Opinions on Paint Before I Proceed

[YouCanDooIt]

Hey dudes,
I would like some input on my paint color for the engine I am putting in my XP. I am using Rust-oleum high performance wheel paint. Judging by the cap I was expecting it to be close to the color SBT uses on rebuilds, maybe a little more metallic, well it is..a lot more metallic. I painted the rotary valve cover to see what it looks like. At first I did not like it at all, to me it looked almost cheesy or cheap because it is so shiny. It is starting to grow on me, I'm beginning to like it. It looks good in the shade but in the sun..boy is it shiny. What do you guys think? too much?
Cylinder is SBT color..

 

[sselzer]

Try POR-20 paint.

 

[racerxxx]

If you want very close to the OEM silver you want to use duplicolor HPW 101. It has a little metallic to it and it looks awesome. Some where on here I posted pics of my speedster engines that I shot with the duplicolor. Also you can check my 96 XP thread (in my signature line below) and see the white from duplicolor, it gets a very nice OEM build up.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2

 

[YouCanDooIt]

Try POR-20 paint.

I did not know they made a POR 20, I have seen people use POR 15 on trailers. I am to lazy to get out my paint sprayer and I need a water trap for my compressor, so I'm trying to stick with a rattle can.

If you want very close to the OEM silver you want to use duplicolor HPW 101. It has a little metallic to it and it looks awesome. Some where on here I posted pics of my speedster engines that I shot with the duplicolor. Also you can check my 96 XP thread (in my signature line below) and see the white from duplicolor, it gets a very nice OEM build up.

I have followed your XP thread, and I think I have seen pictures of your speedster engine bay too, it looks great. Ive got a 96 speedster project I will be doing the same with too. Anyhow, Is the HPW 101 a wheel paint? I actually got the idea to use wheel paint from you. The wheel paint I used laid on very nice, and looks great after just a few coats. I was very happy with how well it came out, just not sure about the color. I am considering painting the head and seeing how it looks.

 

[racerxxx]

Yes the HPW 101 is a Wheel paint. It's very durable. I would test the Rustoleum with gas to see how it holds up. To me that is way to chrome like, but the metallic looks nice from what I can see. I even think the SBT silver is too silver if that makes sense. This is just my opinion, in the end, it's your project not mine so do what you like best.

 

[68ragtop]

Im also looking for a durable color match paint. I'm a freak about a detailed engine compartment & want it to hold up against time & mild cleaners. I'll look into the duplicolor HPW 101, I will be putting a seal coat of PPG90LF epoxy primer underneath as most of my engine parts have been media blasted & have no paint at all currently. It would seem like the original color is closer to gray than it is silver.

 

[Luv2Camp]

I also like to go over everything with a clear coat when I am done. On metallic paint, you need to be sure it is really dry first because the clear can cause the metallic to pull together (called mottling) I would play with semi gloss down to a satin and see what you like best. The clear can help hide staining a little. If you have to wipe the paint down without the clear, you are potentially taking some of the color off which can leave marks. With the clear, this is not as pronounced. I may be a little anal though so just my two cents!!!

 

[Matt Braley]

And hit those cylinders with a ball hone before assembly. They are starting to rust up a little.


I like the shiny silver.

 

[68ragtop]

And hit those cylinders with a ball hone before assembly. They are starting to rust up a little.


I like the shiny silver.

I'm guessing this engine has already been on the water. Its from back in April. I resurrected it on my quest for paint info.

I also like to go over everything with a clear coat when I am done. On metallic paint, you need to be sure it is really dry first because the clear can cause the metallic to pull together (called mottling) I would play with semi gloss down to a satin and see what you like best. The clear can help hide staining a little. If you have to wipe the paint down without the clear, you are potentially taking some of the color off which can leave marks. With the clear, this is not as pronounced. I may be a little anal though so just my two cents!!!

