isn't working at the moment (waiting on a new one), but he guaranteed the total hours were less than 75. I'll verify as soon as I get a new display.



Spimothy leary - That's what he told me. The site claims to warranty what they sell as well.

 

[kwiktsi]

Robj & adamsbj123 -Thanks guys. While scary news, its something I need to know.

Rob - If the compression on both cylinders are about 135psi, would that mean I'm all set and things are good?

Adam - The gauge isn't working at the moment (waiting on a new one), but he guaranteed the total hours were less than 75. I'll verify as soon as I get a new display.



Spimothy leary - That's what he told me. The site claims to warranty what they sell as well.

I'm no Seadoo expert, but to my knowledge, the new gauge will just show however many hours are on that gauge, not your ski. The ski hours are also stored on the MPEM and can be read with the BUDS tool at a dealer/seadoo mechanic. This is only accurate if the MPEM has never been changed as well lol.

 

[adamsbj123]

The issue is the age of the ski. I personally would not spend the time or money installing a new top end on a thirteen year old engine. That is a bandaid tactic used to sell a used ski with a " newly rebuilt engine that just needs to be broken in". You can expect to pay around $1000 for a rebuilt engine exchange. You can get any information needed to remove and install on the Forum.

 

[Fish1]

Thanks for the input Adam!

How can I tell when I get it back from the guy if things are okay or not? Another poster mentioned to check the compression. It should be around 135 psi in each cylinder. If I check the compression and it's okay, does that mean I'm good to go? Or does that just mean the band-aid (replacing the top end) is holding things together for now, but not really fixing the real problem (the engine)?

Outside from checking the compression, is there any easy way for me to check to see if the rest of the engine is in good working condition when I get it back?


Thanks for the help guys! I know VERY little about this stuff!

 

[adamsbj123]

Yes the compression should be around one thirty five in both cylinders. The problem is we dont know why the top end failed in the first place. Was it just worn out or were the carbs adjusted to lean or are the crankshaft seals leaking causing a lean run. Typically on these Rotax engines when the top end is worn out is it time for a complete rebuild especially after thirteen years. Most mechanics dont have the means to rebuild these engines at home. Typically most guys remove and install themselves and ship their engine for rebuild or exchange. SBT is a popular choice for exchanging your engine for a rebuild or if you have more time you can save money and send it to SES and they will rebuild your engine. Both offer a two year warranty. Even if your new top end has good compression I am sure you will be shopping for a complete rebuild soon.

 

[Fish1]

Unfortunately, this makes sense Adam. If the top end failed due to a bigger problem that actually was the cause, replacing the top end doesn't address the real problem. It just puts a "bandaid" (as you put it) over the top of it. So without diagnosing and fixing the real underlying problem with the engine that caused the top end to fail, it will likely happen again soon. Is that about what you're saying?

What would you suggest I do at this point? Should I look to rebuild the engine now while the new top end is still in tact (once it's replaced)? Or would you just break it in the way it is and wait it out for the inevitable to happen. Then deal with the rebuild? Is there any advantage to doing the rebuild now as opposed to waiting until I have no choice (after the top end likely fails again)?

Thanks so much for all the help!

 

[adamsbj123]

It is a matter of preference I suppose. If it will run then you might as well ride it. It wont matter when as far as rebuilding goes. Here in Seattle we barely get 3 months out of the year to ride so I would use the offseason to do any needed repairs as not to waste any of the season.