keegster17
New Member
Does anyone no a good service and parts dealer in Toronto, Ontario? I am on the west side closer to Mississauga. Also what is the average cost to have a 2004 Seadoo GTX winterized?
-
This site contains eBay affiliate links for which Sea-Doo Forum may be compensated.
Parts and winterizing dealer in Toronto, Canada
- Thread starter keegster17
- Start date
- Status
Duane72
Active Member
The cost to winterize the ski is minimal if you do it yourself. The instruction should be in the owners manual and are pretty easy to do, even if not too mechanically inclined. Check them out and see.
I usually get most of my parts online. You can find OEM parts fairly easy.
I usually get most of my parts online. You can find OEM parts fairly easy.
keegster17
New Member
I found that manual not very clear. I had the oil done in May, should I change it out, for the winter? Thanks duane72 for your tips.
Duane72
Active Member
Do a search on here for winterizing. I am sure there are several threads that give the procedures more clearly. I basically change the oil (I like to do this before I store it because oils collect acids and such during use so leaving old oil sit in a motor is not the same as new oil. I can't quote all the science behind it and I won't say I haven't left old oil in them before with no issues, but it's "best" to store with fresh oil in it. Plus you don't have to do it in the spring when you pull out.), fog the cylinders, and I like to run a little marine/RV antifreeze through the exhaust system cooling passages just to be sure if it will sit outside or in sub-freezing temps over the winter.
keegster17
New Member
I will do a search thanks. i probably change the oil as mentioned. Are the oil filters easy to fine or am I required to go to a marine store? I will also read about fogging the cylinders, as I am not sure what that means. Yes I am in canada, so it gets cold here, I am hoping I can get the oil and filter from a store like a Canadian tire or local auto store.
Duane72
Active Member
Fogging is term for lubricating the internal parts of the engine (cylinders & valves). Just before you shut down the engine for the winter, with it running, spray fogging oil (again, BRP sells their own brand but you can buy fogging oil at auto parts stores) into the intake duct of the motor for several seconds then shut down the motor. You can also pull the spark plugs, spray fogging oil into the cylinders and turn the motor over a few cranks to disperse the oil in the cylinders. It's easy to do and protects the motor from dry start up in the spring and corrosion from sitting over the winter.
You can get oil change/maintenance "kits" online that come with the oil, the filter, and the o-rings for the filter housing. Plus they come with a new set of plugs which is nice. Here is an example... http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sea-Doo-PWC...roke-GTX-RXP-RXT-GTI-/190585452691#vi-content Or the same kit less $$... http://www.jmcamper.com/sunshop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=686
Just make sure it covers your model pwc.
keegster17
New Member
awesome Duane72. I guess the only thing I would like to find out if there is someone local in my area I could buy some of this stuff just in case, I want it ASAP.
keegster17
New Member
Sorry one last thing, what do you do with the battery? I looked at the battery and I have no clue how you would even get that sucker out, if required to trickle charge it once in awhile.
Duane72
Active Member
Got to www.sea-doo.com and click on the "locate dealer" tab at the top right of the web page. That should be able to direct you to a local place.
The battery can be "fun" to get out sometimes, but I pull it and put it in the garage or basement on a battery tender (trickle charger with automatic shutoff so it doesn't overcharge) and leave it until time to put it back in. The battery lasts a lot longer if you put it in storage in above freezing temps and keep the charge topped off.
You have to pull the bracket that holds the battery in place (one nut on either side of the battery). You have to maneuver it some but it will come out. Not sure on yours if there are any intake hoses or not, but sometimes you have to take something off to make room depending on engine and model.
Last edited by a moderator:
keegster17
New Member
is there a specific battery tender I require? and is this just recommended for PWC Batteries or can it be used on boat batteries?