I'm actually a long time body guy, so I Have pretty much what I need in the shop. A thinned coat of clear isn't a bad idea with some flattening agent, with exception to not knowing how the base will react. I could have some BC mixed up, but as you know automotive grade paint materials are crazy expensive.
Just what I have in this cabinet & the one not pictured below it is way more money that I paid for this ski Sadly, most of my product goes bad before I get to use it up ......

 

[Luv2Camp]

I'm guessing this engine has already been on the water. Its from back in April. I resurrected it on my quest for paint info.



I'm actually a long time body guy, so I Have pretty much what I need in the shop. A thinned coat of clear isn't a bad idea with some flattening agent, with exception to not knowing how the base will react. I could have some BC mixed up, but as you know automotive grade paint materials are crazy expensive.
Just what I have in this cabinet & the one not pictured below it is way more money that I paid for this ski Sadly, most of my product goes bad before I get to use it up ......

For a small pieces/small engine, there are some spray can clears I would use and still be able to get it to lay out just like my gun.

I see some PPG stuff up there!!! I am also a long time bodyman/painter... I have been out of it for a while but still remember and still do some side stuff... Remember Delseal??? LOL.... I remember delglo, DAU52, etc... Switched to Spies before I got out though due to the color issues was having with PPG. For the house, I was using the Nason line when Dupont bought Nason. Their two part primer was great and their line of clear appeared to be the Chroma repackaged under the Nason label at a "reasonable" price.

Have only shot the water base once and did not like it! Besides by old gravity feeds are not set up for shooting this new stuff! Still have my two tier MAC box filled with all of my Mac and Snap on tools. I have more in tools than I paid for my Hummer H2! LOL...

 

[68ragtop]

Its crazy how that stuff can add up. I never did body/paint for a living, but have restored a lot of cars over the years & some collision work/ builders. I have been using PPG & their entry level Omni line over the past decade. Depends on what I am doing & what product. The OMNI clears & "plus" base coats are very reasonable & spray/cover nice. epoxy primers, not so much..... It took me a long time to convert to a gravity gun. Just had my comfort zone with an older millennium GTI suction cup. For the few times I would spray each year, I didn't want to risk messing up a project. Finally Went to a Devilbiss Plus gravity fed about 8 years ago & its really nice. Can put a lot of material on & atomize it really well, Love it for complete repaints! Not so great for small stuff, but I have a GTI 2000 air cap that I use on it for small stuff. Slows it down a bit.

Remember when you could do a complete auto paint for under $300? Seems the prices are just crazy now days. Not sure if thats because of the EPA, of what? some of these tri color pearls can cost way over $200 to have a quarts worth of coverage. I just don't get it.......

I have not sprayed water base B/C yet. HAven't been forced too yet, so I'll avoid it as long as I can.
But from what I understand I think the only real difference in the guns is the stainless steel parts. I could be wrong on that one tho..... something about water in my cup will always freak me out a bit.... Lol.

 

[68ragtop]

On a side note, its incredible the products that are made now, between the 2K surfacers, polyester primers, easy sand fillers, etc. the days of filling every little scratch & covering it with lacquer based primers are long gone. Thankfully! Getting a car straight & flawless with todays products has become very easy.

Did you ever use those high build primers like DZ3? Get a car all blocked out & finished, & the paint would shrink for the next 3 years.. haha

 

[Luv2Camp]

On a side note, its incredible the products that are made now, between the 2K surfacers, polyester primers, easy sand fillers, etc. the days of filling every little scratch & covering it with lacquer based primers are long gone. Thankfully! Getting a car straight & flawless with todays products has become very easy.

Did you ever use those high build primers like DZ3? Get a car all blocked out & finished, & the paint would shrink for the next 3 years.. haha

Talk about shrinking. There was a body man that knew he was on his way out of the shop and on his last quarter panel repair he carved "F*CK YOU and added the first name of the owner of the shop into the bondo and filled it over with green putty. It was about a week later the customer came back in with the complaint of the phrase appearing on the car