First of all I just want to say ty to all those who gave great advise with my starter issue but I'm having another problem. I got my starter fixed but now it seems like the back cylinder is not getting fuel. I don't think it is a major problem cuz I had it in the water a little over a month ago and it was running just fine before I had the starter issue. I did run it out of gas trying to get it started before I had the starter issue. I would take it to a shop to have it looked at but there is not but one within 100 miles and they r crazy expensive. Any advise would be greatly appreciated
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one cylinder no getting fuel.
- Thread starter richey
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CReynoldsMIZ
Well-Known Member
Gray fuel lines? Have u rebuilt the carbs? Fuel selector?
Yes gray fuel lines no I haven't rebuilt carbs or fuel selector
CReynoldsMIZ
Well-Known Member
There is your problem. Replace fuel lines, clean and/ or rebuild the carbs and replace your fuel selector. Bout willing to guarantee your problem lies within there
As for the fuel selector u mean the knob that selects between fuel off and reserve?
CReynoldsMIZ
Well-Known Member
Yes sir. The fuel lines degrade, and send junk into the carb filters an the fuel selector and lean out the engine starving it for fuel. Replace that stuff and hopefully you should be good to go. Also, check your compression first
Ok will do thank u
CReynoldsMIZ
Well-Known Member
No problem 
Yes, that selector...
Clean it VERY well or simple replace it as it is only 20 bucks. If it runs better on reserve you already have issues...
Lol it doesn't run at all at the moment. Its crazy it ran just fine until the battery jacked up now I can't even get the damn thing to crank
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
Yep, clean the entire fuel system thoroughly and get those gray lines off there. One cylinder turning while dry also means that cylinder isn't being oiled as well, you know, so running it that way for just a short period of time will lunch that end of the motor.
Damn I didn't even think about it not getting oiled I haven't gotten it running running but it has turned over alot trying to get fuel to that side. Hope I haven't done any damage
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
Yeah, I have a pump squirt bottle of premix on my bench for this, and a squeeze bottle of 2 stroke oil. I'm always squirting oil in these motors, the worst thing that can happen is the spark plugs might wet foul and a few mosquitoes might meet an early death. Those roller bearings on the crank and the cylinder walls need oil on them at all times.
Once everything's working then they'll be fine on their own but till then use no ether starting fluid(ether will blow the heads off!) or straight gasoline, these are no-no's these motors need their oil. At idle under normal conditions, there's barely enough oil when everything's working correctly.
This is why it's so important to keep the carbs and fuel system working correctly, along with the oiling system, don't be riding around on a dead/dry cylinder or if it's lean bogging, a quick way to ruin any 2 stroke.
Well if it never starts again I know y lol
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
It doesn't sound like you ran it very long, so just put that cylinder at Dead Bottom and pour a few ounces of oil down the plug hole so it can run down into the crankcase overnight then tomorrow pull out both plugs, crank it over a couple seconds to blow out any extra oil out and check the compression. If they're both blowing the same 140psi or more you're probably in good shape. Good compression is the go signal for doing the fuel system.
I think my ski is junk. The compression on the front cylinder is 90psi and the back is only 60psi. Does this mean it is trash?
CReynoldsMIZ
Well-Known Member
Well that doesn't sound good
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
Your gauge might be junk instead, did you perform the test with a known good battery, both spark plugs removed, throttle full open position and a known good gauge? Cranking speed is important, so if you have some issues remaining for your starter motor or if you didn't do all of these things then the results will be incorrect.
If so, then I tend to believe your engine is in poor shape. I don't recall if it's a rave motor, but if yes then you can get some idea of piston skirt condition by removing rave valves and inspecting side of pistons through the open ports. Gouged piston skirts would seem to confirm inadequate compression, most any engine won't fire if compression is less than 90psi and anything less than 120psi for seadoo engine is considered inadequate.
So please review and make sure you performed compression test correctly and your gauge is working properly.
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I am pretty sure the gauge is good I borrowed it from auto zone but I didn't have both plugs out or the throttle full open. I just cranked it over with the gauge on it
- BiRkS_
Active Member
Re-do the test. Full throttle (i use an elastic or tie strap to hold throttle open) both plugs out, crank until the gauge stops rising, take 3 tests per cylinder and take the reading in the middle.
Also, if you own a seadoo, its highly recommended to own a compression tester. I always check the compression before winterizing (see if there are any winter projects) and in the spring after the first couple runs. Harbor freight has them, and as long as your compression readings are close (within 5 psi) then that is all that matters. (unless it's below 120)
Also, if you own a seadoo, its highly recommended to own a compression tester. I always check the compression before winterizing (see if there are any winter projects) and in the spring after the first couple runs. Harbor freight has them, and as long as your compression readings are close (within 5 psi) then that is all that matters. (unless it's below 120)
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That made it worse 80 on front 40 on rear. I think I am done with it I think i have wasted a lot of money on a hopeless cause
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Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
If you have an air compressor, you might be able to test the gauge to confirm it measures the same pressure as your compressor's gauge. If someone dropped the compression gauge it could be miscalibrated, that happens all the time.
I don't really have a way to test it. I don't have an air compressor
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
40psi difference. Even if the gauge is goofed up this isn't looking good with such a large difference, sorry to say. Is gauge o-ring leaking, any air leak in gauge hose will give incorrect readings too.
No And with it being that far off is probably why I can't get any fuel to the rear cylinder
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