Duane72
Active Member
No, battery tender is actually a name brand, but has become a standard term for most of the trickle chargers. You just want one that is automatic (most are) and can be left on the battery. That way you don't have to keep putting it on and off. They are made for most any 12v battery and some do both 12v or 6v batteries. I use mine for lawn mower batteries, motorcycle batteries, etc. too. I would think boat batteries would work well too. They should keep a charge on any 12v battery. If it is not recommended for deep cycle batteries than it should clearly say so.
keegster17
New Member
So what are these actually called? Battery maintenance? And is there a brand I should buy?
Duane72
Active Member
You are looking for a float charger. It means that the charger will bring the battery up to full charge, then shut itself "off" so it doesn't overcharge the battery. Standard trickle chargers often just keep the voltage going to the battery to maintain it. A good float charger will sense when the battery drops under full charge and then kick back in to maintain the battery. One of the best out there is Battery Tender. www.batterytender.com They offer different ones so you can find the one you feel best suits your needs. I have used a generic one from Walmart before though with no bad results.
keegster17
New Member
great thanks. So if i went to walmart, what would best suit my needs and what would it be called? Float charger? and brand name? Sorry for all the questions.
keegster17
New Member
That is the 1.5 amp one? It is $49 in Canada I was looking at that.
Duane72
Active Member
Don't worry about the questions. You just want to get it right. No one can fault you for that. dbdave got you covered. That does sound like the one.
keegster17
New Member
Yeah, welcome to Canada, tack another 13% tax on to that deal. lol.
keegster17
New Member
back tracking a bit, post #6, with regards to Fogging, where is the intake duct located exactly?
Duane72
Active Member
Take the seat off and look below the small storage locker under the steering column. You should see the duct opening.
keegster17
New Member
duane72, so the duct is the small opening just below the small storage locker, when you say storage locker, i assume the little compartment you would store your keys and small things. and this duct has a small amount of suction? so just run unit for a few minutes and spray in the duct, and this will cover everywhere? why not just spray all around the motor, since the seats are off when you do this anyways? I did pick up fogging oil, as well i bought some Seafoam, I noticed the Seafoam was on a old receipt from the previous owners receipts maintenance. Is Seafoam any good for a 4tec. It says it is good for the plugs and fuel. I read briefly and it sounds like mixed reviews. I have fuel Stabilizer as well as i got a package deal fogging oil and fuel stabilizer together, just in case I shouldn't use the Seafoam.
Duane72
Active Member
The duct let the fogging oil get inside the combustion chambers inside the motor, as well as the exhause and intake valve ports, etc. Spraying around the motor on the outside doesn't lubricate the cylinders. While running, just before you shut it down, hold the can in front of the duct and spray for 5 seconds or so. Then just shut down the motor. The directions actually should be on the can of fogging oil too now that I think of it.
keegster17
New Member
Duane72, thanks once again. One last thing that I am not clear on for winterizing is flushing the system with antifreeze. I know where the flush port is to flush and how to connect a hose to it, however how do you add antifreeze and run it throw the system? I have read some use a bilge pump to pump it throw the port. Is there another way if I don't have a pump, can I just poor the antifreeze in to one area rather than flushing throw the port? Also do I use 100% antifreeze?
Duane72
Active Member
I use a generic submersible pump that has a hose fitting on it for a regular garden hose. I submerse it in a 5 gallon bucket of antifreeze and connect the other end to the flush port on the seadoo. Then do the same procedure as when you flush it normal (start the motor, start the flush until you see antifreeze come from the back, shut the pump off then shut off the engine). You don't need much and it is only to prevent what little bit is left in the fresh water system from feezing. Use a non-toxic antifreeze if you can (RV antifreeze or the like) or be sure you can collect it as it comes out of course. Full strength or mixed either one works because it will push out most of the water in the system and just leave the antifreeze anyway. I have used old antifreeze that I pulled out during an antifreeze change before. It works fine. Just like I said be prepared to catch it or know where it's going if it's not non-toxic.
Hope that helps!
- Status
