OSD "Back to OEM" carb kits

[kenfyoozed]

Ordered one of these kits and it arrived today. I was surprised to see that this kit does not include new check valves that go underneath the valve body assembly. I assumed they were in the kit since this was a rebuild kit. How important are these to replace at this time? I would rather replace everything since I am going to be inside the carbs. My last Mikuni set for my other project came with everything from a different vendor. Going out now to compare these new gaskets to make sure they are the genuine ones. I am a bit suspect now.....

 

[kenfyoozed]

missing parts:
#38- BN34/108-GG Plate,Valve - missing two
#5a-BN34/100 Diaphragm, Damper missing one for the non fuel pump carb.

Maybe I am missing something but unless these parts are not needed then this is definitely not able to brink my carbs back to stock. Guess I will need to order more parts...but I will check with OSD first to confirm.....

 

[etemplet]

Did you look "real good" ?? They are easy to miss. The most difficult one to find is the iddy biddy check valve those goes on the block over the jets. I am very very careful when I open those kits and move stuff around. At one time they used to tape the small parts to the info page. You should have all of those parts in the kit including all the o-rings for the adjusters. The ones I buy do.

 

[The_Doctor]

I would double check because I have ordered this carb kit from OSD and it came with everything (except new needle and seats) which I did buy separately. I was really impressed with their carb rebuild kit.

 

[kenfyoozed]

Did you look "real good" ?? They are easy to miss. The most difficult one to find is the iddy biddy check valve those goes on the block over the jets. I am very very careful when I open those kits and move stuff around. At one time they used to tape the small parts to the info page. You should have all of those parts in the kit including all the o-rings for the adjusters. The ones I buy do.

Thank you so much and I am such an idiot...... I looked over the parts page and there is clearly a green sticky arrow, and I thought it was pointing to certain part. Nope it holding the two valves to the paper. Basically taped on like you said. I could not see them and can still not see them clearly until they flash as they reflect the light. I first looked at all the parts with the overhead light on, and just now saw them once that light was off and my side table light was on. It reflected the light just right! So thanks again.... I just could not fathom that these parts would not be included. Still don't have the other rubber gasket that goes between the big O-shaped ring and the cover, but maybe there isn't supposed to be one. I do have a spare of that from another kit I can use, so I can get these carbs back together as soon as my internal screws arrive.

 

[etemplet]

All gaskets you need should be included. I Have purchased kits where they do not supply the larger o-rings the reason being some people believe the don't need replacing. I'm not touching that argument. LOL Did you find the small small small check valve? be careful it will get away from you.

 

[GGuillot]

Thank you so much and I am such an idiot...... I looked over the parts page and there is clearly a green sticky arrow, and I thought it was pointing to certain part. Nope it holding the two valves to the paper. Basically taped on like you said. I could not see them and can still not see them clearly until they flash as they reflect the light. I first looked at all the parts with the overhead light on, and just now saw them once that light was off and my side table light was on. It reflected the light just right! So thanks again.... I just could not fathom that these parts would not be included. Still don't have the other rubber gasket that goes between the big O-shaped ring and the cover, but maybe there isn't supposed to be one. I do have a spare of that from another kit I can use, so I can get these carbs back together as soon as my internal screws arrive.

Nothing against Nick at OSD, but he pieces together genuine mikuni parts he buys in bulk. Leaving some parts out that he states you don't need. For a slightly higher cost at $136 shipped w/needle seats I've bought the kits unopened as they come from mikuni. The only two vendors I've found that sell the genuine kits are bayareapowersports and OSD.

Again, not to bash on OSD's packaging of bulk assembly kits, just not my preference. But people on here and on the FB forum really push the back to OEM kits from OSD, to the point it seems some are actually getting a commission.

 

[mikidymac]

Nothing against Nick at OSD, but he pieces together genuine mikuni parts he buys in bulk. Leaving some parts out that he states you don't need. For a slightly higher cost at $136 shipped w/needle seats I've bought the kits unopened as they come from mikuni. The only two vendors I've found that sell the genuine kits are bayareapowersports and OSD.

Again, not to bash on OSD's packaging of bulk assembly kits, just not my preference. But people on here and on the FB forum really push the back to OEM kits from OSD, to the point it seems some are actually getting a commission.

No kickbacks from OSD unfortunately.

We push his because they include the 80 gram springs which the boxed ones don’t, they include the correct needle and seats which the boxed ones don’t and they include carb base gaskets that the boxed ones don’t.

I wish he included the needle arm and pin.

The other positive is it’s one stop shopping for people that don’t know what they should order from multiple places and it’s genuine quality parts.

I buy the Mikuni boxed ones from a Yamaha parts guy on another forum for $46 and needles separate because I do a lot of different carbs, not just seadoo.

If I am doing seadoo carbs for someone else I typically just have them order the OSD kits because it’s easier to have them just order the OSD “back to OEM “ because it includes everything I will need especially if the springs are wrong and they almost always are if someone else has been in them and I don’t have to hold their hand to get the parts from multiple places.

 

[kenfyoozed]

what color are the 80 gram springs?

 

[Seadoo Tuner]

what color are the 80 gram springs?

I just bought a needle and seat kit, the 80g included is black.

 

[kenfyoozed]

Thats what I thought but these were silver.... I will double check tomorrow.

 

[Seadoo Tuner]

From the Mikuni website :
Welcome to Mikuni Power - Official Home of Mikuni Carburetor Aftermarket Division

 

[mikidymac]

80 gram are either black or the old ones are dark army green.

If it’s silver it’s the wrong springs.

 

[POPPS]

Just a small point, the silver and dull silver springs are reverse wound.

 

[kenfyoozed]

I apologize, it seems I posted this in the wrong forum and left out some info. This is for a 95 Yamaha wave raider. I realized we may be speaking apples and oranges after i went back over the carb sticky and saw that the pilot circuit had three small holes where as these carbs have only 2. Is there a way to identify the carbs themselves?

 

[kenfyoozed]

got back into the carbs this morning and found that on the pro carb the ring under the arm was not set correctly. Fixed this as well as a good cleaning of everything once more. I tested the popoff and they are very high 60psi on both carbs. 1.5 seats, shiny silver springs..... which mean these springs by the Mikuni chart should have a 32psi popoff. The springs that came out were gold which would be 55psi. I wonder if these are aftermarket springs to match the psi rate of the gold springs. I have no idea what stock springs should be on this yamaha
(Again sorry for posting in wrong section, if one of the moderators could move this that might be best)

 

[mikidymac]

I think the yamaha uses the 95 gram springs.

And yes, the Yamaha only has 2 ports. They are a little bit different and I think the fuel pump diaphragms are cut different also.

 

[kenfyoozed]

Well I tested the springs that were in and they tested the same 55-60psi. Both carbs tested the same so i put them back in and after a bit of tweaking on the idle and choking to get het going she's running now. I am in the process of repairing one side of the double trailer bunks and will take it out along with my GTX for a test ride.

The display isn't working so I don't really know what rpm I am set at for the moment. I plan to just tune it by ear. Tried my timing light for my car but it peaked at 9999. Those displays are crazy expensive! I'll keep a look out for one,but I only really car about is the fuel and rpm. Wished these was a way to just add some aftermarket cheap gauges.

 

[mikidymac]

I know the stock Yamaha had really high pop off so you should be ok.