Oil filling crank case

[crazyc123]

Ski sat over winter. Went to start up the other day. Engine hydro locked

full of oil all the way up to almost bottom of carbs (after I removed plugs and got engine to spin over)
Took rotary oil assembly off, full of oil, and then Oil drained out. Installed oil assembly back on, installed carbs, started up burning oil clouds and then ran fine and the oil stopped fogging my whole block. I’m pretty sure this means the inner crank seals are bad. I here of guys:

A. Adding inline oil line shut off ball valves
B. Filling RV area with oil/grease and running pre mix with block off plate
C. splitting case and 518 sealing inner crank seals

as the alternative to replacing crank as my machine runs flawless up until now. And I don’t mind premix at all.

 

[AKnarrowback]

Don't do the grease if the leak filled the cases that full over the winter. That is a big enough leak to require a take down on the motor.

 

[etemplet]

I have an engine that I rebuilt with a used crank. It was my first one. The crank seals are leaking on the rotary valve... perhaps because I didn't use sealant on the perimeter of the seals when I installed them.. Engine condition is this..... If the ski sits for 2 weeks it will lock up on attempting to start. (I 'm not sure how much oil it takes to lock up the engine... but it isn't much) I'm not pulling the engine apart. I simply inserted a 3/8" plastic valve and have no issues at all with the ski. The ski sat over the winter with the valve closed and started right up this spring. Just some smoke is all and the ski doesn't smoke all that bad when running. I'll betI don't loose and engine due to oil issues. Ha ha.I'd suggest that method as it works perfectly for me.

Even if you leave the valve closed... it isn't a catastrophe there is residual oil in the chamber so it doesn't go boom right away. LOL My wife is great at keeping abreast of that and does a great job. Ski runs great and is still faster than mine. LOL Good Luck !!