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painting / repairing

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ripper29

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OK, I'm sure this has been covered many times before, but I'm kind of unsure how to exactly paint my seadoo.

I have painted vehicles before but never a watercraft. I have a dual action sander, a big compressor and guns. I do have some experience at this.

I was told you cannot re gel-coat a seadoo as the gel-coat is baked into the fiberglass or something, so I was told to prime with a fiberglass primer and then paint with a fiberglass paint. Is this correct?

Also i have cracked gel coat at the rear of the seadoo can i fix this with fiberglass resine?

Thanks for any tips, greatly appreciated.
 
Is that typically what people do when they repaint their seadoo's, gel coat everything to be painted on it? ....or just fiberglass primer/paint?
 
ok, so if I do spray gel coat with my gun what size nozzle will i need for the gun? I heard this stuff is much thicker. Also how many coats and is primer needed?
 
Check their web site.
They have helpful articles on how to use their product.
You would not use primer.
Just have to do surface prep.
From what I understand, the new gel coat reactivates the old and bonds to it.
I have only used the patch kit, so I don't know anything about spraying the product.
 
OK, well I found some of the information I was looking for, I'll list it for future searches.

You could use fiberglass resin or a polyester based filler putty. Do not use epoxy. When filling a few "nicks" or scratches in the fiberglass.

You do not need to primer the surface when preppin for gel coat. Sanding with 220-320 and cleaning with acetone should be good.

Regarding the nozzle or tip for spray guns when spraying gel coat: Usually the larger the better. Most standard tips 1.4mm-1.5mm will work fine.

A finished coat should be at least 18-20 mils wet, a total of 3 coats (or less, usually only 1 is needed) depending on if you are changing the color. Gel coat will remain tacky without the use of a surfacing agent, therefore you should apply a surfacing agent in the final coat. Without surfacing agent, you do not need to sand between coats.
 
I see your in Ontario, check this place out: www.gelcoat.ca they are in Ottawa so shipping is at least from Canada.

I ordered their Repair kit yesterday it shipped today so I'm hoping to have it and write a review by the next week or two.
 
ripper29 said:
OK, I'm sure this has been covered many times before, but I'm kind of unsure how to exactly paint my seadoo.

I have painted vehicles before but never a watercraft. I have a dual action sander, a big compressor and guns. I do have some experience at this.

I was told you cannot re gel-coat a seadoo as the gel-coat is baked into the fiberglass or something, so I was told to prime with a fiberglass primer and then paint with a fiberglass paint. Is this correct?

Also i have cracked gel coat at the rear of the seadoo can i fix this with fiberglass resine?

Thanks for any tips, greatly appreciated.
Click to expand...




A fiberglass paint?.....what is that?.....any marine paint will do, I prefer awlgrip.....as far as regelcoat the entire ski...why? does your entire ski need new gel coat....and if not only fix the area(s) the gelcoat needs repaired, then just prep the ski and paint the entire thing with awlgrip....it is a very easy paint to work with and you can spray it as you do a car.....sand down that cracked get coat and use a good filler...adtech 17 is a really good filler if below the waterline there is one that adtech sells for below the water line as well, do that then prep and paint....it aint no big deal, take your time and it will look good......do not over analize things.....check out http://www.awlgrip.com/Pages/home.aspx that will explain everything you need to know. Now if you have stress cracks those will be a little more fun to fix....but I can guide you through that as well. Have any pictures?
 
K great info, I'll check out awlful grip and adtech 17. I don't think I'm going to re gelcoat as its more expensive and a bit more work by the sounds of it. I'm only driving a 95.

I was talkin to a local auto body shop, and he recommended epoxy primer which should stick to the fiberglass plenty. Then base coats then clear. I'm kind of thinkin of just doing it this way.

As for stress cracks, yes I have quite a few of them. I'll try to upload some pics soon for ya.
 
I am going to tell you something right now and hope that you understand....do not base clear that ski....if you dont like gelcoat cracks you will not like what saltwater and sun do to that clearcoat......use awlgrip as it is a one stage very nice paint, it shines right as it is does not require clear, however they do have a awlgrip clear that can be put over it.....do not take it to an auto body shop or it will cost you more then you think...they will use automotive paint on it no matter what they tell you...be carefull......and try to listen to my advice.......I would not have replied to your ad if I did not know what I was talking about....I am here to help
 
OK, so base clear is out of the question, by the sounds of it. I wasn't going to get them to paint it for me, but I like the fact I could pick out colors from a selection right in front of me.

On awfulgrips web site, where exactly do I find the selection of paints? I was hoping to get that brighter green color found on the 95 spx gas caps, or on the "sponsons" (those balances fins on the side of the seadoo).

So, I will not need priming, no clear coating. Prep for this awlfulgrip is just sanding with 220? Dual action? plus all the other small prep things
 
How did this turn out for you? I'm about to undertake the same process and just saw this tread. I would love to try that AWLGRIP but have no local supplier in the Cleveland area. I think I'm gonna just end up re-GelCoating it.
 
650Guy said:
How did this turn out for you? I'm about to undertake the same process and just saw this tread. I would love to try that AWLGRIP but have no local supplier in the Cleveland area. I think I'm gonna just end up re-GelCoating it.
Click to expand...

I have personaly used awlgrip many times, if your gelcoat is ok then don't bother regelcoating, Mek is a pain with gelcoat. Search online and you can buy all the awlgrip products you need, you will need for paint topcoat, converter and spray reducer.

Matter of fact my truck you see in my picture I painted with awlgrip!

If you need any more info just let me know and I will be glad to help you
 
Thats awesome!! Thanks a million! What is the coverage like to estimate how much to purchase. I'm gonna assume the awlgrip site will tell me what I need for Catylist and reducer?

I can just lay awlgrip over the gelcoat once i fix the scratches?
 
OK, I'm gonna ask a dumb question. I'm seeing "Brushing instructions for this Awlgrip. Are they serious? does that come out even remotely OK???
 
650Guy said:
Thats awesome!! Thanks a million! What is the coverage like to estimate how much to purchase. I'm gonna assume the awlgrip site will tell me what I need for Catylist and reducer?

I can just lay awlgrip over the gelcoat once i fix the scratches?
Click to expand...

Correct repair the scratches/gouges, then primer if needed, then select your color top coat, then use
T0001 - Fast Evaporating Reducer
T0002 - Fast Evap.Reducer/Equipment Cleaner
T0003 - Standard Reducer
T0005 - Hot Weather Reducer
T0006 - Standard Epoxy Reducer
T0016 - Reducer for Awlspar Varnish
T0031 - Brushing Reducer
T0073 - Ultra Build Primer Reducer
T0101 - Reducer for Awlstar Gold Label
T0149 - Interior Topcoat Reducer
T0180 - Awlspar High Solids Reducer

Select one of those reducers that fits your needs, I usually use the T1003 here in florida for spray, next select your catylist: g3010 for spray and h3002 for brushing. Topcoat awlgrip mixes 2 parts topcoat to 1 part catylist to 25% reducer I belive on the reducer. Yes you can brush it and it will apply smooth with the correct brushes however you will use much more paint and if you have never brushed with this paint I do not recommened this be your first time on the outside hull. I brushed the entire inside of my hull.
 
Also forgot to mention you will need to use that reducer for cleanup of all equipment acetone will not work, so make sure and buy at least a gallon of the reducer and 1 quart of topcoat will yeild close to 2 quarts when mixed so 1 quart will yeild about 1.5 quarts, 1 pint will yeild close to 2 pints, I myself only buy in gallon or quarts so I always have extra, a pint may work for you.
 
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